Bellhousing indexing

[GOSFAST]

Originally Posted by jrvariel48

I was speaking to a gent at a car show this week and he brought up bellhousing indexing. I'd never heard of this so I searched it on line and it seems very interesting. I didn't do this to my motor when I installed the T5 trans and I'm wondering if this is one of the reasons I went through a pilot bearing rather quickly. Is this something I should be paying attention to? I'll be installing a fresh motor this fall so that would be the time to do it. It's an 8BA motor bolted up to a T5 with a bellhousing adapter from Speedway with the Ford stamped steel adapter in between. Thanks Joe

Hi Joe, should have reminded you about this earlier, just didn't cross my mind!

The time to "indicate" any bell housing is when the block is basically empty, having to do it on a newly assembled unit is not all that easy, checking AND fixing this could be a real challenge on an assembly!

You do have one other option at this point, should be fairly accurate still, this is assuming all the blocks were machined the same from the beginning. You could check the "runout" on another empty casting using an old crank and brgs, it will be an indicator of how far out the C/L's are at least on that block/housing? It's most likely going to be same on your new build!

You really don't want to rotate the new assembled unit checking the housing without it being "broken-in" beforehand, you risk "wiping" all the cam lube (moly) off the lobes!

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. P.S. Wishing all here a very "Happy New Year"!

[Ronnieroadster]

Joe the only correct way to get the center line accurate is doing it on the block your going to run the T-5 behind doing it with any another block will be a complete waste of time. Any bell housing being used always needs to be accurately indicated to the crank shaft center line especially when using the T-5 or TKO transmissions. When i do it whether its an assembled engine or just a crankshaft spinning in the mains I first check how bad is the original dowel pin location in relation ship to the bell housing center line. When i determine the center line needs to be corrected i then make off set dowel pins that locate back in the block holes not a simple task since the Ford dowel pins are not one diameter they are stepped. The offset pins allow the bell housing to moved around so a good center location can be found. Another way to do it is remove the Ford dowel pins then bolt the bell housing down and using the indicator tap the housing to where you get a good centered reading then drill new dowel pin holes into the bell housing and into the block press in the new pins and then remove the bell housing this way theres no need for special set of offset dowel pins if you dont have a lath to make them. You can call me and I could explain everything to you if you like.
Ronnieroadster

[jrvariel48]

Thanks to everyone that's responding to this post. I think removing the stock pins and setting the bellhousing is a great idea and a good way for me to go Ronnie.
Now, I have the Speedway bellhousing that bolts to the trans and then the stamped steel adapter that goes in between the bellhousing and the motor so getting it just right will be a challenge.

What's the best way to approach this?
Do I dowel the adapter to the bellhousing after it's located?

Or, do I bolt the adapter to the bellhousing and index as one unit?

Thanks again,
Joe

[Ronnieroadster]

Originally Posted by jrvariel48

Thanks to everyone that's responding to this post. I think removing the stock pins and setting the bellhousing is a great idea and a good way for me to go Ronnie.
Now, I have the Speedway bellhousing that bolts to the trans and then the stamped steel adapter that goes in between the bellhousing and the motor so getting it just right will be a challenge.

What's the best way to approach this?
Do I dowel the adapter to the bellhousing after it's located?

Or, do I bolt the adapter to the bellhousing and index as one unit?

Thanks again,
Joe

Joe to save some effort I would leave the Ford stamped steel adapter location alone just bolt it to the block. This way you only need to deal with the Speedway bellhousing location to the Ford steel adapter. Prior to removing the steel adapter dowel pins check to see how bad the center line reading is the readings wont really matter much for the next step but it will give an idea of how far out everything is initially. I always record the run out numbers on the adapter. Once you determine the center line needs to be corrected then remove the steel adapter dowel pins. Next bolt the bellhousing back in place with all the bolts dont tighten the bolts a lot also be sure to use washers under the bolts this will help in keeping things in place for the final step. With the bolts snug but not overly tight you can move the bellhousing when tapping on it with the hammer. Now you can slowly move the bellhousing around until you get it centered. Once you like the center location tighten all the bolts so nothing moves for the next step with the bolts tight you can now drill new dowel pin locations in the area close to the original Ford pin hole Now you can install a pair of straight dowel pins. Being close to the Ford pin area you will have a thicker area of steel to support the new pins.
Ronnieroadster

[jrvariel48]

Thank you Ronnie! That's simple enough for even a dummy like me to understand!! I appreciate the time and info as always! When I get to that point, Ill post some pictures.
Thanks again, Joe

[outlaw]

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Originally Posted by jrvariel48

Thank you Ronnie! That's simple enough for even a dummy like me to understand!! I appreciate the time and info as always! When I get to that point, Ill post some pictures.
Thanks again, Joe

I for one would love to see the pics when you do this. I am installing a t5 in my current project & never thought that this would be a problem. I don't recall anyone one discuss doing this before.

[Pete]

Originally Posted by outlaw

I for one would love to see the pics when you do this. I am installing a t5 in my current project & never thought that this would be a problem. I don't recall anyone one discuss doing this before.

It has been discussed before but not to much extent.
It is however EXTREMELY important.
In the "olden dayz" when I did hot rod street engines occasionally I always insisted the customer bring the transmission in with his block so I could pin them together.
I did them just like Ronnie does except I doweled EVERYTHING together. Even the clutch to the flywheel. A .020 misalignment on an intake manifold can lose you 5 hp.

[Desoto291Hemi]

Hey Pete,,,I sent you an email the other day,,,haven’t heard anything.
It probably went to your spam folder again.

Tommy