new bottom radiator hose leaking

[Clem Clement]

I used WD40 to make the new hose slippery and bend into position. Did I ruin the hose? Use gasket seal or new hose??

[Kube]

Originally Posted by Clem Clement

I used WD40 to make the new hose slippery and bend into position. Did I ruin the hose? Use gasket seal or new hose??

You didn't ruin the hose.
Clem, I use Indian Head Shellac available at NAPA, etc. That stiff has been around for quite literally decades. It was quite common many years ago for repair shops to slather on a bit of this stuff at radiator hose connections. It works my friend - it works. And, at about $2 a bottle, how can ya go wrong?

[fordwife]

Sometimes if you re position the clamp it will stop the leak.

[Clem Clement]

thanks Kube.

Last Monday I graduated from the 36 sessions of Cardio Rehab. I'm trying to get back to all the projects that were stopped in mid summer. I'm feeling much better. I'm into aqua Zumba 3 times a week. Strength exercise every other day and no beeeerz, donuts or scrapple. Dull me.

[nickthebandit]

Be thankful you were able to get the rehab. Some others didn't fair as well.

[Lawrie]

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Wife Carol just got a new aortic valve put in,she firing on all cyls now,
Great times we live in with medical stuff.
Lawrie

[Floyd]

Good hose clamps make a huge difference in sealing rubber hoses to metal outlets. If you want the original looking side screw clamps (they look the best on old cars) then the choices are : 1,NOS /NORS type originals ; 2,your old beat up ones that you painted; or 3, the readily available inexpensive clamps that almost all the vendors sell or 4, the pricey high quality ones made by A &L.
choices 1,2 and 4 will always work. Choice 3 will never work in my opinion. They are way too soft , look cheap and will almost always make a new or good hose leak.
The best choice ,if you don't have NOS available is to go straight to A & L for there properly made, good steel and cad plated ones.
If you are into worm gear type clamps, you are on you own.
My opinion and experience.

[1931 flamingo]

Clem: NO beeeerz?? How about the weeeemen??
Paul in CT Glad you're mending.

[Clem Clement]

Truck is down, Womens went south.15 deg. here tonite

[corvette8n]

Originally Posted by Kube

You didn't ruin the hose.
Clem, I use Indian Head Shellac available at NAPA, etc. That stiff has been around for quite literally decades. It was quite common many years ago for repair shops to slather on a bit of this stuff at radiator hose connections. It works my friend - it works. And, at about $2 a bottle, how can ya go wrong?

+1
I use this stuff all the time, put together all my threaded air hose connections, usually a couple of bottles of this stuff on my workbench.

[A bones]

Originally Posted by Floyd

Good hose clamps make a huge difference in sealing rubber hoses to metal outlets.

The best choice ,if you don't have NOS available is to go straight to A & L for there properly made, good steel and cad plated ones.

If you are into worm gear type clamps, you are on you own.
My opinion and experience.

While not the correct look, the worm style made by Ideal would work. Problem is, like so many other products, all you can find is knock offs.

When you turn the worm tight enough to seal against pressure,,, bingo the clamp just pops off loose. JUNK.

[jimTN]

silicone will work fine and comes apart a lot easier than IH.

[philipswanson]

Never use WD40 with rubber. It is a petroleum product which deteriorates rubber. Use a silicone instead. Double wrapped clamps are best too. And some Aviation Permatex on the water pump flanges.

[lotsagas4u]

Who is this A&L?

[tubman]

This is odd; I have never had a radiator hose leak on me. I would take it apart and check for for a bent spigot or maybe some foreign material stuck on something first.

[1931 flamingo]

A&L is a family business specializing in Model A parts BUT radiator clamps also can be used on our V8's. No web site, phone or fax, I believed closed on Mondays??
Paul in CT

[flatjack9]

I put all my hoses together with Hylomar AF. They don't stick when you try to take them apart.

[Tinker]

Some of the newer hose camps just out right suck. They strip before they tighten. So maybe look at that.


Instead of using a screwdriver use a socket and ratchet. Much tighter. Sometimes you have to repeat as the rubber cycles.

[tubman]

Stock Ford hose clamps had slotted head screws

[Tinker]

If you have those yes. Most are slotted and have a hex head on them too.

[tubman]

I'm with "Floyd" on worm-drive hose clamps.

[Clem Clement]

I'm using some original clamps repainted. I'll study them for defects. The hose is loose so I may have stretched the hose with WD40

[Tinker]

Clem have a friend with popeye arms come by.

[Clem Clement]

I aughta explain. I haunted junk years as a young men. I was a Major in the Air Force before I actually bought a fuse/light bulbs, most screws/bolts/etc. I learned a lot about what goes where. So when the '39 peecup invitee hisself into my life, I promised to do good work at a minimum cost. Thus I have a box of hose clamps, a sack of rubber bumpers. All in good fun!

