Flathead filter

[30ratrodder]

Hi. Is it OK to run a flathead without an oil filter?
Thanks

[bobscogin]

No more or no less OK than any other engine. I wouldn't, but you may get differing opinions.

Bob

[Fibber Mcgee]

I think if you use Fords stock filter you pretty much are running it without one ,being a partial filtration system.I use the stock filter and just change my oil every 1500 miles and oil still looks pretty clean.

[Terry,OH]

Fords of 32-35 did not have an oil filter and Ford did not offer one as an accessory until 1936. From 36 until the war the filter was not installed on the car unless the accessory filter was purchased. Many flatheads have never seen a filter and the filters are only a "partial flow" design which means that Not all the oil was passed through the filter every time around. Go ahead and run without the filter.

[Steves46]

My 46 doesn't use a filter and she has done just fine however I do change the oil every 1000-1500 miles. You should be ok. Steve

[Brendan]

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i don't run one on my 35 21 stud motor

[JM 35 Sedan]

If you feel you must run a filter, my suggestion would be the method shown in the attached picture. This is usually best done during a rebuild. Otherwise, I would go filter-less and change oil frequently. Today's oils do a good job of keeping the inside of an engine clean. JMO

This larger picture may help those who can't see the attachment that well.

[36tbird]

I think Ford offered the oil filter as a marketing ploy because as others have stated here, it is a bypass/partial oil system that returns the filtered oil to the pan, not into the system to be used right away. I'm wondering now if a PCV is more important than an oil filter because apparently Ford's breather system without one is what allows sludge build up from moisture condensation. Frequent oil changes will prevent that, too, of course.

[19Fordy]

Originally Posted by JM 35 Sedan

If you feel you must run a filter, my suggestion would be the method shown in the attached picture. This is usually best done during a rebuild. Otherwise, I would go filter-less and change oil frequently. Today's oils do a good job of keeping the inside of an engine clean. JMO

I can't read what the "thing" is that is inserted into the "connecting "oil passage. Please let me know. Thanks, JIM

[Ol' Ron]

The oil filter shown in the sketch above is payyerned after the filter system used in WWII and kept by the Canadian engines after the war. I started using this system back in the 60's on the stockcar to save barings from flaking. The oil comes out of the pump where the oil pressure sending unit is and is 1/4" pipe. I redrill this to 3/8. Then about 2" up the rear of the block I drill another hole (3/8NPT) for the return oil. the passage way between them is plug usually with a 7/16 set screw. Every eng that leaves my shop has this mod. This filters 2/3 of the oil going to the main bearings and 3/4 of the oil to the rods. If you use a dual remote filter with cooling fins it will reduce the oil temp. I'm using this system on my grand sons engine with 5-20 synthetic oil. The thinner oil runs cooler. Hope it works.

[JM 35 Sedan]

Originally Posted by 19Fordy

I can't read what the "thing" is that is inserted into the "connecting "oil passage. Please let me know. Thanks, JIM

I can't read that either but as Ol' Ron said, it is a plug (set screw) that is threaded in place between the two passageways.

[Labold]

I've been running my '40 without a filter but am planning to try what Ol'Ron is describing asap.
Even though I change my oil regularly and am probably ok, I still feel weird not running a filter of some sort. ...not that good kind of weird either...

[Bruce Lancaster]

And I too suspect that PCV is about as important as a filter...how many gallons of sludge have all of us dipped and scraped out of flatheads?? PCV plus thermostats to keep engine warm enough to cook off the combustion water and mystery chemicals.
Remember, Ford put PCV's on the same military engines that got the filter arrangement shown above. They were used in armored Bren carriers, artillery tractors, and severe use applications like that.
Lots of people worry about the "3/4 filtering" not passing the oil to the rear main.
This is the way oil is routed in all small block Chevys that have the built in full flow filter, all made since '57 or '59 or so. See lots of them sitting by the road with smoked rear mains, don't we??
Interestingly, the SBC oil system is virtually identical to the system shown here except for having the passages cast into the block and having extra galleries to feed those hydraulic lifters and rockers we don't need to worry about here.
If you don't think Knudsen had a few flatheads sitting on the workbench when designing the SBC, have a look at the way the pump/dist drive seals the oil gallery and look at the top of a flathead or Lincoln pump...coincidence?? Yeah.

By the way, the stock filters used '40-53 bypass systems allow finer filtering than is practical in full flow...and expensive heavy duty engines, big $$ large stuff, puts this idea to work by running 2 filters, a full flow plus a bypass one that gives the oil a good screening for the finer crud. Might be interesting to try.

