The Ford Barn

30aadoodlebug · 08-16-2017, 05:12 AM

As I stated in a previous post, I'm new to the whole flathead thing, so please pardon my stupid newbie questions.

I just bought a donor car (50 custom coupe) for the 50 country squire I'm restoring/bringing back to stock. I need to pull the engine and tranny from it, but just wanted to see if there were any secrets/tips I should know about before loosening the mounts and going for it. My main question/concern is what is the best place to attach the hoist? And once the engine is out, how to mount it to a standard engine stand?

The engine in the donor car is complete and in great shape; like it's predecessor four banger, I think it just needs the usual tear-down, mega cleaning, and rebuild to come back to life.

tubman · 08-16-2017, 06:57 AM

I just had the engine in and out of my '51 club coupe. I pulled the engine/transmission together, and that worked fine. If you do, make sure you take out the clutch linkage, as it is bolted to the transmission. I have a length of chain with two metal tabs on it that go under the head bolts that I use for this. When bolting it on, bias it a bit towards the front so the front of the engine tilts up when you lift it. I don't remember exactly where I attached it, but it becomes apparent if you don't have it right; it's easy to let it back down and re-position. Of course, this is all moot if you have one of those handy-dandy leveler things.

Good luck with that engine. I got real lucky on a Mercury I bought as a core. It turned over, so I put it on my test stand to test the compression; all cylinders were over 100 lbs. Then we started it, expecting the worse, and it ran great with 25 lbs of oil pressure at idle and 55 at 2000 RPM. That's where it's nice to have a test stand; I was able to run it enough to fully ensure it was what it seemed to be. In and out of the car two or three times is no fun.

toby · 08-16-2017, 07:10 AM

Take out the radiator and the air deflector if you can. You will have more room.

tubman · 08-16-2017, 07:18 AM

^^ Yeah, I forgot that ^^

I also removed the panel that contains the hood latch and the upper grille bars for maximum clearance.

19Fordy · 08-16-2017, 01:24 PM

Also, take plenty of photos as you go....for reassembly.

30aadoodlebug · 08-16-2017, 06:25 PM

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Thanks for all the great info guys!

Forgive my ignorance, but does the air deflector refer to the shroud over the radiator?

08-16-2017, 05:12 AM	#1
30aadoodlebug Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: Boxborough, MA Posts: 274	Pulling Engine on a 50 Coupe As I stated in a previous post, I'm new to the whole flathead thing, so please pardon my stupid newbie questions. I just bought a donor car (50 custom coupe) for the 50 country squire I'm restoring/bringing back to stock. I need to pull the engine and tranny from it, but just wanted to see if there were any secrets/tips I should know about before loosening the mounts and going for it. My main question/concern is what is the best place to attach the hoist? And once the engine is out, how to mount it to a standard engine stand? The engine in the donor car is complete and in great shape; like it's predecessor four banger, I think it just needs the usual tear-down, mega cleaning, and rebuild to come back to life.

08-16-2017, 06:57 AM	#2
tubman Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2013 Location: Minnesota, Florida Keys Posts: 10,304	Re: Pulling Engine on a 50 Coupe I just had the engine in and out of my '51 club coupe. I pulled the engine/transmission together, and that worked fine. If you do, make sure you take out the clutch linkage, as it is bolted to the transmission. I have a length of chain with two metal tabs on it that go under the head bolts that I use for this. When bolting it on, bias it a bit towards the front so the front of the engine tilts up when you lift it. I don't remember exactly where I attached it, but it becomes apparent if you don't have it right; it's easy to let it back down and re-position. Of course, this is all moot if you have one of those handy-dandy leveler things. Good luck with that engine. I got real lucky on a Mercury I bought as a core. It turned over, so I put it on my test stand to test the compression; all cylinders were over 100 lbs. Then we started it, expecting the worse, and it ran great with 25 lbs of oil pressure at idle and 55 at 2000 RPM. That's where it's nice to have a test stand; I was able to run it enough to fully ensure it was what it seemed to be. In and out of the car two or three times is no fun.

08-16-2017, 07:10 AM	#3
toby Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Racine, WI Posts: 472	Re: Pulling Engine on a 50 Coupe Take out the radiator and the air deflector if you can. You will have more room.

08-16-2017, 07:18 AM	#4
tubman Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2013 Location: Minnesota, Florida Keys Posts: 10,304	Re: Pulling Engine on a 50 Coupe ^^ Yeah, I forgot that ^^ I also removed the panel that contains the hood latch and the upper grille bars for maximum clearance. Last edited by tubman; 08-16-2017 at 07:43 AM.

08-16-2017, 01:24 PM	#5
19Fordy Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Coral Springs FL Posts: 10,925	Re: Pulling Engine on a 50 Coupe Also, take plenty of photos as you go....for reassembly.

08-16-2017, 06:25 PM	#6
30aadoodlebug Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: Boxborough, MA Posts: 274	Re: Pulling Engine on a 50 Coupe Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) Thanks for all the great info guys! Forgive my ignorance, but does the air deflector refer to the shroud over the radiator?