[petehoovie]

Are the hoses you're using Red Stripe Vintique's?

[Clem Clement]

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Yellow stripe.

It is a straight shot from the bottom of the rad to the water pump. I need to bend/squeeze the hose to get it on.

I'm using uses A12 clamps. I see no reason for the leakage. The hose seems a little loose, so maybe it is wrinkling under the clamp. Could the WD 40 have caused the hose to swell between installing time and tightening time? I'd like to know what I did wrong before I proceed.

[Kube]

Originally Posted by Clem Clement

Yellow stripe.

It is a straight shot from the bottom of the rad to the water pump. I need to bend/squeeze the hose to get it on.

I'm using uses A12 clamps. I see no reason for the leakage. The hose seems a little loose, so maybe it is wrinkling under the clamp. Could the WD 40 have caused the hose to swell between installing time and tightening time? I'd like to know what I did wrong before I proceed.

Clem, I doubt the WD40 caused any issues. You didn't soak the hoses in it - did you?
I tend to boil the hose to make it more pliable and get it in place before it cools off. Also, I'll say it again... INDIAN HEAD SHELLAC. Trust me on this Clem.

[Clem Clement]

Thanks. I'll stop by Fairfax auto tomorrow

[Tinker]

Not sure that is the issue. Never hurts either. It stays semi liquid for removable.

Always should have some indian head shellac on the shelf while it's available. It is really the first peramtex. It is fuel resistant also.




.

[Clem Clement]

I bought some. I will report. Thanks

[Kube]

Originally Posted by Tinker

Not sure that is the issue. Never hurts either. It stays semi liquid for removable.

Always should have some indian head shellac on the shelf while it's available. It is really the first peramtex. It is fuel resistant also.




.

The "first permatex"... I like that

[rockfla]

Originally Posted by Kube

Clem, I doubt the WD40 caused any issues. You didn't soak the hoses in it - did you?
I tend to boil the hose to make it more pliable and get it in place before it cools off. Also, I'll say it again... INDIAN HEAD SHELLAC. Trust me on this Clem.

Kube
Do you use it on ALL the hose ends on your cars or JUST one that doesn't seem to want seal??? I have the uppers off the Merc as we speak and have one lower (radiator side) that just doesn't want to stop dripping so stopping today for a bottle.

[Kube]

Originally Posted by rockfla

Kube
Do you use it on ALL the hose ends on your cars or JUST one that doesn't seem to want seal??? I have the uppers off the Merc as we speak and have one lower (radiator side) that just doesn't want to stop dripping so stopping today for a bottle.

I use it as a matter of course on all hoses. Removing a hose later is easy.
Especially with fresh restorations, I dread the thought of anything leaking.

[rockfla]

Originally Posted by Kube

I use it as a matter of course on all hoses. Removing a hose later is easy.
Especially with fresh restorations, I dread the thought of anything leaking.

Thank you Sir!!! My job tonight!!

[petehoovie]

What to look for >

[Clem Clement]

YAHOO. Thanks all. Great friends of Fordbarn!!

Let me tell the rest of the story: A few years back a couple of clubbers got a call that a free '38 dump truck needed to be stripped of goodies and removed. They got the dash and lots of parts(No fun as the truck was buried in the sticker-bushes.) I was asked what I was asked and the answer was the big generator and the fan should. Yes the Model A started with shrouds and apparently the working flatheads has one as well. I got cleaned up, straightened and painted and waited for another day. My middle son visited during my heart procedure last fall and offered to fix something. Weeehoooo. Turns out the repo radiator was previously installed leaning backward Guesses were that longer upper hoses were too short or the top brace rods were too short. Anyway lots of air went around the radiator, not thru. I could not do any work to the happiness of son Joe and he moved the rad to near vertical. Rad duct tape finished it off. We also had to replace the hoses as the hose fitting area for the heater was bad.
Oh, did I mention that I had two uuuugly horns under the front end. One had been on my 41 Ford coupe as a youngster. That sucker is loud and more than once it fooled a big trucker thinking I was a big truck. Thus there is relays, horn wire etc. near the bottom on driver's side.

I slopped the Indianhead shellac on the radiator open ends and tried to set the clamps. The original problem showed itself. The clamp bolt was the longest I could find. it caught in the clamp allowing the nut to be outside the holding tab. Thus the nut would spin and not tighten (it did bind in the threads rubbing the clamp edge.

Fixing that and things tightened up. Water in probably tomorrow.

[Clem Clement]

Tears...Water leak. Resealed it. I may have to clean that mess about and use a hose boiled in water first….

