Oil Pump Rebuild Question (Solved)

[BillCNC]

Hey All,

Part's have arrived and I'm rebuilding the Oil Pump. Les Andrews Book #1, pg. 228 say's to remove bushing's with a 5/8 modified washer. Well, it's not working. The washers get deformed and start to go through the old bushing. I have made 4 modified washer's now and I have fitted them to just squeak in there and it's a very nice fit all around. I am also using the old pump shaft to drive the washer so it fit's perfectly and is stable.

Am I missing something here?

Regards
Bill

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Bill, the easiest way I have found to do that is to use a 13MM tap (-which is about 0.510" if I recall) and thread it into the bushing. Then use the old pump shaft to come in from the opposite direction and tap the bushing out. They literally pop out that way.

[Chuck Sea/Tac]

Use the size Brent said, because if it’s a little bigger, you’ll break the housing!
Chuck. (used to be a bull in the china shop, now just a calf!)

[BillCNC]

Thank's Guy's,

I was close, ...

I was thinking about tapping it and using a bolt. I wasn't sure if the bushing would hold up and not just bore the center out.

Again, thanks guy's for the heads up on the MM tap and the use of caution while tapping.

Oh, ... Almost forgot, ... anything to watch for when pressing in the new ones?

Regards
Bill

[BillCNC]

Problem,

I looked and I don't have a 13mm tap, nor does Oreilly's, Napa, Autozone and surprisingly McMaster Carr doesn't list them.

Is there a plan C?

Regards
Bill

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

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MSC-Direct.

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

A quick search on eBay shows quite a few offered for under $11.00 shipping included.

[BillCNC]

Yeah, I saw those also, ...

I was trying to get this done this weekend and wanting to find thing's locally.

So I guess I'm back to washers.

Regards
Bill

[BillCNC]

Update:

They are out.

I used a 3/16" metal body shim. I cut one of the legs to size but to get it to rotate and be tight on the lip of the bushing I had so thin the shim down to .093". It still tried to taco on me so for the second bushing I just flipped it. Without the hole in the center one has a chance with the washer method described by Les Andrews. With a hole, ... It's not going to happen.

Marching Forward

Regards
Bill

[BillCNC]

Hey All,

The Oil Pump Screen that was on the car is clean and in perfect shape. I also bought a new one and it's not the same as the old one. The new one has a much finer mesh and the ends have 1/8" of solder sealing the mesh.

The old one has a larger mesh and is built of a heavier gauge wire. The ends are folded over onto itself. And appears to be made of Copper.

Questions;

1) Are they both after-market?
2) Wouldn't using the larger mesh have better oil flow?

Regards
Bill

[Railcarmover]

Run one of these...and the big mesh

[ursus]

Originally Posted by BRENT in 10-uh-C

Bill, the easiest way I have found to do that is to use a 13MM tap (-which is about 0.510" if I recall) and thread it into the bushing. Then use the old pump shaft to come in from the opposite direction and tap the bushing out. They literally pop out that way.

Brent's suggestion also can be employed in removing the bushings from a Model A or B distributor.

[BillCNC]

Railcarmover,

That would be nice but I'm trying to keep the original look.

Regards
Bill

[BillCNC]

usrus,

I have a spare distributor that I'll be rebuilding in the future. Thanks for the heads up.

Regards
Bill

[BillCNC]

The shaft fit's the bottom bushing fine but the top one need's reaming as I cannot get the shaft in from either end of that bushing.

What is the diameter of the reamer that is needed?

Regards
Bill

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Originally Posted by BillCNC

What is the diameter of the reamer that is needed?

Regards
Bill

Basically 0.500" HOWEVER just because you reamed it to 0.501" does not mean the distributor shaft will go all the way thru simply because the two bushings may not be in alignment with each other.

[Tom Wesenberg]

I've never drilled or reamed bushings for the distributor. I buy a new shaft and bushings from Bratton's, then oil the shaft and stick it in my lathe and burnish it in. I remove the shaft, wipe off the oil and repeat. After about 3 to 5 minutes, the shaft will spin nicely with your fingers. I then clean it and oil it, then assemble everything. My distributor still has no slop after many miles over the past 20 years.

[30 Closed Cab PU]

Berts sells a rebuilt core, with just the Bushings and the shaft already fit into to the core/bushings. Then you add the extras like plates/points/condenser/cam/cam screw etc. There is an additional $35 core charge refundable if you send in your rebuildable core.

[Terry, NJ]

The problem is that we don't know what your capacities are. Myself, I made small drifts for distributer bushings. With a lathe just turn a .500 pilot and create a shoulder to push against the bushings, tap tap with a hammer and it's out. BUT, If you don't have access to a lathe, you're kind of stuck. However, it seems to me I recall seeing some 1/4" threads in the end of these shafts. How about fastening a couple of washers over .500 in dia. and grinding them till they just fit the bore. That assumes you have a grinder.
Terry

[BillCNC]

Update,

Well the job's done and it's all back together awaiting to be installed on the car.

The top bushing which I installed first didn't go in as smoothly as I wanted and the bottom went in perfectly. The top might have been distorted slightly when installing and that's the one that the shaft didn't want to go through. My .5" reamer was to short to make it through both holes so I took it to a tool grinding/sharpening shop literally 1 block from me, .. I even walked there.

I showed the guy the part and he said he would ream it for me which he did. When it came time to pay, he asked what the part was for. I told him it was for my 31 Model "A" and he immediately pulled out his phone and started showing me pictures of his buddies Model "T".

Well 20 minutes roll by and I asked him again what I owed and he said, ... "It's on the house"!

Look's like that rabbit-hole was quickly filled, ... and now on to the next.

When working on our old car's, does anyone else get the feeling were just going down one Rabbit hole after another?

Regards
Bill