What electric pint BUFFER do you recommend?

[Marshall V. Daut]

ADDED: Oops! The title should read "paint", not pint! Fat typing fingers at work there.
For almost 35 years I have been using a pneumatic buffer connected to my air medium-high capacity compressor when I buff out my paint jobs. I have gone through three air compressors in this time, mostly by taxing them with hours on end of buffing. The compressor I have now just can't keep up anymore and I end up spending more time waiting for the pressure to build up to continue than I actually spend buffing. Time to change to an electric buffer.
I don't mean the puny kind that you buff wax and polish with. These run way too slowly to do any good. I tried that and was disappointed. I need a good, powerful electric buffer that was designed with the speed and stamina to buff out acrylic enamel type paint. So, for you guys who do this on a more than occasional basis, which buffer do you recommend? I have at least three Model A and T cars to buff out (in pieces) before Christmas.
Thanks in advance.
Marshall

[marc silva]

I use a variable speed Milwaukee. Cost me a couple hundred years ago. I used to use an air tool but since we closed our shop with two monster compressors ,I used my garage upright compressor and like you ran the hell out of it. Went too slow and got tired of listening to a noisy compressor. I think you will like the Milwaukee. I do.

[jw hash]

over the years I have the old original heavy black&decker single speed. then I went to a craftsman Variable speed it only lasted a month and it burnt up. then I went pneumatic they are to slow to noisy and not enough power. now for the last few years I went to a Makita variable with a cross over handle. it is light weight an works well with my 3" pads for getting to tight places.

[Dick Steinkamp]

I've done 10+ cars with my Makita 7" ...



No disappointments. It is powerful enough that you don't want it to hook up on anything...it will throw you across the room

[Gary WA]

The best Air cooled buffers are by www.griots.com you will be impressed and their products are Spectacular,check it out no affiliation with them just purchase all wax etc from them for years.

[d.conrad]

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DeWalt variable speed buffer. 1700 r.p.m. max. Great

[prpmmp]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h_0nr6XPEHM He has about 5 or 6 videos that are very informative and he is a real character!! Pete

[old31]

Marshall, take a look at this video on buffing equipment.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZtRAlV3e_40

[gweilbaker]

I have an older Milwaukee which is a brute and heavy. The Makita mentioned above is a beauty with power and weight.

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Marshall et/al, this question which at best is much akin to asking which is the best grade of oil to use. Even with old enamel paint finishes, the key is more about what you are doing, and what level of quality are you seeking.

For us, we color-sand all new paint to 5000 grit, -and on old paint rejuvenation, we color-sand by hand to 2500 grit and follow-up with 3000 grit on a Hutchins DA before doing the buff. We use a compound called Perfect-it with a PorterCable random orbital buffer and a foam pad. The issue with using the older heavy-duty buffers with a wool pad and heavy-duty compound is you can overheat the paint and it also creates chatter marks in the surface that you just worked so hard at blocksanding to make straight.

The bottom line is you are using a media (either sandpaper or buffing compound) to level the surface. Therefore choosing the correct buffer for your application depends on how nice you want the finish and which method of prep work you plan to do before polishing.

[flatford39]

I use a porter cable two stage with foam pads. I color sand with 1000, 1500 & 2000 and then use 3M Perfect it.

I have had excellent results. I use three different foam pads. Coarse, medium & fine.

[pgerhardt]

Originally Posted by BRENT in 10-uh-C

Marshall et/al, this question which at best is much akin to asking which is the best grade of oil to use. Even with old enamel paint finishes, the key is more about what you are doing, and what level of quality are you seeking.

For us, we color-sand all new paint to 5000 grit, -and on old paint rejuvenation, we color-sand by hand to 2500 grit and follow-up with 3000 grit on a Hutchins DA before doing the buff. We use a compound called Perfect-it with a PorterCable random orbital buffer and a foam pad. The issue with using the older heavy-duty buffers with a wool pad and heavy-duty compound is you can overheat the paint and it also creates chatter marks in the surface that you just worked so hard at blocksanding to make straight.

The bottom line is you are using a media (either sandpaper or buffing compound) to level the surface. Therefore choosing the correct buffer for your application depends on how nice you want the finish and which method of prep work you plan to do before polishing.

Like Brent I use the PorterCable. However it has a big heavy handle that gets in the way sometimes. In this video (click video) I show how I solved the problem very cheaply.

[Marshall V. Daut]

Thanks for all the good input and recommendations. I am wading through them now to determine which electric buffer to purchase. Lots of choices with a wide range of prices. I'd love the high end $375+ killer-diller buffers - if I had a professional business rubbing out paint. But as a DIY guy at home, I'm afraid I'll have to set my sights a little lower.
Marshall