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Old 03-05-2017, 12:19 AM   #21
G.M.
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Default Re: '34 Cooling problem

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Originally Posted by JSeery View Post
How about going a little deeper with that explanation GM. It would seem (as a thought exercise) that increasing the flow into the top of the radiator would increase the amount out the overflow and that restricting the flow into the radiator would decrease the amount out the overflow. In this case removing them did seem to correct the problem, but it is not obvious why, at least not to me.
It's very simple, removing the stats that restricted the flow allowed more
coolant to flow through the radiator. Apparently in this case the core was
good and clean and the coolant went through the radiator tubes with none
going out the over flow tube. The coolant is going to the path of least
resistance. I posted about 2 weeks ago about removing 2 36 radiators.
I just got one back from being rodded out and expect the other back early
this week. Both of these had flow problems over 50 MPH. I will do a follow
up post in two weeks when I road test them. I have been installing 24 new
2x2 LED 50 watt drop in ceiling lights where I keep some of my cars. These
are replacing the 4 4' flourecent fixtures. What a difference almost need
sun glasses. G.M.
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Old 03-05-2017, 08:03 AM   #22
Terry,OH
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Default Re: '34 Cooling problem

I have a very similar or maybe the same problem. With original pumps there is no overflow but the engine ran too cold. I installed stats and when the stats opened I had overflow. I lowered the coolant level to just above the radiator core and no more overflow. I then installed Skips pumps and now when the stats open I have overflow again. Lowered the coolant level slightly again to under the top of the core and the overflow has stopped. I believe my problem is due to flow through the radiator and will now have the radiator cleaned out.
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Old 03-05-2017, 08:20 AM   #23
lotsagas4u
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Default Re: '34 Cooling problem

After reading all of this, sure hope my new brassworks radiator solves this problem.
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Old 03-05-2017, 10:49 AM   #24
G.M.
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Default Re: '34 Cooling problem

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Originally Posted by Terry,OH View Post
I have a very similar or maybe the same problem. With original pumps there is no overflow but the engine ran too cold. I installed stats and when the stats opened I had overflow. I lowered the coolant level to just above the radiator core and no more overflow. I then installed Skips pumps and now when the stats open I have overflow again. Lowered the coolant level slightly again to under the top of the core and the overflow has stopped. I believe my problem is due to flow through the radiator and will now have the radiator cleaned out.
Save your money another guy on here just went through the same drill.
Read what I posted about a recovery bottle. The inside size of the 144
tubes added up as I remember was 3.5 square inches and the full flow
through the 2 top hoses is 4.5 . This is like putting 4 lbs in a 3 lb bag.
The coolant NEEDS to be forced through the tubes and in doing this
coolant backs up in the top tank. There needs to be restriction in the
over flow tube and a tight sealing radiator cap to work. G.M.
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Old 03-06-2017, 07:14 PM   #25
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Default Re: '34 Cooling problem

Life goes on! Went to start engine today to drain water and put in anti-freeze. Hit starter and engine locked up on first compression. Pulled plugs. Water in center cylinders on Rt. side. Now the head is off to get pressure tested, hope just that new head gasket didn't seal, or maybe cracked block, UGH. Wife says I should have been this patient when the kids were little! Guess we mellow with age.
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Old 03-06-2017, 08:13 PM   #26
lotsagas4u
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Default Re: '34 Cooling problem

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Wow, sorry to hear that, may luck be with you.
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Old 03-06-2017, 08:35 PM   #27
flatjack9
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Default Re: '34 Cooling problem

It didn't freeze when you had the water in, did it?
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Old 03-07-2017, 04:06 PM   #28
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Default Re: '34 Cooling problem

Didn't freeze. Fortunately it was a warm week.
NEW QUESTION. Going through my selection of questionable heads. Found pair of good looking cast iron. Machine shop just called, drivers side cracked. Went back to check my 11 aluminum ones. Found a pair that had been repaired but look like a possibility. Part #40-6049 A2R/40-6050 A2R Combustion chamber is different and much smaller and would only work with flat top pistons, which the engine has. DOES ANYBODY KNOW WHAT THE A2R is? They are Ford Script with an H next to it. I assume H is high compression? Can't find them in any of my books. Will post a picture.
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Old 03-07-2017, 04:21 PM   #29
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Default Re: '34 Cooling problem

Photo of aluminum head
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Old 03-07-2017, 07:34 PM   #30
koates
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Default Re: '34 Cooling problem

Hi there, Use the cast iron ones. Check them with a straight edge and make sure they are flat. Use copper head gaskets and spray with copper cote on both sides of the gasket. You wont have any more trouble if you go that route. I have cast iron heads on my 34 sedan. They were new aftermarket made in 1946. Never a problem with them. You could paint them silver for that aluminium look. Second hand alloy heads a risky to use in my opinion. New alloy heads are available at some cost. Regards, Kevin.
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Old 03-07-2017, 09:42 PM   #31
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Default Re: '34 Cooling problem

Here is your answer written on a napkin from gene Winfield.
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Old 03-07-2017, 09:46 PM   #32
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Default Re: '34 Cooling problem

Gene Winfield was ask the question how did you guys used to keep those old flatheads cool?" He wrote his response on a napkin and handed it to me.

If you cannot read it..remove thermostats and insert a 9/16" metal washer does the trick and if you are racing then drill a little hole in each water pump blade.
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