crankshaft timing gear

[bob keenan]

has anyone ever changed the crankshaft timing gear with engine still in the car? thanks for any help

[Bruce of MN]

Here's some info:

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showt...ok#post1154629

[29spcoupe]

I changed mine that way. You will need the special socket that the repop guys sell and a close quarters impact wrench. Piece of cake. John

[katy]

Originally Posted by bob keenan

has anyone ever changed the crankshaft timing gear with engine still in the car? thanks for any help

It can be done, but it's a lot of work.

NOTE, he's asking about the CRANKSHAFT gear, not the CAMSHAFT gear, no special socket needed. Deep maybe.

[29spcoupe]

Originally Posted by katy

It can be done, but it's a lot of work.

NOTE, he's asking about the CRANKSHAFT gear, not the CAMSHAFT gear, no special socket needed. Deep maybe.

Wow, did I have a senior moment, or what! Sorry about that.

[Chuck Sea/Tac]

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You will probably have a small oil leak when done because of the rope seals being disturbed.

[Patrick L.]

The link posted didn't seem to help much to me, JMO.

The answer is yes, the crank can be changed while the engine sin the vehicle. The engine needs to be jacked pretty high which means the rear motor mount bolts need to be removed and the others loosened to allow the engine to tilt enough. Then it takes a 'real' puller, impact wrench and heat to get the gear off.

When installing the new gear, PLEASE do not hammer the gear back on. I've turned a couple pieces of pipe and welded a plate to the the ends to allow for using a bolt to 'push' the gear on. Heating the gear also helps with this.

[bob keenan]

thanks for the info.

[SeaSlugs]

camshaft gear is tolerable - crank gear id just assume and pull the engine. good excuse to regasket it and reseal things, check bearing clearances, clean it well and touch up some paint. While its out check the clutch and trans for issues. Might as well kill multiple birds with one big stone haha.

Whatever you do dont forget the "hidden" bolt on the right side hidden in a rectangular recess in the timing cover haha.

[James Rogers]

Originally Posted by Patrick L.

The link posted didn't seem to help much to me, JMO.

The answer is yes, the crank can be changed while the engine sin the vehicle. The engine needs to be jacked pretty high which means the rear motor mount bolts need to be removed and the others loosened to allow the engine to tilt enough. Then it takes a 'real' puller, impact wrench and heat to get the gear off.

When installing the new gear, PLEASE do not hammer the gear back on. I've turned a couple pieces of pipe and welded a plate to the the ends to allow for using a bolt to 'push' the gear on. Heating the gear also helps with this.

If you throw any more than 100 degrees to the gear to remove it, you will be going to a builder to have the mains done. The front main bearing is DIRECTLY behind the gear and very susceptible to any amount of heat.

[Will N]

100 degrees? The engine reaches way more than that in normal operating conditions.

[P.S.]

Just chaned the gear on the crankshaft last week on a friend's motor. The old one did not want to come off! Got it off with the motor on the stand, it was major time consuming, but it finally came off after many hours and patience. No way it could have been done while still in the car.

The good news is, after replacing both gears, the mystery knocking sound is gone.

[Patrick L.]

I'm no expert on babbitt or tin, but, I've thought it/they could/would melt at 400-500ºF.

My concern with changing the crank gear was damaging the thrust surface.

[100IH]

With crank out, even in the shop press and a bearing splitter, they can be tough.

[James Rogers]

Originally Posted by Will N

100 degrees? The engine reaches way more than that in normal operating conditions.

I wouldn't put any kind of direct heat on anything close to the babbitt. It will take way more than 100 degrees to get that gear off and I have melted babbitt with a cigarette lighter. Use what you will but it only means more work for builders.

[redmodelt]

Just did this job 2 months ago. I was lucky, we have an in service gear puller. Did have to raise the engine up. To reinstall I heated the gear up in oil, best done outside, lined everything up and it slid right on. Got to be somewhat quick, don't want the temp of the gear to drop too much when putting it on.

[CarlG]

I've never done it with the engine in the car, but have done it a couple of times on the engine stand. I do have a 3-prong puller that does a good job of getting it off. Back on I heat the gear in my wife's oven to about 500 degrees and then use the nut to push it back on. Like redmodelt said, need to be quick about it, it cools down really fast.

[larrys40]

Agree with James - no need to use heat. The pan of course needs to be off as well and if you pull he radiator and crank bearing at cross member and u bolts and retainer you can use a puller to get off. If you have someone in your area that has a K.R. wilson 6306 puller it fits nicely. There is also a replaced that screws into the front crank but threads and you can press it in with the 6306 sleeve press . If it’s chewed up or chewing up cam timing gear I’d change it. If not dont worry about it . You need to have the right tools to do the job. As James said you don’t want to ruin a front main bearing .

Larry shepard
Larry

[Ted Duke]

I did it in the driveway the weekend I bought mine in 1970 with the engine in the car with the help of one 8 yr old son and two neighbors. I guess we didn't know it couldn't be done.
Don't ask me HOW we did it. I don't remember.

[PatrickTA]

Its not heating the gear that's the issue the crank will act as a heat sink. The issue is if the flame hits the Babbitt then it will melt. Best to pull the crank and do it on the bench. Generally no heat should be required. Just a good puller. www.patsrestoration.com