How much rope seal do you leave proud?

[RalphM]

Originally Posted by Fritz

As for the rear main cork seal, I believe the cork pan seal is laid down, then the rear cork seal goes over that. Am I correct with that?

That’s a good way to do it, if the engine is not in the car. And upside down.

[rotorwrench]

A rope seal needs some preload to give equal force all the way around. Factors like gasket overlap can affect it. The Best Graphtite seal is a lot different than a white rope seal so they provide the tool & gauge to get it right. If too much rope seal is hanging out then it may prevent the pan from fully seating. The rope can apply too much choke force on the pulley or crank and may damage the seal after start up. All factors need to be taken into consideration for how much to trim. Pan gasket thickness plays a part. A thick gasket needs more protrusion than a thin one. Use good common sense and keep asking questions when in doudt.

[Ronnieroadster]

Originally Posted by Fritz

As for the rear main cork seal, I believe the cork pan seal is laid down, then the rear cork seal goes over that. Am I correct with that?

Yes if your referring to any early Flathead V-8 engines from 1932 to 1948.
The oil pan rail gaskets have a tang shape that slips into the grove in the rear main bearing cap. Then the cork gasket that fits into the rear main bearing cap grove sits on top of the section of the oil pan rail gasket that is now located in the grove mentioned above.

NOTE Place each end of the cork gasket that goes onto the outer surface of the main bearing cap onto the pan gasket first. Once you do that you now will see the cork gasket on the cap is sitting a bit high it now needs to be pushed/seated in the grove after the outer edges have been set in place.

NOW THE FINAL STEP For additional protection from leaking place a small amount of RTV sealer at the outer areas where the cork on the cap is now sitting on the pan gasket.
Ronnieroadster

[Fritz]

Great instructions. Thanks Ronnie!