[Mart]

It says "Grub Screw".

I have the by-pass filter on mine, and I was surprised at how much oil does flow through it. I could see the return squirting back into the fuel pump stand and the beehive filter was quite hot - that means to me that the hot oil was flowing through at a decent rate to make it heat up like that.. If there was no flow it would be cold, so the hotter the better - and the fins act like an oil cooler when the car is moving along.
It does have the 1/16" restrictor.

My other engine has no filter. Don't do enough miles for it to be a problem.

I might try the setup above on my next build.

One important point to make - I know this has caught someone out because I read it on one of the forums - If you are not running a filter, make sure a previous owner has not modified the block like above - likewise double check if it has any military history, because the passage where the grub screw has been fitted needs to be open to run filterless.

Mart.

[Mike51Merc]

Something to beware of regarding the "full flow" modification--- as the filter clogs up the flow will be reduced and eventually becomes a "no flow" oil system.

[Bruce Lancaster]

Grub screw is British and Commonwealth speak for set screw in American...
Modern engines have a bypass valve either in the filter itself or as in SBC in its attachment to bypass the filter whenever there is too much pressure differential across the thing.
According to various small block gurus: Modern disposable single filters are often running in the bypass mode because they lack sufficient flow capacity...SBC tests show bypass when cold and at high RPM, not just when dirty. Racers hence run dual filters in parallel or the gigantic truck version, and hotrod builders used to recommend swapping in the pre-1969 (also used later on Police, heavy duty applications) filter with the separate can...this actually flowed more than the nice convenient late one.

[bobscogin]

Originally Posted by Mike51Merc

Something to beware of regarding the "full flow" modification--- as the filter clogs up the flow will be reduced and eventually becomes a "no flow" oil system.

Quality filters will have a by pass built in that prevents such an occurrence.

Bob

[Mike51Merc]

Originally Posted by bobscogin

Quality filters will have a by pass built in that prevents such an occurrence.

Bob

Yes. I'm also reminded of a sad story that may have been posted on the HAMB, of a freshly rebuilt flattie with a full flow modification that they guy decided to "test run" without the filter (he capped or blocked off the filter lines). He filled it with oil and proceeded to cook his bearings & such.

[Jack E/NJ]

Jack E/NJ

[36tbird]

Mike, if you are going to modify a system, you need to know the system, right? Don't mean to be harsh, but c'mon. For all the others talking about bypasses not working or plugging, is anybody on these forums really talking about running an engine so long that we might plug everything up with contaminates? We go from guys not running a filter and changing their oil every 1000 to 1500 miles to guys that run filters but then worry about plugging them up but they probably do not run their oils any longer than those without filters. Am I right! WE ARE ALL MOTHER HENS OVER THESE OLD MOTORS! IT IS WHO WE ARE! RECOGNIZE IT, DEAL WITH IT!

Maybe the worst thing in a flathead to worry about is sludge buildup in the valley oil tube. Other than that, the old gals will run forever.

[Jack E/NJ]

Nah, Lou. Sump-screen sludge is worse. 8^)

I'm still waiting for a pix of your PCV setup.

Jack E/NJ

[19Fordy]

Originally Posted by JM 35 Sedan

I can't read that either but as Ol' Ron said, it is a plug (set screw) that is threaded in place between the two passageways.

Thank you.

[bobscogin]

Originally Posted by Mike51Merc

Yes. I'm also reminded of a sad story that may have been posted on the HAMB, of a freshly rebuilt flattie with a full flow modification that they guy decided to "test run" without the filter (he capped or blocked off the filter lines). He filled it with oil and proceeded to cook his bearings & such.

I recall that story, but if recall correctly the failure was due to the fact that the owner had used a block that had been modified to have the oil diverted out to a filter and didn't realize it. He plugged the external pipe ports and the "grub screw" blocked the oil from entering the oil galley. I bet Bruce Lancaster remembers that one. I think he discovered the cause of the problem.

Bob

[Lew Groth]

Will running without a filter give higher oil pressure when hot?
Thanks, Lew

[Mike in AZ]

or just run a hose from outlet port to inlet port of the block....and i read that post, too....Mike

[flatjack9]

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I happen to run the Motor City full flow system on my engine which I built in 1993. I do not have a PCV system and the inside of my engine looks just like the day I built it. I do run 180 deg thermostats. As I have said, a PCV system is a good idea but not essential to a clean engine. Sludge build up in the old engines probably had as much to do with the oil technology at that time than anything else.

