Got Miss Molly home

[bartmcneill]

Just got my 30 Coupe home. She will spend her first night outside if many, many years as she was in a barn covered in dust. (She will be in my shop tomorrow) She was being rebuilt about 10 to 20 years ago. What do I need to do to the engine? It appears to have been rebuilt like the rest of the car but never has run. Do I need to squirt something into each cylinder before cranking it? If so what and how much.

[CWPASADENA]

Hopefully, it was not stored with water in it.


I would drain any oil in the pan and refill the crankcase but leave it one quart low.


Take the plugs out and put about an ounce of oil in each cylinder.


Remove the distributor and if the add the last quart of oil down the distributor hole to fill the valve chamber.


Carefully, try to turn the engine by hand using the crank or a wrench on the crank pulley ratchet nut. Do not force the engine to turn if it does not want to.


It may take some time soaking the cylinders if the engine seems to be stuck.


When you are easily able to turn the engine by hand, install a battery and turn the engine with the starter.


If everything seems OK, reinstall the distributor and plugs, add some gas and water and see if it will start but first, be sure the transmission has oil in it.


If it does run, do not let idle, keep the RPM up to 800-1000 RPM for the first 10-15 minutes of running to get everything lubricated.


Take your time and do not rush things.


Keep us posted as you progress.


Chris W.

[30 Closed Cab PU]

I would add-


Clean/Gap the plugs
Clean/Gap the points


Lube the Distributor cam, generator, distributor oil cup, carefully lube/grease the water pump (do not over grease, only a partial pump).
If these have dried up lube, does not take much to damage bearings/bushings.

Originally Posted by CWPASADENA

Hopefully, it was not stored with water in it.


I would drain any oil in the pan and refill the crankcase but leave it one quart low.


Take the plugs out and put about an ounce of oil in each cylinder.


Remove the distributor and if the add the last quart of oil down the distributor hole to fill the valve chamber.


Carefully, try to turn the engine by hand using the crank or a wrench on the crank pulley ratchet nut. Do not force the engine to turn if it does not want to.


It may take some time soaking the cylinders if the engine seems to be stuck.


When you are easily able to turn the engine by hand, install a battery and turn the engine with the starter.


If everything seems OK, reinstall the distributor and plugs, add some gas and water and see if it will start but first, be sure the transmission has oil in it.


If it does run, do not let idle, keep the RPM up to 800-1000 RPM for the first 10-15 minutes of running to get everything lubricated.


Take your time and do not rush things.


Keep us posted as you progress.


Chris W.

[30 Closed Cab PU]

Wow, looks nice. looks like all it needs is little care/prep, and a good cleaning. Getting it started, do a full service including changing all fluids, maybe a cooling system rust treatment/backflush flush/flush and you will have a great car.

[Ernie Vitucci]

Wheel Bearing Grease might be something you want to check. It is most likely pretty hard if almost no movement in years! Also about 31 lube points on that old girl that are most likely as dry as a bone...give them all a squirt! Clean and tighten all electrical contact points...six volt loves clean tight connections...really gets grumpy if connections are loose and dirty! Ernie in Arizona

[History]

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I'm doing all the same stuff on a 30 sport coupe. I got grease in all the fittings except the one for the universal joint, I'll replace that one. I noticed the gas pedal wouldn't return and found the two bushings behind the engine head were stiff. I squirted some pb blaster in the little holes after I picked the crap out of them and it's moving smoothly now. I'm actually enjoying all of this, discovering little things as I go. I'll have that les Andrews book here in a few days.

[Bill Cilker]

I would do one more thing to the water pump - Back off the shaft packing nut completely, rub some grease on the shaft and move the packing nut and packing over the grease to get grease between the shaft and the packing. Then retighten the packing nut. Leave it barely thight and then once the engine is running, tighten just enough to stop water from leaking out between the shaft and the packing.

[History]

Originally Posted by Bill Cilker

I would do one more thing to the water pump - Back off the shaft packing nut completely, rub some grease on the shaft and move the packing nut and packing over the grease to get grease between the shaft and the packing. Then retighten the packing nut. Leave it barely thight and then once the engine is running, tighten just enough to stop water from leaking out between the shaft and the packing.

The little things like that are so important. Thank you for the advice.

[Chris in WNC]

Good Golly.....

[WHN]

Originally Posted by History

I'm doing all the same stuff on a 30 sport coupe. I got grease in all the fittings except the one for the universal joint, I'll replace that one. I noticed the gas pedal wouldn't return and found the two bushings behind the engine head were stiff. I squirted some pb blaster in the little holes after I picked the crap out of them and it's moving smoothly now. I'm actually enjoying all of this, discovering little things as I go. I'll have that les Andrews book here in a few days.

Just one comment about u-joint. You might want to try John Deere Cornhead Grease. Remove speedometer drive gear mounting bolts. Pump in Cornhead Grease until it starts to come out of speedometer drive hole. Could take at least one full tube. Chassis grease is not right for u-joint on Model A’s.

Cornhead will also work in steering box. Self leveling. Enjoy.

[jhowes]

I would add that the fuel system can be a real headache if not cleaned out before trying to start it. The tank might have rust or junk in it and the carb should be drained and flushed with clean gas. You should post a picture of the engine compartment so we can see what you're working with. Jack