Choice of Oil Pan Gasket?

[Idaho Brett]

I've got a bad (paper) oil pan gasket leak and need to order one. I've noticed the replacement choices are cork or paper. I've searched and read the threads about details and installing the oil pan gasket, but which one are most of you guys using and why. Also which vendor? What are your "positives and negatives of each"?

[fiddlybits]

I sometimes spend hours straightening the bent up flanges on oil pans but in the long run it is worth it. Cork gaskets, Permatex #2, lock-washers and not over-tightening the bolts give me a good seal regardless of the engine.

[CarlG]

I prefer to use Snyder's "special compound" cork gasket # A-6781-C, coated with a light coating of lithium grease, bolts (with lockwashers) torqued to about 20 INCH pounds.

[Purdy Swoft]

After cork gaskets have been used, the flanged area of the oil pan will need to be hammered and dollied. Cork gaskets squeeze down where the bolts go and bend the pan flange in the process. I only use the paper oil pan gasket. I use gasket sealer on the block side of the gasket and no sealer on the oil pan side. The tabs at the rear of the gasket must go under the rear pan seal. If the tabs are cut off the gasket and the gasket sealed to the oil pan instead of the block, a weak area will be created at the ends of the rear pan seal and leaks will follow. With paper gaskets aproperly installed and sealed at the block side only, the pan can be removed and the gasket will remain in place and can be reused more than once.

[Dave in MN]

Looks like I am the exception so far...I happen to like the paper gasket sealed to all surfaces. The engines I assemble have insert bearings inside so I don't expect the pan to come off for bearing adjustments. I apply a light coat of Permatex #2 on the pan and pan-rail. The paper gaskets allow you to tighten the bolts down and that pulls the often bent pan tight. The paper gasket, when sealed on both sides, is a one time use application.
When using a cork gasket one needs to not over-tighten...or they will "squish" out the side. Cork gaskets when sealed on one side with Permatex #2 to either the pan rail or pan and greased on the other, may survive taking the pan off and re-installing it a few times.
Good Day!

[James Rogers]

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Originally Posted by Dave in MN

Looks like I am the exception so far...I happen to like the paper gasket sealed to all surfaces. The engines I assemble have insert bearings inside so I don't expect the pan to come off for bearing adjustments. I apply a light coat of Permatex #2 on the pan and pan-rail. The paper gaskets allow you to tighten the bolts down and that pulls the often bent pan tight. When using a cork gasket one needs to not over-tighten.
Good Day!

You are not by yourself Dave, I like the paper gaskets also. Looks like builders mostly use paper but, what do we know.

[redmodelt]

Re; Snyder's "special compound" cork gasket # A-6781-C
If you get the bolt(s) just a little too tight they squish out, used them once and that was the last time. Paper or cork.

[Growley bear]

I prefer the paper oil pan gasket.

[Purdy Swoft]

I avoid all cork gaskets anywhere on the engine because they squeeze out when tightened.

[Tom Wesenberg]

I'll use either one, but on my own engines I've used cork and had no leaks nor other problems, With cork you stop tightening as soon as you see it start to squeeze out. It will be easy to see it move. Recheck the cork after a week, as some cork will take a set and may need a very slight snug after a few days to a week. I put sealer on the block side and nothing, or a light coat of grease on the pan side.

The worst gaskets I've ever had to remove in my life were the paper or cardboard gaskets on my uncle's mid 70's Ford V8. I've used a propane torch to burn off some paper gaskets.