[bobscogin]

Originally Posted by Lew Groth

Will running without a filter give higher oil pressure when hot?
Thanks, Lew

Maybe if it's a partial flow type filter that bleeds off oil and sends it to the filter. If it's a full flow, probably not.

Bob

[36tbird]

Good call (again!), Jack. Sump screen plugged up would ruin your whole day.

I remember a '39 Ford that my dad bought where we poured kerosene in the crank and ran it to loosen up the sludge to drain. I got the assignment to remove the drain plug so I was on my back expecting the usual slosh and splash of oil draining as you removed those big plugs so I did the final twist and pulled back. Even after the kerosene run, nothing came out! I stuck my finger in the hole only to feel solid sludge. I had to use a screw driver to poke a hole in the stuff to get something to finally drain out.

On my PCV set up. I've got it all mocked up and I think it will be really cool. I need to make a rear vent pipe piece, the one that goes down from the fuel pump base mount into the boss around the pump rod base. Measuring one from a '36, it is about 1.725 OD but all I could find is some 1 3/4" OD exhaust tubing. So, I will have to shave that just a little and it should fit. Anyway, with the discussion we had here on the Barn about it, I think we can say a collaborative effort was used to design a PCV setup for a 59A that will not diminish the engine's vacuum. Mine will not be completely hidden away like the ones under the manifolds, but will be very "attractively functional".

[flatjack9]

Had my engine apart last summer and as I stated it was as clean inside as the day I built it. The screen looked like new. No doubt the old oils, no themostats and lack of maintenance caused all kinds of sludge to build up. It just doesn't happen today.

[Merc Cruzer]

53’ Mercury block: the diagram depicts the oil return going from the filter to the newly drilled passage, where as my oil return goes back into the block just above the oil pan. Is there a need to drill the passage as depicted in the diagram or simply block off the tube as shown and direct the return oil back to the block where it is now?

[36tbird]

You drill the passage in order to install plugs. You are directing the oil up the vertical shaft from the oil pump to the filter. The oil comes out of the filter and returns to the existing passage via the new hole drilled upstream. You install a plug in the horizontal passage way between where the vertical oil passage from the pump intersects and the new hole downstream to keep the oil going to the filter from mixing with the oil that has come out of the filter.

[Barlea]

The new passage needs to be drilled to allow the full flow from the pump, through the filter, back to the new port so the full flow of filtered, pressurized oil is on it's way to the bearings. The partial flow system diverts part of the pressurized oil from the pump, through the filter and back to the pan. By the way, the disasters associated with leaving the grub screw in place without the filter and lines was eliminated in the Ford Canada full flow system by using a special outlet fitting that used a thinwall extension tube from the bottom to project down past the horizontal connecting passage. This tube effectively blocks the "out" passage from the "in" passage in full flow mode, and removing the hose fitting from the block removes the separation and allows use without filter system of any kind, or a partial flow filter. ..B.

[Merc Cruzer]

I agree with most:

"The oil comes out of the filter and returns to the existing passage via the new hole drilled upstream."

but why not just direct the oil coming out of the filter back to the hole in the block above the oil pan? It just doesn't seem to be a need to drill the new hole if the only purpose is to have the oil from the filter return there rather that back through the original hole in the lower block?

[Merc Cruzer]

Barlea:

Thank you for the reason and explanation for the new hole...I take it that you just plug the hole in the lower block?

[Barlea]

If you run all the oil through the filter and back into the pan there will be no pressurized oil to the bearings. Also, I didn't mention in my previous post that the inboard oil port is already drilled and tapped on Ford Canada flatheads. ..B.

[Mike in AZ]

you only do the drilling, tapping, plugging, etc. if you are going to the "full-flow" filtering system as shown in the diagram....what you have is the original filtering which only filtered a small portion of the time at a time, where the "full-flow" filtering system will filter most of the oil at a time.....Mike

[37fatfender]

As I look at that drawing it is NOT a full flow oil system, because unless I am wrong the rear main is still recieving unfiltered oil.........right?

[Bruce Lancaster]

Yep. Same as a Small block Chevy...

[36tbird]

37, you can direct filtered oil to the rear main but it involves drilling holes to the oil passages at the back of the block inside of the flywheel. I did this to the 8ba that currently resides in my '36 p/u. Everything seems to be fine but I always worry about that plumbing coming loose and dumping all of my oil in a few seconds. If I had it to do over again, I would not. As Bruce points out, there are millions of SBC's running around that do not have filtered oil going to their rear mains.

