ring and pinion pitting

[roddyb34]

Dismantled our rearend ,found all bearings and races pitted ,ordered a new set of bearings, but ring and pinion also has some pitting ,how much is too much? i will try to get some pics or should i just get a new R&P set?,,

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

The pits really isn't the problem as they will just hold oil. What you need to be looking for is tooth wear, and areas where the case hardening has been worn through. This means the metal will be softer and will begin to wear rapidly. BTW, pits are generally caused by lack of quality lubrication and/or water in the lube. This condition promotes "tooth decay".

[kenparker]

Hi Brent. Serious "tooth decay" ultimately requires plastic teeth.

[Tim]

If the teeth are still square on top you should be fine. Pits are like said before just places for more oil to hang out. In an A you'll be just fine for a very long time. I ran a severely pitted 3:78 in a Hot Rod model T with a 292 in front of it. It never made noise, and I broke the trans. Ford R&P are very tough even in less than perfect shape. A Hypoid set up though has to be very clean.


Tim

[Russ/40]

The extent of the pitting and loss of hardfacing is the issue. Good photos are needed for a trustworthy answer to your question.

[V4F]

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if you have the rear end apart & are restoring this car .... replace with new ring & pinion ! if you are just trying to get it together to sell , leave it as it is . steve

[pat in Santa Cruz]

Originally Posted by steve norcal

if you are just trying to get it together to sell , leave it as it is . steve

but don't expect any of us on this board to buy it.

[Russ/40]

When I did my rear, it was very badly pitted. Thanks to a Fordbarner, I was able to get a good used gear set for a very reasonable price.

[Tim]

If you are replacing them look for a good used Ford set. They are match lapped from the factory and will be the smoothest and quietest.



Tim

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Originally Posted by Tim

If you are replacing them look for a good used Ford set. They are match lapped from the factory and will be the smoothest and quietest.



Tim

Are you sure about this Tim? I know I have a picture that I collected off of Shorpy that shows Model T R&Ps with the pinions in one bin and r-gears in another one without any way of them being "matched. I kinda think I also have a factory picture showing the same for an 'A' R&P too. At the factory I do not think this would have ever been an issue, --and in today's times, if you are using a MARK or Becker gear set, they seemed to be matched too.

Roddy, I think if I were in your shoes, I would replace and then either order a 3.54 or 3.27 ratio. Both ratios do just fine in even the heaviest of Model A's.

.

[Tim]

If you look on the ring and pinions of a factory Ford set you will see an engraved mark or marks on both the ring and pinion. They are "signed" by the craftsman who assembled them. I have found this on the original sets I've pulled out of Banjos. I will look through my stack and see if I can take a picture of the engraved mark on one. This is a heated debate for many of us. I will always seek out a Ford set and will use them over a mix&match set every time. Some guys don't care, they do work. But if you can get an original matched set you're ahead. If you are changing ratios Bret is right on the money about a 3:27 or 3:54 it'll make a world of difference.


Tim

[roddyb34]

thanks for all the replies,,the 3.54 would be the best from what you have said ,taking this diff thing slow ,so it would be good to get it right ,