Snyder's Head Gasket Recommendations or Feedback?

[Idaho Brett]

I found water in my oil (fortunately before starting it). Looks like I need to change the Head Gasket. So I'm going to drop the Oil Pan and clean it out, swab the bottom end while the Oil Pan is off, and change the Oil Pan and Head Gaskets.

Are there any recommendations or feedback about the COPPER HEAD GASKET and COPPER HEAD GASKET SEALANT from Snyder's.

Thanks.

[C26Pinelake]

I ( my mechanic ) used both two years ago and we have not encountered any problems. Wayne

[Keith True]

I think I would look into it before I started ripping and tearing.Is it water? Or,is it anti-freeze?Gets kind of expensive to change things only to find that rain water was going in through the hood hinge,then following a straight line right into the dipstick hole.If the ignition cable clamp was left without a nut on it the head will dome up and let coolant in.You also don't want to spend a bunch of money on parts and then find you have a crack in the roof of the valve chamber. It's not like a modern car where the cooling system is pressurized,and the coolant can be forced into the crankcase under pressure through any flaw.It's pretty much gravity in the A that lets water into places it doesn't belong.

[Mitch//pa]

for sure what Keith said on the ignition cable strap.. even if it was loosened for any reason coolant will get into the crank case....
always drain it down first before lossening a head nut.

looking at your pic i guess you have it torn down already...

i use the Best brand copper head gaskets...

[Idaho Brett]

Yes, I've already taken the head off to have a look and the Head Gasket definitely had lost its integrity and needed to be replaced.

I keep my Model A in the garage so I know it's not rain water. I also don't use anti-freeze/coolant......just water.

Also the first thing I did was drain the Radiator to avoid any more water getting into the Oil Pan. Probably futile at that point.

I'm just asking about feedback on the Snyder's Copper Head Gasket, but thanks for the advice that's been given.

[Mitch//pa]

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i have used them without issue

[Dave in MN]

If the head is a Snyder's head. IMO: Snyder's "B" Head Gasket Copper w/Graphite Core (B-6051-C)
Fits their HC head well and seals well after 3-4 heat cycles. Avoid using antifreeze during the seating of the gasket as the anti freeze will hinder/weaken the sealing. Clear water is best during this process. The gasket will seep a little bit until you put it through the 3-4 heat cycles. The seeping will lessen with each subsequent heating and cooling. Avoid heavy loading or high speeds until you have completed the required heat cycles. I have had zero failures when following the above process.

If a stock Head: IMO: Snyder's Copper Head Gasket A-6051-C With a liberal spray of Copper Coat on each side.

IMO: Checking and maintaining the torque on a head during the first days to a month of its operating life is as important as the actual gasket used. I also believe the torque should be occasionally checked while in service...like every start of the driving season or extended trip. That said, I think I will check the torque on both my A's this weekend!
I know I missed checking the pickup this Spring and I should practice what I preach.
Good luck with your project.
Good Day to all!

[colin1928]

Used heaps of Synders Copper head gaskets no problems
just match the gasket to the head a quick coat of copper spray and your good

[freak]

Every single A I've seen that is actually driven has seepage. I'd be amazed to find a gasket that doesn't seep.

[Greg Jones]

Just curious, what type of gasket was it that failed you?

[Idaho Brett]

Originally Posted by Greg Jones

Just curious, what type of gasket was it that failed you?

I'm not sure what type. It's not copper and needs to be wiped clean to see if there is any manufacture's printing on it. I'll have to post later what I find out.

[john in illinois]

when I have a head gasket leak I always have it checked for warpage and it is usually needs surfaced a few thousandths . They don't clamp the gasket if they aren't flat.

John

[Greg Jones]

Is it the gasket with red silicon sealant perchance?

[Idaho Brett]

Originally Posted by Greg Jones

Is it the gasket with red silicon sealant perchance?

No, there's no sign of any red silicon and I could not find any Manufacturers name or part number on it either.

[glenn in camino]

A or B I always use copper head gaskets sprayed with Copper Coat and torqued to 55#

[Ed in Maine]

As a side comment, I hate to see a freshly painted engine block get corroded from the seepage through the head gasket. This can be stopped by simply taking a rag on your fore finger and putting wheel bearing grease on the rag and rubbing the edge of the gasket in all areas that you can reach and easily see once a year. The grease keeps the coolant from contacting the edge of the cast iron. Use a couple of layers of the rag to prevent cutting your finger on the edge of the copper gasket. Ed

[katy]

If it's only water in the oil, I wouldn't drop the pan to clean it. A good long run after replacing the head gasket will cause any water in the oil to be evaporated.
YMMV

[nkaminar]

I have had the best luck with the graphite gaskets from Best, available from Snyders and others. I use the copper spray gasket sealer.

Clean the block and head meticulously. Use acetone for the last wipe. Fill any deep gouges or scratches with JB Weld and sand flat to the surrounding surface with 220 grit wet and dry paper wrapped around a flat file. Check the fit to the block by setting the head down on the block without a gasket and with some Plastigauge at various places. Tighten the nuts but not only to about 20 ft-lbs. There should be no place greater than 0.002 inch difference than any other place. Replace all the nuts and studs if any are damaged in any way. Use an anti seize on the nuts. If any of the studs go into the water jacket, use a gasket sealer on the studs.

Bring the torque up in 10 ft-lb increments to 55 ft-lbs. Warm the engine then re torque after the engine cools down. Re torque after a hundred miles, then once each year. Re torque on a cool engine. I won't hurt to check the torque more often.

[dansluck]

I use copper head gaskets and spray sealant. I torque to 55lbs run it retorque after running at least 2 more times. Good Luck

[ModelA29]

Originally Posted by freak

Every single A I've seen that is actually driven has seepage. I'd be amazed to find a gasket that doesn't seep.

My Antique Engine Rebuilding touring engine hasn't leaked in 5,000+ miles.