[37fatfender]

I know exactly....what you did, I thought that as the thread was going it began to sound like people believed that the diagram was a full flow system. I know of only two ways to completely filter the oil.......the MCF oil pump method or Red Hamilton..aka Red's Headers method. I was a little nervous when I installed Reds method, but its been in the car about 6 years with no problem. I also run the High Volume pump with it, I thought it would be better to use it knowing all the oil was pushed through the filter medium.

[Teich]

I used the full flow system described by JM 35 Sedan in a Canadian block allready had two vertical holes, just drilled and taped 3/8 pipe to plug the cross over 7/16"NF socket head set screw works as the will accept 7/16 tap. My system is 100% filtered a i drilled a hole from rear cam bearing down to the rear main, used the same size as the other oil passages, removed the fuel pump pushrod bushing and pluged hole. Put a peice of 1/4" fod into orig. oil passage from pump to the bearing. Useing a Ford spin on filter NAPA the best least pres. drop. Works very good about 6500 miles idles at 10 hot 10/30 or 20/50. Laurie

[Kentf1003]

As a kid, I owned a beautiful 1949 Ford that came from Southern California. It purred like a kitten with no oil filter system at all. Never gave me any engine trouble. Guess that would have worried a few of you. I was more concerned about how to raise money to buy a spare tire.

What is it they say, "Ignorance is bliss."

[Vergil]

I'm running two av8's, one with 100% oil filtered with high volume m15 oil pump and the next with stock oil passages and a high volume pump but where the oil line exits the engine to the oil filter I removed the .060" orfice and installed an adjustable valve then it goes to a remote oil filter. I figured the m15 pump puts out a lot more oil than the flathead needs so with the valve I can open it up until the oil pressure backs off a little when warm, now the oil is not bypassing at the oil pump bypass building up heat but goes through the filter cleaning the oil plus maybe cooling it a little also. If the engine gets loose and oil pressure drops I can screw the valve down a little to divert more oil to engine. Maybe not the best way but working thus far for me. Using pcv's on both.

Vergil

[Ronnie]

Originally Posted by Bruce Lancaster

Yep. Same as a Small block Chevy...

Bruce there is a plug in the hole you speak of that many guy's don't know about and the rear main does get filtered oil.look at the pic's.

http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/te.../photo_05.html

[Ronnie]

Another pic.

[Bruce Lancaster]

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"there is a plug in the hole you speak..."
I know the plug well. Look again...the vertical stack is the feed from the pump.
At the rear main, oils has two holes seen right and left in the pic. Oil going RIGHT enters the rear main, oil going LEFT enters the filter. From this point, oil has to go through the filter (the plug's purpose) except for the oil that turned right into the RB, then it reenters the feed stack ABOVE the plug and proceeds upwards to the other passages feeding all other bearings and the valve train.
That lower passage is the filter entrance.
The oil returns from the filter right above the plug, and heads on up to oil everything else.
In an engine without the plug (a common mishap amongst inexperienced people assembly a freshly cleaned block), the filter can fill up but has no flow, so the whole engine would be getting unfiltered oil.
One of Smokey Yunick's books has a long essay on ways to rearrange things to get the rear main oil filtered, but concludes that there is no benefit to justify the trouble.

[41panelmark]

Guys, I was reading through the posts on this and had a question. My original 41 24 stud has a filter mounted on the left head. There is a line coming from the block where the oil pressure sensor unit, going to the filter and from there it goes to the front of the engine. The line has a fitting at that end that accepts one of the bolts that hold the timing cover on. That bolt has in it allowing the oil to return near the cam gears.

I moved this system to the new engine. The new engine is the same except there is a T fitting where the pressure sensor and oil line are attached. My oil psi is around 60 to 80 depending on temp.

If I take the filter system off and plug that line I am guessing I will have more psi correct?

Or if I reduce the line size at one end by welding it up and drilling a .060 hole.

Now I learned that I get a pretty good flow of oil out of this line now but I worry about ruining my new engine. Any thoughts? I have about 250 miles on it now.

