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03-05-2017, 12:19 AM | #21 | |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Florida and Penna.
Posts: 4,471
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Re: '34 Cooling problem
Quote:
coolant to flow through the radiator. Apparently in this case the core was good and clean and the coolant went through the radiator tubes with none going out the over flow tube. The coolant is going to the path of least resistance. I posted about 2 weeks ago about removing 2 36 radiators. I just got one back from being rodded out and expect the other back early this week. Both of these had flow problems over 50 MPH. I will do a follow up post in two weeks when I road test them. I have been installing 24 new 2x2 LED 50 watt drop in ceiling lights where I keep some of my cars. These are replacing the 4 4' flourecent fixtures. What a difference almost need sun glasses. G.M.
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03-05-2017, 08:03 AM | #22 |
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Join Date: May 2010
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Re: '34 Cooling problem
I have a very similar or maybe the same problem. With original pumps there is no overflow but the engine ran too cold. I installed stats and when the stats opened I had overflow. I lowered the coolant level to just above the radiator core and no more overflow. I then installed Skips pumps and now when the stats open I have overflow again. Lowered the coolant level slightly again to under the top of the core and the overflow has stopped. I believe my problem is due to flow through the radiator and will now have the radiator cleaned out.
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03-05-2017, 08:20 AM | #23 |
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Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Plainview, Texas
Posts: 757
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Re: '34 Cooling problem
After reading all of this, sure hope my new brassworks radiator solves this problem.
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03-05-2017, 10:49 AM | #24 | |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Florida and Penna.
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Re: '34 Cooling problem
Quote:
Read what I posted about a recovery bottle. The inside size of the 144 tubes added up as I remember was 3.5 square inches and the full flow through the 2 top hoses is 4.5 . This is like putting 4 lbs in a 3 lb bag. The coolant NEEDS to be forced through the tubes and in doing this coolant backs up in the top tank. There needs to be restriction in the over flow tube and a tight sealing radiator cap to work. G.M.
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03-06-2017, 07:14 PM | #25 |
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Join Date: May 2012
Location: PA
Posts: 163
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Re: '34 Cooling problem
Life goes on! Went to start engine today to drain water and put in anti-freeze. Hit starter and engine locked up on first compression. Pulled plugs. Water in center cylinders on Rt. side. Now the head is off to get pressure tested, hope just that new head gasket didn't seal, or maybe cracked block, UGH. Wife says I should have been this patient when the kids were little! Guess we mellow with age.
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03-06-2017, 08:13 PM | #26 |
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Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Plainview, Texas
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Re: '34 Cooling problem
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03-06-2017, 08:35 PM | #27 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Oshkosh, Wi
Posts: 4,516
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Re: '34 Cooling problem
It didn't freeze when you had the water in, did it?
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03-07-2017, 04:06 PM | #28 |
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Join Date: May 2012
Location: PA
Posts: 163
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Re: '34 Cooling problem
Didn't freeze. Fortunately it was a warm week.
NEW QUESTION. Going through my selection of questionable heads. Found pair of good looking cast iron. Machine shop just called, drivers side cracked. Went back to check my 11 aluminum ones. Found a pair that had been repaired but look like a possibility. Part #40-6049 A2R/40-6050 A2R Combustion chamber is different and much smaller and would only work with flat top pistons, which the engine has. DOES ANYBODY KNOW WHAT THE A2R is? They are Ford Script with an H next to it. I assume H is high compression? Can't find them in any of my books. Will post a picture. |
03-07-2017, 04:21 PM | #29 |
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Join Date: May 2012
Location: PA
Posts: 163
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Re: '34 Cooling problem
Photo of aluminum head
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03-07-2017, 07:34 PM | #30 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Melbourne Australia.
Posts: 2,076
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Re: '34 Cooling problem
Hi there, Use the cast iron ones. Check them with a straight edge and make sure they are flat. Use copper head gaskets and spray with copper cote on both sides of the gasket. You wont have any more trouble if you go that route. I have cast iron heads on my 34 sedan. They were new aftermarket made in 1946. Never a problem with them. You could paint them silver for that aluminium look. Second hand alloy heads a risky to use in my opinion. New alloy heads are available at some cost. Regards, Kevin.
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03-07-2017, 09:42 PM | #31 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Dallas
Posts: 582
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Re: '34 Cooling problem
Here is your answer written on a napkin from gene Winfield.
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03-07-2017, 09:46 PM | #32 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Dallas
Posts: 582
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Re: '34 Cooling problem
Gene Winfield was ask the question how did you guys used to keep those old flatheads cool?" He wrote his response on a napkin and handed it to me.
If you cannot read it..remove thermostats and insert a 9/16" metal washer does the trick and if you are racing then drill a little hole in each water pump blade. |
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