[Kube]

Originally Posted by Clem Clement

Tears...Water leak. Resealed it. I may have to clean that mess about and use a hose boiled in water first….

Clem, I'm not being a wise guy but did you follow the directions on the bottle? They are important with this stuff.
Coat both the radiator outlet and hose inlet. Let it get quite tacky before assembling. If the radiator outlet is round, there's no reason you should have a leak after doing as instructed.

[Clem Clement]

I tried. I slid the hose back and forth and rotated it several times. Does gas cut the shellac? does that make sense? If I remove the hose I would need to cut it off. If I pull hard I don't know if the radiator can stand the yanking pressure.
I have added a galloon water and no leak so far. It has a low pressure cap for the rad

[Kube]

Originally Posted by Clem Clement

I tried. I slid the hose back and forth and rotated it several times. Does gas cut the shellac?

I don't think so. However, a new coating should soften what's already been applied.

[38bill]

I believe alcohol should be the solvent for shellac.

[G.M.]

Originally Posted by Kube

You didn't ruin the hose.
Clem, I use Indian Head Shellac available at NAPA, etc. That stiff has been around for quite literally decades. It was quite common many years ago for repair shops to slather on a bit of this stuff at radiator hose connections. It works my friend - it works. And, at about $2 a bottle, how can ya go wrong?

I have used Indian Head Shellac since I was 15 years old. I
think the trick is to paint the inside of the hose and the pump
and radiator fittings and let it setup until it gets real sticky.
This way the hose don't wipe the Indian head off the fitting
as it pushed on. To remove old hoses that were put on with
Indian Head heat with an electric heat gun. The heat softens
the old Indian Head cement. G.M.

[Clem Clement]

All good thoughts...particularly about the alcohol(in Me). I slopped the Indian head shellac on both end of the metal that was showing past the hose. Rotated/slid the hose in two directions. Stuff was still wet and I bet as you say, I wiped it off in the process. Anyway it still leaks. I tried some gas on the goo and it cut right thru the shellac. Contact cleaner did not. Maybe carb cleaner will. I agree that I need to redo the whole thing. I have extra hose and will heat it well so I can bend it in the middle and slip it on the pipes. I'll let the goo on the pipes stiffen first.
I will win this fight...

[Clem Clement]

bad hose is off and fittings cleaned. Next step is cut the new hose to the right length, heat it and assemble

[aussie merc]

hose clamps you get what you pay for if you buy a 50 cent clamp then thats what you get you pay for premium clamps and you get premium performance best ones ive come across here are only avalible thru Mercedies benz [ genuine item trademarked] They cost but work and are close to unbreakable

[swanwaco32]

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I have had some leaks before at that area and it ended up being the black water pump gaskets that came with the pumps. It wicks thru the gasket and I thought was the hose leaking.

[Clem Clement]

I cut the new hose a bit long and soaked it in hot water. I squooze it into position but the hose was too long and collapse and stiffened. I tried wet wash clothes microwaved but to no avail. I will have to cut the new hose out.
Getting new hose tomorrow.

[JSeery]

Originally Posted by Clem Clement

I cut the new hose a bit long and soaked it in hot water. I squooze it into position but the hose was too long and collapse and stiffened. I tried wet wash clothes microwaved but to no avail. I will have to cut the new hose out. Getting new hose tomorrow.

Not totally sure what part of the hose you heated up in the hot water, but I would defiantly only heat the end that goes over the fitting. The term soaked is also interesting, you should only have to place say 2 inches of the end of the hose in some hot water for a few seconds (maybe 5 to 10 seconds). This has always worked for me. If the whole hose is "soaked" in hot water I would think it would become very difficult to work with. Also, you need to be a bit gentle on the radiator end, the water pump end you can manhandle a bit.

[3twinridges]

I had a leak on a 226 hose that I kept chasing. It ended up being a hairline crack in the outlet. Not saying that is what you have, just the possibility.

JB

[richard crow]

get a good clamp.. if you you use indian shellac on the rad hoses & a few mounts you need to replace a water pump or fix a rad leak you will find out why they call it shellac because you will be getting a shellacing taking the hose off.why should a sealer be needed on a soft hose get a good clamp. every day in our shop will deal with all this sealer crap mech. use on gaskets that don,t need sealers. especaly that rtv stuff

[jimvette59]

Wow so much angst over a hose. I have only used #2 Permatex on gaskets and hoses for over fifty years and it never failed. JMHO

[tubman]

I'm with "3twinridges". I think there may be something else going on here.

[Clem Clement]

new hose home. Nappy time

[Zeke3]

Nap time! Clem, don't leave us hanging, did it fix the leak?

[Clem Clement]

it will, I hope. This is a piece-meal project hopefully nearing completion.