Mark

[Ronnie]

Originally Posted by Bruce Lancaster

"there is a plug in the hole you speak..."
I know the plug well. Look again...the vertical stack is the feed from the pump.
At the rear main, oils has two holes seen right and left in the pic. Oil going RIGHT enters the rear main, oil going LEFT enters the filter. From this point, oil has to go through the filter (the plug's purpose) except for the oil that turned right into the RB, then it reenters the feed stack ABOVE the plug and proceeds upwards to the other passages feeding all other bearings and the valve train.
That lower passage is the filter entrance.
The oil returns from the filter right above the plug, and heads on up to oil everything else.
In an engine without the plug (a common mishap amongst inexperienced people assembly a freshly cleaned block), the filter can fill up but has no flow, so the whole engine would be getting unfiltered oil.
One of Smokey Yunick's books has a long essay on ways to rearrange things to get the rear main oil filtered, but concludes that there is no benefit to justify the trouble.

Bruce it easy to see that the oil in hole goes to the right but that is where it is stopped. The large hole can be seen in the main saddle in the pic just under the bearing tang slot.This large hole is covered by the main bearing when it is installed.There is no corresponding oil hole there in the bearing. Lower in the picture you can see the oil hole in the main web that corresponds with the oil hole and groove in the bearing when it is installed. The large hole in the web is left behind when they machine the passage that intercects with the filter passage.

[Bruce Lancaster]

Yes...it is the lower passage that feeds the bearing. This is below the plug and feeds the rear main, the blind hole above the plug is the one that feeds filtered oil to everything else in the system. Oil from the pump divides BELOW the plug, a portion feeding unfilterd oil to the rear main, the remainin majority going through the filter, across to return to the vertical stack ABOVE the plug and on to the oil galleries. The rear main gets unfiltered oil straight from the pump.
The passage tha ends before the rear main is the outlet from filter, the one below drilled from two directions is the rear bearing feed.
LOWER passage is into the filter, UPPER is from the filter. The plug forces oil flow through the filter and fully isolates the rear main from filtered flow. Except on racing engines with fully external oils systems, altering that is complicated, as Smokey demonstrates!

[Merc Cruzer]

There are the diagrams, then there is the written description as how to install it…. now comes the photos for those of you that are diagram or description challenged (like me)….

[Barlea]

You need to use a remote filter base that allows use of a spin-on full flow filter with by-pass capability and bigger 3/8" ID lines. ..B.

[Merc Cruzer]

Barlea:
Just wondering, are you saying this won't work, or that the spin on with the 3/8 " lines is just better? I will admit I have thought of going with larger lines rather than reducing them. This in going into a stock 53' Merc and the spin on would be very obvious.

[billwill]

Originally Posted by 30ratrodder

Hi. Is it OK to run a flathead without an oil filter?
Thanks

yes the filter is only a by pass filter goodluk.

[Barlea]

Lines are too small, original filter is not designed for full flow, and you need bypass capability for cold start and other situations when full flow filter will not pass sufficient oil volume. If you're worried about it looking 100% original, forget it. ..B.

[Merc Cruzer]

Barlea:
So you are saying my only option to keep the origional appearance is just to cap off the new hole and use it the way it was?

[Barlea]

Don't forget to remove the grub screw that separates the "in" from the "out" oil port. ..B.

[Merc Cruzer]

Does anyone make this system as a kit?

[Vergil]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Full-...Q5fAccessories

Vergil

[Merc Cruzer]

Not all was lost....I was able to use the grub screw to plug the new hold drilled in the block....the option will always be there for a full flow filter....I guess I am too much of a purest.

[36tbird]

The EFV-8 club does not deduct points for seat belts, right? To me improving the filtration of the oil system to protect the investment that we put into these engines is along the same rationale.

[Gumpy]

A 59ab motor I had at one time ran without a filter but i put a powerful magnet on the pan near the drain plug so when I changed the oil I would sometimes see metal filings.......gump

[Merc Cruzer]

Ok so I am not ready to give up just quite yet. Most of remote filter applications seem to be in hot rods/modified/customs, so there is no intent to maintain the original appearance. Has anyone tried to conceal the remote head and filter inside of the original canister? I am thinking that with the use of a 90 degree head that the whole unit could be mounted inside the original canister with modifications to the back for the lines. You would cut two slots in the back for the pipes and that would allow you to simply slide the original canister down and out of the way when you wanted to change the filter. Of the two original filters, the only one that would seem to work is the one on the later (52'-53') Mercury that "bolts to the head" and not the one that the head bolts go through.

[Cecil/WV]

I don't know how you would keep the original look with the much larger lines that it requires??

[Merc Cruzer]

I was thinking steele and not rubber and then paint them black.

[Merc Cruzer]

Cecil/WV:

When you consider what you can see now...I don't think hiding the larger lines will be an issue.

