Do ALL banjo rearends require a hub puller to remove the brake drum?

[34pickup]

My newly acquired 48 Ford coupe has brake shoe to brake drum clearance problems. The hub/drums will barely turn on each wheel. I did adjust them so that they were backed off as far as they would go.

So I removed the brake shoes on the front to make sure it was the shoes that were the problem. Appears that the shoe linings may be too thick. I now need to remove the rear drums to see if thats the same problem back there.

So, I have heard that you cannot remove the rear drums without a hub puller. Is this true in every case? If so, where would one find or rent such an obsolete tool?

[Lawson Cox]

It is not necessary in EVERY case. I had a rear hub come off all by itself on a trip to Dearborn one . No fun. Now, to answer your question. yes a puller is required in most cases and be sure it is a puller that is designed for an early fore, i.e., one that grabs the hub itself, not the studs.

[34pickup]

Thanks

[rotorwrench]

The ones where it wasn't torqued properly might just fall off unless it sheared the key. With the torque they had on them and time installed unknown, it's kind of a crap shoot as to whether it will come of easy or not. I'd always figure they would be tight going into a job like that. If it hasn't been on long then it might come off easier. With a tapered shaft you just never know. I'd sure want it tight.

[al pa.]

winfield tool works
1-631-928-3316
p.o.box 476
port jefferson n.y. 11777
hub puller

[Charlie Stephens]

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If you don't need a puller they were loose. If they were run loose very far I would check for cracks (usually at the inboard end of the keyway). You can rent the puller here: http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/f...ls_forsale.htm

Charlie Stephens

[34pickup]

Thanks

[tubman]

If you can't source a puller, you could also try the old "Figure-8" trick. Loosen the axle nuts about one turn and then drive in a couple of figure-eights in a parking lot, Sometimes it will loosen them up. Don't go crazy, though.

[Tinker]

Originally Posted by tubman

If you can't source a puller, you could also try the old "Figure-8" trick. Loosen the axle nuts about one turn and then drive in a couple of figure-eights in a parking lot, Sometimes it will loosen them up. Don't go crazy, though.

This will work. I've done it a few times. Just a full turn or less on the axle nut then put the pin in and drive it like normal or less for a bit or a day. Don't over do it, no burnouts! Do this a day before using a puller also.


I real puller will make easy work of it if it needs to be done quickly, but sometimes you have to improvise. Nothing like the right tool for the job, makes life easy, or you can pound a rock on it for a bit. haha just kidding.

[Tinker]

Remember to reinstall the axle pin correct way and torque to 200# or at least 150#

[Charlie Stephens]

Reading some of the short cuts to using a good puller makes me want to suggest you install safety hubs or safety clips to keep the drum and hub on the car if the axle fails. Safety hubs or safety clips are a good idea even if you do everything the correct way.

Charlie Stephens

[Tinker]

Originally Posted by Charlie Stephens

Reading some of the short cuts to using a good puller makes me want to suggest you install safety hubs or safety clips to keep the drum and hub on the car if the axle fails. Safety hubs or safety clips are a good idea even if you do everything the correct way.

Charlie Stephens

I installed them on my 38. Great reminder Charlie, Definitely a good idea. Peace of mind driving 70mph down the road. Puller or not, it's a fine safety piece, shouldn't run a banjo without it.


absolute most and easy and economical to do.





.

[JM 35 Sedan]

Every rear hub/drum I remove on these Ford banjo rears, I start off using the correct type puller, as if they are definitely going to tight on the tapered axle. Some come off very easily, but most are tight enough to require the correct type puller, and some are so tight you would almost think someone welded them on the axle.
If you're going to be driving and working on these old cars, make sure you own, or have access to the right tools for the job.

[19Fordy]

Two styles of home made hub safety clips. Both fasten to wheel cylinder bolts.
First is for the 1939 Lincoln MT Products kit. Second pair is for stock 1940 Ford.
Follow Tinker and Charlie's advice.

[Tony, NY]

It is possible to have removable drums without the hubs, if you want.

[34pickup]

Originally Posted by Tinker

This will work. I've done it a few times. Just a full turn or less on the axle nut then put the pin in and drive it like normal or less for a bit or a day. Don't over do it, no burnouts! Do this a day before using a puller also.


I real puller will make easy work of it if it needs to be done quickly, but sometimes you have to improvise. Nothing like the right tool for the job, makes life easy, or you can pound a rock on it for a bit. haha just kidding.

Ha, its a stock 48 flathead, I don't think they will burn rubber, will they?

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by 34pickup

Ha, its a stock 48 flathead, I don't think they will burn rubber, will they?

That's funny! Go try it! Be prepared to replace axle keys (or worse), though. DD

[edhd58]

Originally Posted by V8COOPMAN

That's funny! Go try it! Be prepared to replace axle keys (or worse), though. DD

If you like trying burnouts be prepared to replace the ring and pinion, its about a grand after all the parts and pieces.
Ask me how I know, I'm on my 3rd rear end. Mom never said I was the brightest bulb on the tree.

[Mac VP]

We do rent the Winfield removal tool, which is a correct reproduction of the original K R Wilson tool. Don’t try using a jaw type puller for this job. They will work sometimes if the drum is not on tight, but they can cause damage if your drums are nice and tight. If you cannot find a buddy with the tool, just call us.

[34pickup]

I may just buy a puller. I love tools. What do you think about this design they sell on ebay?