tube shocks on a 32 chassis

[BoxCar Tom]

I would like to use later Ford lower shock brackets (see picture) to mount tube shocks on a 32 rear in a 32 Ford chassis. When the brackets are mounted behind the axle it looks like the shocks will rub against the rear spring. Are the brackets supposed to be mounted in front of the axle? Anyone else used these brackets on a 32? Any help?

Also, I have 3 different length mounting screws, hollow nuts and stand off tubes? Are the different lengths specific left & right or to a certain application or is there some sort of magic mix and match?

Does anyone know where I can get new hardware for these mounts?

Thanks, Enjoy the Holidays!

[RalphM]

I used those for the bottom and some of the Posies upper mounts. They put the shocks right in the middle, no interference.

[Pete]

Clump clump clump clump.....That is me climbing up on a soap box. (which I rarely do)
First, I am not being critical of ANYONE, but when I see a post like this, I cringe.
The job listed can be done by just bolting the right parts together, (assuming you can find them)
BUT, it definitely is not going to look "right". It will work fairly well but not "right". Few chassis parts from a heavy car will work right on a light car. It is an engineering thing.

This job as many others in building or modifying a hot rod requires metal fabrication skills to do right.

If your last name is moneybags, you don't need to read any further.

Building or modifying a car for any purpose will require metal fabrication skills. People will say, "I don't know how to do that or I don't have the tools so i have to farm it out."
That is what makes for a thinner wallet and loss of bragging rights.
Half of hot rodding is building the car, the other half is bragging rights and beer drinking.

What I am getting at is, if you don't know how to do something, find out. There is almost unlimited info about everything on the internet, but probably the best source of info is the public library.
There is still a lot of original info that hasn't been transferred to the internet yet.

There are schools everywhere to learn almost anything…Day schools, night schools..correspondence schools….internet schools ...trade schools etc etc.

Save any excess change you have left over each week and put it in a TOOL fund. After awhile you can afford a torch set and a welder of some kind. BUY GOOD USA MADE TOOLS! and EQUIPMENT.
No Harbor Freight crap.
This is one place you should never skimp.

Now you have the know how and the tools, you can build anything you want at a quarter the price of farming it out. Another BIG advantage you will have over many people now is, you can take in work on the side to help pay for the new quick change and 6 speed transmission you want.

Other skills than metal fab can be picked up as you go along, such as machine work, body work, upholstery, electrical stuff and paint. Eventually you will know it all and will have saved enough left over change to be able to go in in business for yourself. Then you won't have to go to that 8 to 5 punch in at the factory job. You will have weekends off to go cruising or racing in your latest hot rod creation.

Remember, just about anything you can buy for your hot rod, you can build better yourself.

Clump clump clump, I am off my soap box and left the building now.

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by Pete

Clump clump clump clump.....That is me climbing up on a soap box. (which I rarely do)
First, I am not being critical of ANYONE, but when I see a post like this, I cringe.
The job listed can be done by just bolting the right parts together, (assuming you can find them)
BUT, it definitely is not going to look "right". It will work fairly well but not "right". Few chassis parts from a heavy car will work right on a light car. It is an engineering thing.

This job as many others in building or modifying a hot rod requires metal fabrication skills to do right.

If your last name is moneybags, you don't need to read any further.

Building or modifying a car for any purpose will require metal fabrication skills. People will say, "I don't know how to do that or I don't have the tools so i have to farm it out."
That is what makes for a thinner wallet and loss of bragging rights.
Half of hot rodding is building the car, the other half is bragging rights and beer drinking.

What I am getting at is, if you don't know how to do something, find out. There is almost unlimited info about everything on the internet, but probably the best source of info is the public library.
There is still a lot of original info that hasn't been transferred to the internet yet.

There are schools everywhere to learn almost anything…Day schools, night schools..correspondence schools….internet schools ...trade schools etc etc.

Save any excess change you have left over each week and put it in a TOOL fund. After awhile you can afford a torch set and a welder of some kind. BUY GOOD USA MADE TOOLS! and EQUIPMENT.
No Harbor Freight crap.
This is one place you should never skimp.

