Loose valve seat in 53 Meteor 255ci motor

[harry goebel]

Well I thought I had a stuck valve but it turned out to be a loose valve seat in my 255 motor. Unfortunately I keep driving it, thinking it was a sticking valve and keep trying to clear it. I understand that this can be a serious problem. What have you done to correct this problem if you can not merely replace the seat? I want to save this block since it is from Canada and original to my car. I discovered one other thing about the block when I had it out. Back by the port for the oil sending unit, there is one other port that is plugged about a 1 1/2 inchs behind the oil sending port. Do you think I got lucky and it is for a full flow oil filtering system? Need to hear from the people from Canada or any one else that are familiar with those blocks. This is the the truck motor that they used in the Meteor, rated at 120 hp

[Bruce Lancaster]

Your block is set up for the oiling conversion...there was a lengthy discussion of this on here in the last 10 days or so.
Seat...examine all around it very carefully. as sometimes a seat comes loose because of the dreaded bore-to-valve cracking. I hope that's not it. Valve is going to be damaged from closing on the loose seat.
Ford supplied a slightly oversize seat for thus, and if you can find one this might be easy. It could likely be installed by just getting it good and cold with dry ice or something.
I would try Joblot Automotive as a possible source.

[harry goebel]

Do you remember the title of the post, I would like to read the post. Thanks HG

[Bruce Lancaster]

Here's a recent one: http://fordbarn.com/forum/showthread...tary&showall=1

[Ol' Ron]

Harry, The more I think about it, you could install a 1.6 seat and valve. Plenty of room. Did you talk to Walt?

[Karl Wolf]

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Do some good measuring, make sure that most of the machining that holds the seat is round and square... Ford calls for an interfewarance fit of only about .003 or .004... Not a whole lot, by my thinking... Speedway sells seats that are .030 or so oversize... New seats that I have worked with can be cut down on a lathe to fit an existing hole, which is what I would do rather than trying to machine the block to a godzilla oversize... And most shops don't have guide and seat machines suited to the valve-in-block arrangement... Karl

If any one is interested, I made a tool for driving in new seats, from a piece of 3/4" water pipe and a pipe fitting- holds the seat square for a hammer install of the seat... I did 16 seats this way in the 59AB in my A V-8

[JWL]

I had a similar(loose seat) problem in the original engine of my 1940 Ford. It was 3 days before a big tour event with my Regional Group of the EFV8 club. I removed the intake manifold and head. I did some measuring, dressed the O.D. of 2 seat grinding stones to the desired diameters for roughing and finishing the seat ring counterbore. Gently operated the Sioux motor while piloting off the valve guide until each revised stone touched the bottom of the seat counterbore. Measured again and machined the O.D. of a new seat ring to be a press fit into the block. Touched up the seat, ground the valve a few times to get the tappet clearance reasonably close, buttoned it back together and continued driving the car for a couple of years with that old engine.

My block was cracked so I added a "dutchman" screw to my new seat ring but I didn't discuss that, above, because I hope your block is not cracked.

[harry goebel]

Talked to Walt and that is what he suggested. Thanks Ron. HG