[36tbird]

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Merc, I'm working on a spin on conversion for the old canister filters. When I get that done and if you are interested, you could have the old look with a modern filter hooked up to you upgraded filtration system for your flatmotor.

[Merc Cruzer]

36tbird:

I will look forward to seeing the pictures....

[Ronnie]

Originally Posted by Bruce Lancaster

Yes...it is the lower passage that feeds the bearing. This is below the plug and feeds the rear main, the blind hole above the plug is the one that feeds filtered oil to everything else in the system. Oil from the pump divides BELOW the plug, a portion feeding unfilterd oil to the rear main, the remainin majority going through the filter, across to return to the vertical stack ABOVE the plug and on to the oil galleries. The rear main gets unfiltered oil straight from the pump.
The passage the ends before the rear main is the outlet from filter, the one below drilled from two directions is the rear bearing feed.
LOWER passage is into the filter, UPPER is from the filter. The plug forces oil flow through the filter and fully isolates the rear main from filtered flow. Except on racing engines with fully external oils systems, altering that is complicated, as Smokey demonstrates!

Bruce I finally got out to the shop to look at the small block rear main.I probed the rear main oil feed hole with a welding rod.
The oil feed hole in the bearing web intersects the the drilled oil line on the other side of the plug which is where the filtered oil is coming from after the filter.The oil that leaves the oil pump has no other place to go except to the right ond on into the filter and doesn't feed the oil feed hole as it is on the other side of the installed plug.

Ronnie

[Mike in AZ]

have seen pics of that idea in Tex Smith's flathead book....guy figured out a way to secure the filter mount inside the original filter can....slots to run the two hoses in the side....cut the bottom off the filter can so you can get to the spin on filter....pretty clean setup....Mike

[36tbird]

Mike, that is exactly where I got the idea to do mine. It is kinda labor intensive. It is tough to get a good even cut to remove the bottom of the cans. I have figured that I will make an initial cut big enough to fit in a boring bar attachment then cut from the inside out to get an even cut on the taper line. I found 5" diameter aluminum stock to use as the spin on filter plate. Finding a source for the filter nipples was another hurtle. I hope to get an engine running soon that I can test the filter on.

[19Fordy]

In Post #57 wouldn't that set up interfere with the headers?

[34PKUP]

Originally Posted by 19Fordy

In Post #57 wouldn't that set up interfere with the headers?

Probably not if used with original stock headers.
And there is nothing to prevent modifying the oil feed tubes as well as relocating the filter to provide clearance if needed to accommodate aftermarket headers.

[Ziggster]

Interesting. I was just going to reinstall the "original" remote filter that came with engine, but it takes up room, and makes things cluttered IMHO. So, if running without a filter is fine, what should I be checking for exactly on the oil ports at the rear bell hsg on my C69?

[Ronnie]

Yikes 8 year old thread


R

[JSeery]

Originally Posted by Ziggster

Interesting. I was just going to reinstall the "original" remote filter that came with engine, but it takes up room, and makes things cluttered IMHO. So, if running without a filter is fine, what should I be checking for exactly on the oil ports at the rear bell hsg on my C69?

If it was a bypass filter nothing. If it was what is called the 95% conversion, it would be a grub in the passage as shown in the previous diagrams. If it was one of the military type oil cooler/filter setups it would have had a fitting in the oil connection on the block that closed off the passage. It was an external fitting with a section attached to the bottom that extended down to block the passage.

[aussie merc]

the long and short of it any filter is better than none the debate will rage till the last flathead dies but if you dont have a filter youve got 0% chance of catching any contaminant your choices your consequences

[fftoddster]

Originally Posted by bobscogin

I recall that story, but if recall correctly the failure was due to the fact that the owner had used a block that had been modified to have the oil diverted out to a filter and didn't realize it. He plugged the external pipe ports and the "grub screw" blocked the oil from entering the oil galley. I bet Bruce Lancaster remembers that one. I think he discovered the cause of the problem.

Bob

I am so thankful I found this thread as the engine I have acquired and am about to install has this mod. I was considering just plugging the ports (not knowing anything about that grub screw and the damage that would have occurred)

You guys are great and this site if very helpful.

[JSeery]

Originally Posted by fftoddster

I am so thankful I found this thread as the engine I have acquired and am about to install has this mod. I was considering just plugging the ports (not knowing anything about that grub screw and the damage that would have occurred)

You guys are great and this site if very helpful.

Yep, would have been a BIG problem!

[aussie merc]

BIG OOPs avoided that could have been embarrassing to say the least you will find this a good site to share