Restoring 1953 Mercury Medallion Assembly (front door trim panel)

[Merc Cruzer]

I am looking to restore a 1953 Mercury Medallion Assembly (front door trim panel). The part number is BG 7321025-A. They were used from 53'-54'. This covered the hole for the window crank, on cars that had power windows.

I have been told that horn buttons can be restored, and thought that this might be the way to go. The issue here is that horn buttons are open from the back, where as this has a rolled metal plate over it. Has anyone had any luck with this approach?

I was hoping to find a NOS one, but since this is somewhat of a rare option, that doesn't seem viable. For some reason they only were used on the drivers side of the car.

I have tried: e-bay, Green Sales, Rear counter and the web with no luck so far.

The plastic is not cracked, that is just the paint on the back side coming off.

Roy Lange
[email protected]
(303) 838-2028

[fordor41]

I've restored plastic horn buttons. I used paint remover and a Qtip tp gently remove peeling paint. can you remove the rolled edge from the back side just enought to separate the two pieces, clean, repaint and maybe epoxy the two back together? go easy on chemicals as some strong ones may disolve the plastic

[Merc Cruzer]

Originally Posted by fordor41

I've restored plastic horn buttons. I used paint remover and a Qtip tp gently remove peeling paint. can you remove the rolled edge from the back side just enought to separate the two pieces, clean, repaint and maybe epoxy the two back together? go easy on chemicals as some strong ones may disolve the plastic

So far I have been unable to remove the rolled edge back plate. I did take a Qtip and put warm water on it to see if I could clean the back of the area that is open. The paint came off very easily, so I stopped, just in case I can't get the back off, ans I have to use it as is.

I think if I can remove the back, repainting it is definitely an option. What paint did you use? The colors appear to be quite brilliant and the top "wings" are gold.

Thank you for the reply.

[rotorwrench]

FoMoCo used silver & gold paint for Mercury medallions. I think the Lucite gave it the shiny metal look. I've not tried to reproduce it but I've looked at the silver ones used on the 1951s a good bit and it doesn't appear to be any special form of paint. The 51 hood medallions use a red over silver to give that shiny look to both the colors. The gold stuff was generally for Lincoln Lido and special Mercury models like the early Monterey coupes. They just used the highest shine paint they could find.

Removing the backing plate would likely be the best way to gain access to the back of the plastic. You would likely have to destroy it to get it out without damaging the rolled edge. Find a plug button the correct size to fit back in there if possible. This is one source but there are others like McMaster Carr, etc..
https://apexfasteners.com/fasteners/...4200d7cc203d03

It might be a lot of work but those type of things are unobtainium sometimes unless you are a persistent searcher.

[Merc Cruzer]

Originally Posted by rotorwrench

FoMoCo used silver & gold paint for Mercury medallions. I think the Lucite gave it the shiny metal look. I've not tried to reproduce it but I've looked at the silver ones used on the 1951s a good bit and it doesn't appear to be any special form of paint. The 51 hood medallions use a red over silver to give that shiny look to both the colors. The gold stuff was generally for Lincoln Lido and special Mercury models like the early Monterey coupes. They just used the highest shine paint they could find.

Removing the backing plate would likely be the best way to gain access to the back of the plastic. You would likely have to destroy it to get it out without damaging the rolled edge. Find a plug button the correct size to fit back in there if possible. This is one source but there are others like McMaster Carr, etc..
https://apexfasteners.com/fasteners/...4200d7cc203d03

It might be a lot of work but those type of things are unobtainium sometimes unless you are a persistent searcher.

The interesting thing is that the medallion was only used on the drivers side to cover the hole where the window crank was. On the passenger side they simply put the window switch in the same hole.

I think you are right, in that to take the plate off the back, would involve cutting strips in the plate with a dremel saw or drumel cut off wheel, to weaken it, then pulling it out from under the rolled edge. I could then make a new plate for the back.

In 1954, Mercury put a Medallion on the dash. They are available, but somewhat costly ($100), and they appear to always be in better shape. The front surface is the same size. I was thinking of buying one of these and cutting the sides down. I think the mounting would go through the hole and then it would be simply putting a plate and nut over the screw on the back.

[rotorwrench]

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That sounds like the hot smokin tip. Most folks would never know the difference. I know I wouldn't if you hadn't brought it up.

[Merc Cruzer]

Score the plate with the drumel saw and pulled the plate out from under the rolled edge. The pieces can be separated. Now it seams to be a matter of cleaning off the old paint and then repainting, using a horn button for a color guide.

[cas3]

when i have opened up the rolled edge on gauges i like to make a wooden fixture to hold it while i am working. a hole saw or an adjustable boring rig to get the size right. then its just patience with a sharp small screwdriver. if the fixture leaves your medallion flush with the edge it should help when you crimp it back

[Merc Cruzer]

Just wondering is Testors Enamel model paint could be used successfully? As for stripping off the old pain, mineral spirits or something harsher?

Originally Posted by cas3

when i have opened up the rolled edge on gauges i like to make a wooden fixture to hold it while i am working. a hole saw or an adjustable boring rig to get the size right. then its just patience with a sharp small screwdriver. if the fixture leaves your medallion flush with the edge it should help when you crimp it back

I was able to remove the back plate with out unrolling the edge.

[Merc Cruzer]

I was able to get most of the black on the back off, using Qtips and nail polish remover. The nail polish remover, did not attack the plastic. Now to get the paints. My wife is going to do the painting on the back of the Mercury crest, in the center, since her hands are allot steadier than mine.

I am thinking I can make a new back plate with the cutouts for the tabs and then epoxy it to the back. I will make it long enough to go under the rolled sides. I will bend it in the center then press it down in the center to push the ends under the rolled sides. I was thinking of a rectangle with ends that follow the curvature of the ring. I will have to do a couple of experiments to make sure the epoxy doesn't lift the paint.

I am not going to remove the paint on the back of the crest. It will be more of a fill in effort rather than a complete repaint.

Picked up the paint and brushes from the model shop.

[Merc Cruzer]

I cleaned the paint off the back of the medallion. Then packed the crest cavity with wet paper to protect the crest while I painted the back. Then my wife repainted the crest. Now to make a new back.

[tubman]

That looks terrific! Sometimes you can even impress yourself; great job!

[Merc Cruzer]

Originally Posted by tubman

That looks terrific! Sometimes you can even impress yourself; great job!

Thank you, I am very happy with how it came out, and that I was able to save an original piece on the car.

[Zeke3]

I agree, that turned out great. Your project to restore the medallion was very interesting to follow.

[Merc Cruzer]

Originally Posted by Zeke3

I agree, that turned out great. Your project to restore the medallion was very interesting to follow.

Thank you. As an FYI, the paints used were Model Master:

4658 - Transparent Blue, gloss
4671 - Gold gloss
4630 - Transparent Red, gloss
4696 - Gloss White

The back of the Medallion was sprayed with Tamiya Color - gloss Black

One trick, my wife noticed, was that if you back lit the plastic casting, when it is face down on a light source, it is easier to see what you are painting. (I had to put the white towels over the light source sine it was too bright when taking the picture.) The light source is a cheap light you get at Harbor Freight for free when you buy something.