'37 Cad/LaSalle trans to 59A or 8BA

[expavr]

The attached HAMB thread is a good primer for your rebuild. One Tip: When you drive out the shaft on the cluster gear take care not to lose any of the uncaged needle bearings which support the cluster front and back. When it comes time to reassemble use a heavy grease to hold them in place while driving the shaft back in.

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/t...lshaft.185196/

[Bruce Lancaster]

The HAMB search function is cranky and primitive, but about all you need to do is put in "Lasalle". Use the advanced search just so you can tell it to give you newest results first and perhaps specify that your research term is in the thread title...
Definitel search the parts for sale with newest sort on, as there have been a lot of parts and adapters lately.
There is good tech on the innards and rebuilding, and at least the 2 articles I sent people on converting to torque tube...the good one and the BAAAD one.
Remember that the basic trans case itself is maybe three inches longer than Ford...NO modification is going to get ti into your Ford chassis without shortening the tube.

[super flat]

[QUOTE=91A-77B;1169800]wododie john, if you could retrieve those articles, I'd really appreciate it. By the way, I have a LaS trans that has been converted to an Olds short tailshaft, but that's an open-drive option, which isn't my first choice.
Thanks,
Bll[/QUOTE


I have a 37 lasalle trans that is converted to torque tube and I might trade you if your trans is in good shape. Thanks, Gary

[91A-77B]

Ol' Ron, it's an honor to have you respond to my request. Thanks for your memories. As to synchro in the LaSalle trans, I probably won't be winding it hard, especially past 4k. But I'm sure you'll agree it's a far better trans than Henry offered. Have you any assembly/disassembly info you could share with me?
Thanks, Bill

[super flat]

91A-77B Did you read my post above with your quote in it? I have the trans you need and might trade for yours, Thanks, Gary

[91A-77B]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Also, I se you have a McCulloch s/c. So do I. Is yours water cooled? Mine is not - a '38 model. I'm missing the tensioner spring and generator to head mounting bracket (Mine has pulley drive at rear of blower housing). Would appreciate detail photos of your set-up, as well as any copies of factory shop manual, pic's of blow-ups, etc., as I plan to pull mine down before installing on engine. Thanks! Bill [email protected]. 519.442.1143

[Tom Walker]

Hi 91-A I built my Cad 3 speed, its a strong ol box. One thing I worked out the hard way.. the bearings on the lay (cluster)shaft are loose needle rollers. If you push the shaft out they will go everywhere. The shaft is 1.00" diameter, and spans the length of the box, to outer edges. Find a piece of 25mm tube/bar and cut it the length of the box inner faces. Use this to drive out the shaft, so when it sits completely in the lay shaft, you can lift the shaft out of the box, complete with rollers. My shaft was badly worn, so I made a new one, and replaced the rollers.

I also made 2 new gears of different ratio for the input shaft and its corresponding gear on the layshaft, to speed it up and lessen the gap between 2nd and high.

Let me know if you want any details on the above, cheers Tom.

[HotRodmicky]

Originally Posted by Tom Walker

Hi 91-A I built my Cad 3 speed, its a strong ol box. One thing I worked out the hard way.. the bearings on the lay (cluster)shaft are loose needle rollers. If you push the shaft out they will go everywhere. The shaft is 1.00" diameter, and spans the length of the box, to outer edges. Find a piece of 25mm tube/bar and cut it the length of the box inner faces. Use this to drive out the shaft, so when it sits completely in the lay shaft, you can lift the shaft out of the box, complete with rollers. My shaft was badly worn, so I made a new one, and replaced the rollers.

I also made 2 new gears of different ratio for the input shaft and its corresponding gear on the layshaft, to speed it up and lessen the gap between 2nd and high.

Let me know if you want any details on the above, cheers Tom.

Hi, i would like to hear the details on the gears .
I will use a caddy box in my current build

[HotRodmicky]

If someone makes a ford hogstead to cad lasalle aluminum plate ,i would buy them

[Tom Walker]

Originally Posted by HotRodmicky

Hi, i would like to hear the details on the gears .
I will use a caddy box in my current build

Will do, are we hijacking , 91A?

Do you have the workshop manual spec page? If not I can scan it and send it to you...

[HotRodmicky]

Yes, please
[email protected]

[Bruce Lancaster]

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/t...caster.408427/

I hope that works...old magazine article on fitting torque tube. Basically plug Lasalle bolt holes, cut front of Ford mount to accept OD of lasalle bearing and snap ring, drill Ford bolt circle, have lasalle tail shaft splined for Ford Ujoint.

[Brian King]

Not trying to hijack this thread, but since it died in 2015, I think it's ok.
Trying to put a 37 Cad LaSalle behind a flathead, in a 32 Ford, while retaining the original K member AND a closed drive line. The rough measurements tell me the Cad LaSalle, minus the stock tail shaft, is about 3" too long.
Do I have any hope here? Short of hacking up my K member, I don't see it happening.
Thanks for all your input.

[Ol' Ron]

This was done back in the day the tale shaft was splinted to match the ford U joint and the rear trans retainer was modified to bolt onto the caddy box. then the drive shaft was shortened to fit. All this is unnecessary labor and expense just to insyall a Caddy box behind a Flathead. Much better options. First, get rid of the rear end.

[Bursonaw]

Originally Posted by Brian King

Not trying to hijack this thread, but since it died in 2015, I think it's ok.
Trying to put a 37 Cad LaSalle behind a flathead, in a 32 Ford, while retaining the original K member AND a closed drive line. The rough measurements tell me the Cad LaSalle, minus the stock tail shaft, is about 3" too long.
Do I have any hope here? Short of hacking up my K member, I don't see it happening.
Thanks for all your input.

Your measurements are correct about 3” longer. If you don’t want to mess with the K member you have one other option is to move the engine forward 3”, which has other issues. After doing quite a bit of research on this, there was a shortened input shaft available for this conversion that would make the transmission about 1 1/4” longer. I had searched for any information on shortening an input shaft, but I could not find anything except an old speed catalog that advertised them for sale. I was also able to talk with an old timer that had done the conversion back in the day as a bolt in and he vaguely remembered that’s what was done. You would still have modify your motor mounts to move the engine forward. I had also found that the Offenhauser adapter bell housing is not made for the shortened input shaft. You would need to modify or make a custom bell housing as well as clutch linkage. It is not impossible but certainly requires some engineering thought. I unfortunately learned all this the hard way. I spent a couple years acquiring about 90% of everything needed to do the same conversion, but when I found out that I needed to find or have an input shaft shortened I sold everything at a loss.

Good luck with your project.




Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk