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#1 |
Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Lehi, Utah
Posts: 60
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Getting ready to fire up the 29 coupe this week for the first time after a full engine rebuild and entire car restoration. Any tips or directions to a good checklist would be really appreciated. Being a new guy in the ring I am really nervous. My grandfather wants to help as it was his car when he was young but he is more of a hindrance than help I am afraid. I have the wiring all complete and working, fuel lines all set, and everything greased and oiled. My concerns are oil distribution in in the newly rebuilt engine, carburetor adjustment, and how to properly break in the engine. Bud Cheney in Idaho Falls did the engine for me so it was a fantastic rebuild but I installed everything. I finished up the front windshield yesterday without too much cussing so I am ready to move on to something a little more challenging.
Hope it starts. |
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#2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: So Cal
Posts: 7,210
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I think the best person to answer your question about engine break in is Bud Cheney.
Did you pour a quart of oil down the distributor hole in the head before you installed the distributor to get some oil in the valve chamber and bearings before trying to start the engine? Bob |
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#3 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Michigan / Ontario border, Sarnia, Ontario. 50 miles from Detroit and 150 from Toronto.
Posts: 5,800
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Do what the rebuilder tells you to do! Nobody else's opinion matters. Wayne
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#4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: brentwood, ca
Posts: 3,151
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Is the motor too tight to turn over with the starter?
Get some instruction from the builder on breaking procedures. A little marvel mystery oil in each cylinder from the spark plug hole just before startup. Also ask the builder about rechecking the torque on the head bolts. |
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#5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Temecula, CA
Posts: 3,438
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Do as Bob C says, immediately before start-up. pm me if you want info from a chapter in my book on bangers.
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#6 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Central, IL
Posts: 3,929
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oil down the dist hole is important as is oil in the pan oil the distributor bushings is important a drop or two on the generator bushings (i think they have a hole or cap) belt tensioned correctly add water to the radiator and have a screwdriver handy for pesky leaky hose clamps carb adjust is idle air 1.5 turns out and GAV (knob in car) 1/2 turn out and it should start. Will have to tweak them once its running but should start and run at those settings. but yes as THE most important do whatever your engine re-builder recommends. he will probably recommend checking the head nut torque after its been running for awhile and cools down so have a torque wrench handy to start have the following in the correct positions: fuel on, key on, spark advance (left lever) all the way up, right lever (accel) should be about 1/2 way down, pull choke lever out fully and hit starter button after 1 sec or so push choke lever fully in. Should cough if not start. if it doesnt may need to choke/crank longer.
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#7 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Mpls, MN
Posts: 27,480
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"oil the distributor bushings is important "
First time I've seen that mentioned before the first startup, but very important. I like to add a little oil to my first tank of gas. It may not be needed, but it never hurt and it makes me feel better about the break-in. |
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#8 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Central, IL
Posts: 3,929
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ask your engine rebuilder how long oil changes should be AND how soon you should do the first oil change! First oil change is very important as it contains all the tiny filings and bits of metal from everything breaking in. He may recommend two oil changes early on to flush out all that grit.
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1929 Model AA - Need long splash aprons! |
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#9 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: 60 miles west of Chicago
Posts: 475
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"Used to be" startup instructions REQUIRED that you take it easy for the first 500 miles. That allowed the babbit to burnish and get slick. I remember a moment -- at about 500 miles from rebuilt -- that the engine would gain strength and smoothness. That was back in the day when main and rod bearings were poured and line bored. "Now adays" the engine builders are using insert bearings. After start up (and after you are sure you have oil pressure) you just hop in and drive.
BIG difference in break in recommendations. |
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#10 |
Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Lehi, Utah
Posts: 60
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Bob I was planning on doing that but I can't get in touch with Bud Cheney. He must be out somewhere so I wanted to go an opinion on here. I have broken in new engines on other cars but never an engine this old. The carb adjustments and any other tricks are what I really need.
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#11 |
Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Lehi, Utah
Posts: 60
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That is all fantastic advice and exactly what I was looking for. Thanks gentlemen. I will let you know how I make out.
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#12 |
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Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: FRESNO, CA
Posts: 12,560
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With plugs OUT, spin it over a few times to oil its' internals, run it at a fast idle for awhile, then drive it normally! It'll be OK.
Bill W.
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"THE ASSISTANT GURU OF STUFF" |
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#13 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Michigan / Ontario border, Sarnia, Ontario. 50 miles from Detroit and 150 from Toronto.
Posts: 5,800
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Wait for the rebuilder to return. You can't be in that much of a hurry! Wayne
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