[Clem Clement]

Nope: Failed
I heated the hose and slathered both ends at pipe with shellac. I got the pump end on and fully in. I could not get the other end over the radiator pipe. I tried all the tricks I know. Then it was dinner time and Momma was upset with me as the thermal status of her mighty fine dinner (I left the open end open as I worry about forcing the hose over the rad.end and breaking the solder loose.) Today I tried to remove the hose to no avail. I have 2 horns nearby that get in the way.

My plan is to cut the new hose off and use gas to remove the shellac. Then rest this project. I don't know why the shorter hose with plenty of shellac still leaked. Thanks for all the good advice.

I might remove the rad. and start all over with the assembling process.

[shew01]

Originally Posted by flatjack9

I put all my hoses together with Hylomar AF. They don't stick when you try to take them apart.

What is the difference between Hylomar AF and Hylomar Blue? Does one work better on water hoses than the other?

[Clem Clement]

Tomorrow I heat the hose with wet towels from the microwave. Tap hot water not enough heat

[tubman]

Clem, I gotta say it again. There must be something else wrong. Clean everything up and take a closer look. I have put some hoses on some pretty crappy radiator spigots and NEVER had this kind of trouble.

[rockfla]

Okay "Kube"(and others)



I shellacked "ALL" my hoses, rads, heater hoses and all BUT the two at the head are nice and sealed. The two on the head are "STILL" leaking. I applied the Indian Head on both the hose and outlet and waited at least an hour before I installed them. NOT sure if it is "temperature" sensitive but it was about 58 to 60 and it was "tacky" when I installed the hose. Then it sat for at least 24 hours before I added any coolant. SO, I went ahead and cranked the car to see IF maybe getting it warm "might" help with the sealing process and as it got warm it started 'Leaking worse" and the more I tightened the clamp the worse it seemed to get. Did I do something wrong??? I read the directions on the bottle and don't see anything I missed.

[JSeery]

This sounds like a clamp or hose issue if tightening the clamp makes it worse. All of this is a bit strange, I have almost never had a hose leak. Be interesting to see what the issue is when you get it figured out.

[rockfla]

I have two new clamps I got from Mike at Third Gen I think I will replace and see what happens.

[Clem Clement]

I'm using original clamps

[glennpm]

I like to use "Constant Torque" hose clamps. they are smooth all around the ID and with Belleville spring washers, adjust to cold to hot temperatures.


https://www.mcmaster.com/constant-torque-hose-clamps

[aussie merc]

curiosity question the necks are still round? if they are out of round youve got buckleys of getting then to seal ive found that a small tailpipe expander great for rerounding rad necks but gently does it you only want to reshape not expand

[Clem Clement]

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Hose fixed and in static test. Hoped to drop the truck today but cooked 2 wire and it is fixing wire time..

Great help folks thanks.
Found: I'm using used and cleaned hose clamps. Found one was a size A15, not the A12 In that I needed. On the heater hose lines, found that clamp's pinch closed completely as clamps were wrong size.

Also I had to open the rad. hose clamps to get them over the installed hose.
when tightening the clamp the nut comes down the bolt threads and stopped outside the holding nut arm. Thus when nut spins an stops secure. This was hard to see with the 2 horns I have installed under the radiator.

[JSeery]

Not sure I understand the issue other than the hose clamps were the wrong size and/or not working. That would sure do it in the won't seal department!

[19Fordy]

Try using 2 clamps at each end of hose. I also use Permatex non hardening sealer.

[rockfla]

I solved my issue. First.....on one side the Indian Head didn't seem like it was "thick" enough and didn't adhere like it should in combination with the "old" hose clamp. The other side adhered 3/4 of the way around with the "old" hose clamp. I pulled them both off, cleaned the neck of the head and insided the hose, then I scotch brite the neck of the heads (even though they were fresh from the machine shop from the start) and THEN cleaned them with acetone. I took a knife and scraped the inside of the hose clean and completely smooth of "ANY" build up of rust and gunk and cleaned it with acetone. THEN re-applied the Indian Head Shellac making sure there was a "good" even coat around both the neck and the hose. Then installed with "NEW" hose clamps. Dry as a bone!!!!

[19Fordy]

X-e-lent !

[ford38v8]

Originally Posted by Clem Clement

I'm using original clamps

Original clamps worked with original soft rubber hoses. Modern hoses are harder, and require the stronger modern clamps.

[Clem Clement]

My truck has not left the garage in months. Today I noticed the hose I had trouble with looks different and the clamps are rusting. Did I damage the hose by all the squashing and bending I did?

[wga]

Celm - take that truck out and drive it.

[nickthebandit]

A & L Parts Specialties, 1- 860-693-0112, or 1-860-693-2620

[russcc]

A &L is in CT. Good reputation. Model A supplier.