Tie Rod Ends

[RalphG]

Checking the front end on the 52 Merc I noticed some slack in the outer right tie rod end. Looking on Rock Auto I don't see any mention of left or right so I'm assuming the ends are identical for left and right. Or am I missing something?
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...OVQIG7TQ%3D%3D

[Sod Buster]

Probably different, one should be reverse threaded I do believe.

[Mart]

My hunch would be that it is correct. The illustrations for all the available ends show a left hand thread. The inner tie rods must have a right hand thread.

You might have to get underneath with a wire brush and see if you can see enough thread to check.

Just for info. The listing for my 57 Thunderbird comes up with exactly the same parts.
So they are not uncommon.

Mart.

[51 MERC-CT]

52-53 Mercury right and left side listed as identical PN in Mercury parts book.

And if you look closely at the Rockauto illustration they appear to be left handed thread.

[RalphG]

Their catalogue does indicate a wide range of applications for that tie rod end. I'm going to check my inventory first as I recall getting some N.O.S. parts many years ago at a Ford dealership auction. No labels or tags on some of them so some measuring will be required. Odd that Rock Auto does not list the inner rod ends. No longer available?

[TJ]

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If there is slack in the tie rod ends you also need to check the idler arm bushings.

[51 MERC-CT]

Originally Posted by RalphG

Their catalogue does indicate a wide range of applications for that tie rod end. I'm going to check my inventory first as I recall getting some N.O.S. parts many years ago at a Ford dealership auction. No labels or tags on some of them so some measuring will be required. Odd that Rock Auto does not list the inner rod ends. No longer available?

Although the ends may be identical looking the main difference is the taper angle to fit different applications. The inner ends may or may not be available from other vendors.

[Flathead Fever]

Count the turns when you take the tie rod ends off so you can put the new ones back on in the same spot. Don't tighten down the nuts yet that hold the tapered ends tight so you can pop them out and make adjustments. The ends might not be identical to the old ones so you can't go by counting turns for the final adjustment but it will at least give you a good starting point for setting the toe-in.

Before you start, adjust any free play out of the steering box and center the box (not the steering wheel)so the gears in the box are centered on their high points which helps the steering from wandering around. Count the turns in the steering box and then put it exactly in the middle. If when your done the steering wheel is crooked, if it is splined wheel you might need to pull it and re-center it. I usually stick them on loose and go down a road flat road with zero crown and re-center the wheel as I'm driving. Remember you want that box centered first and held in that position

Then look at the wheels to see if they are pointing straight ahead. If not adjust each tie rod end until the wheels appear to be pointing straight ahead an each side. Then stick a straight edge across outer the sidewall of the tire on each side. Put something under the straight edges to hold them off the ground about six-inches. That way when you measure between the two sides they will be at the same height so you will get an accurate measurement. Measure between the straight edges directly behind the tires and then again in front of the tires. Without knowing the specs I would set them to 1/16" to 1/8" toe-in.

[RalphG]

Originally Posted by Flathead Fever

Count the turns when you take the tie rod ends off so you can put the new ones back on in the same spot. Don't tighten down the nuts yet that hold the tapered ends tight so you can pop them out and make adjustments. The ends might not be identical to the old ones so you can't go by counting turns for the final adjustment but it will at least give you a good starting point for setting the toe-in.
.

Thanks for all the good information. I may not get at the job for a while now unless we get a rainy day. (Unlikely it seems).

[Tinker]

To my understanding early tie rods are the same. the link in the rod was used to reduce the length. A connection with right left threads. After market ones have reverse threads and no link. But you are talking about a 50.

My understanding anyway. Maybe not.




.

[aussie merc]

generally a link will consist of a central link and two rod ends one r/hand and one left hand this allows this link to be shortened or lengthened with out removing it generally when installed you face forward and install it with the right hand thread to the right hand side how ever take care the last person to install said link may have installed it the other way when replacing the ends i measure the distance between the grease nipples as the actual lengths may vary from different manufactures [a few threads is a large difference]

[scicala]

If you are going with Rock Auto, I would assume they are Chinese manufactured. Don't know if that matters to you or not.


Sal

[JSeery]

Sal, I'm sure it would depend on the item, but I have had very good luck with getting older stock U.S. parts from Rock Auto. I have been amazed as they have been one of the few sources where that has been the case. They seem to buy up old stock on a lot of there parts, you can tell that the container/boxes have been around a while.

[Sod Buster]

When I ordered from Vanpelt the right side was old stuff.