Now you have the know how and the tools, you can build anything you want at a quarter the price of farming it out. Another BIG advantage you will have over many people now is, you can take in work on the side to help pay for the new quick change and 6 speed transmission you want.

Other skills than metal fab can be picked up as you go along, such as machine work, body work, upholstery, electrical stuff and paint. Eventually you will know it all and will have saved enough left over change to be able to go in in business for yourself. Then you won't have to go to that 8 to 5 punch in at the factory job. You will have weekends off to go cruising or racing in your latest hot rod creation.

Remember, just about anything you can buy for your hot rod, you can build better yourself.

Clump clump clump, I am off my soap box and left the building now.

OR...........you could come here to this great site like Tom did, and ask a couple of very specific, yet reasonable questions. Merry Christmas! DD

[Steve/IL]

Originally Posted by BoxCar Tom

I would like to use later Ford lower shock brackets (see picture) to mount tube shocks on a 32 rear in a 32 Ford chassis. When the brackets are mounted behind the axle it looks like the shocks will rub against the rear spring. Are the brackets supposed to be mounted in front of the axle? Anyone else used these brackets on a 32? Any help?

Also, I have 3 different length mounting screws, hollow nuts and stand off tubes? Are the different lengths specific left & right or to a certain application or is there some sort of magic mix and match?

Does anyone know where I can get new hardware for these mounts?

Thanks, Enjoy the Holidays!

BoxCar,

Do a Search for this tread: Convert 32 to tube shocks with only two new holes. Read all the way through the tread as there are two different ways to make brackets that bolt onto the rear radius rod mounts.

You are right, no clearance for a tube shock on a 32-34 rear end with the later Ford lower shock mounts that you have. Even if there was clearance, the shock angle to mount the top of the shocks to the rear cross member would essentially make the shocks ineffective.

[HOTROD_WILLIE]

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The brackets you have will not work with putting shocks on original 1932 rear end. 1932 rear end flanges are clock different than later rears. There are company that make a universal kit for tube shocks. I made mine from scratch. I have pic if it will help.

I don't understand how Petes comments is helping this guy. The guy is asking simple question. Why the drama?

[Pete]

Originally Posted by HOTROD_WILLIE

The brackets you have will not work with putting shocks on original 1932 rear end. 1932 rear end flanges are clock different than later rears. There are company that make a universal kit for tube shocks. I made mine from scratch. I have pic if it will help.

I don't understand how Petes comments is helping this guy. The guy is asking simple question. Why the drama?

So you made your's from scratch....That was exactly the point.

[BoxCar Tom]

It's going to be a mostly stock chassis except for tube shocks, hydraulic brakes duel exhaust and maybe 16" wheels. If possible I'd like to use these brackets because they are Ford parts and by doing so minimize fabricated parts. Shock mounts are going to have to wait until we assemble the chassis and then we can get a better idea of what we can do. BTW, If I have to the CT1932 Ford mounts as pictured in his 10/01/15 post look like the way to go. Thanks to all for all the input.

Time to open the flue, we'er expecting a guest. Seasons Greetings.

[HOTROD_WILLIE]

Originally Posted by BoxCar Tom

It's going to be a mostly stock chassis except for tube shocks, hydraulic brakes duel exhaust and maybe 16" wheels. If possible I'd like to use these brackets because they are Ford parts and by doing so minimize fabricated parts. Shock mounts are going to have to wait until we assemble the chassis and then we can get a better idea of what we can do. BTW, If I have to the CT1932 Ford mounts as pictured in his 10/01/15 post look like the way to go. Thanks to all for all the input.

Time to open the flue, we'er expecting a guest. Seasons Greetings.

Good luck.

[Andy]

As HOTROD WILLIE says, the Ford parts wil not work because of the 32 rotation of the mounting holes. I could mail you the full size patterns I used for my radius rod mounts. I use rubber cement to attach them to steel and centerpunch and cut the lines. The braces I used are probably not needed but too much is just right. I used Volkswagon shocks. They work fine.

[32phil]

Hi Tom
We did the exact same thing on my Roadster and the 2 door. We just made up a bracket to bolt the bottom of the rear shock to the rear radius rod. A standard upper shock bolt on the front side of rear crossmember. I'll try to post some pictures over the weekend.