6 volt starter install question

[haystack]

I am about to install a rebuilt 6 volt starter on my 48 ford f2 and need to know the position of the gear teeth on the starter shaft before I reinstall or does it matter how it lines up !ive downloaded two pics of the two positions of the gear if you can please tell me which position to use to install. thank you!

[drolston]

It does not matter, but it may wiggle into place easier with the gear close to the spring and away from the flywheel. Be sure to use the little bracket that attaches under the head of one of the through-bolts to the oil pan. That minimizes starter torque flexing the starter on the mounting surface, and jamming the gear on the flywheel.

[Russ/40]

Just an FYI, the starter gear goes toward the front of the car when the starter spins. When the car fires, it throws the gear back to the rear of the car.

[haystack]

thank you very much gentleman ,im on it!

[haystack]

ok guys got the new starter in and got a brand new 6 volt battery BUT when i hook up cables, it automaticlly starts to crank on me so i pull the cables back off quickly! it's never done this before what could be going on. FYI i did install a different starter solenoid (12v) but someone told me a 6v and a 12v starter solenoid are no different same hook up! could that be a problem>?

[Phil Gillespie]

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Originally Posted by haystack

ok guys got the new starter in and got a brand new 6 volt battery BUT when i hook up cables, it automaticlly starts to crank on me so i pull the cables back off quickly! it's never done this before what could be going on. FYI i did install a different starter solenoid (12v) but someone told me a 6v and a 12v starter solenoid are no different same hook up! could that be a problem>?

Look on the side of the solenoid it should be marked, presume you are positive earth. Would seem by the immediate starter action you my be hooked up incorrectly. As the solenoid provides the earth contact to complete circuit for starter motor to operate.
Phil NZ

[drolston]

The hook up for 6v versus 12v solenoid are the same, except that the 6v solenoids expect to connect to negative battery terminal and have a positive ground. Also the coil that pulls in the solenoid will not have as strong a pull on the on 6 volts.

Go back to your old 6v solenoid or get a new 6v positive ground solenoid.

[JSeery]

There are many different starter solenoids that operate differently. The 6v Ford solenoid is controlled by applying a ground path through the starter button. Most of the 12v solenoids require a positive power source through the starter button or ignition switch on later models. Most 12v solenoids do not work the same as the original Ford style.

[adileo]

Probably not the case but, when I installed a new solenoid few years back, I over tightened the nuts on the solenoid and experienced the same thing as you. If all else fails loosen the nuts a bit.

[Bob C]

Like JSeery said which solenoid do you have, here are nine to choose from.


Bob

[1931 flamingo]

Does your sol have a button on the bottom??
Paul in CT

[haystack]

ok gents thanks again for your time, i apparently had a momentary lapse of reasoning , i hooked up the the wrong battery cable to the opposite side it was suppose to be on the solenoid "DUH!" it stopped my automatic starting cranking problem for sure, but starter button isnt working so im having to hot wire to get it to start. i think starter button is junk.

[leon bee]

Originally Posted by 1931 flamingo

Does your sol have a button on the bottom??
Paul in CT

I've bought a couple new Echlin solenoids with that button. Work great and I love that button.

[cas3]

i like the button too, didnt know they still made them

[leon bee]

Yeah, I got 2 of em from NAPA.

[JSeery]

Originally Posted by haystack

ok gents thanks again for your time, i apparently had a momentary lapse of reasoning , i hooked up the the wrong battery cable to the opposite side it was suppose to be on the solenoid "DUH!" it stopped my automatic starting cranking problem for sure, but starter button isnt working so im having to hot wire to get it to start. i think starter button is junk.

Put this in my earlier post, guess you missed it. The 6v and 12v sol are NOT the same and they wire up differently!

A little more detail. The 6v uses a pushbutton that is a ground path. It has one connector on it and grounds through the button housing.

The 12v (the most common type anyway) require a power feed and a pushbutton with two connections. On these the button housing is insulated. One lead goes to a power source and the other one to the solenoid.

[haystack]

no this one does not but the last one i broke did have it and their very convienant.

[haystack]

this 12v i installed appers to me to have exact 3 bolts a 6v does that is what is puzzling me why its stamped 12v

[haystack]

i will do that asap thank you

[haystack]

i need to polorize the voltage regulator again im sure after switching batterys, (F to B ..look for spark and all that.) my book says generator regulator 30 to 33 amps. can i go beyond the 33 amps say up to 40 or more or not incase i need to replace it? right now my amp gauge move just a hair slightly to right when i start truck. i would think it should move more with anew battery or something.

[JSeery]

Originally Posted by haystack

this 12v i installed appers to me to have exact 3 bolts a 6v does that is what is puzzling me why its stamped 12v

You need to know what the terminals do, how they are connected internally. You can check it with an ohm meter. A ground activated solenoid will have the center terminal connected to one of the side terminals (the side the battery cable connects to). And it will not show a connection to ground.

The other common style (which is power activated) will not show any connection to either side terminal and will show a connection to ground. Until you know which style of solenoid you have they is no way to know how to wire it up correctly.

[JSeery]

Originally Posted by haystack

i need to polorize the voltage regulator again im sure after switching batterys, (F to B ..look for spark and all that.) my book says generator regulator 30 to 33 amps. can i go beyond the 33 amps say up to 40 or more or not incase i need to replace it? right now my amp gauge move just a hair slightly to right when i start truck. i would think it should move more with anew battery or something.

It should move less with a new battery! The ammeter is showing the current flow to or from the battery, not the generator output. With a good battery with a full charge it should take very little current flow to keep the batteey charged.

[Bob C]

What is the part number of the solenoid you are trying to use??


Bob

[drolston]

Originally Posted by haystack

ok gents thanks again for your time, i apparently had a momentary lapse of reasoning , i hooked up the the wrong battery cable to the opposite side it was suppose to be on the solenoid "DUH!" it stopped my automatic starting cranking problem for sure, but starter button isnt working so im having to hot wire to get it to start. i think starter button is junk.

My starter was flaky intermittent for a while. It turned out to be a bad contact between the starter switch and it's hole in the dash.

The starter button has two spring clips that hold it in place in the dash. If there is paint or corrosion on the hole where the clips contact, the button may not provide a complete ground. Reach behind the dash to compress the springs and pop the starter button out. There is a fair chance the wire to the switch will touch the dash and run the starter as you do this, so be sure the transmission is in neutral, or disconnect the battery. Then clean the contact area on the hole in the dash and on the switch.

[JSeery]

Originally Posted by drolston

My starter was flaky intermittent for a while. It turned out to be a bad contact between the starter switch and it's hole in the dash.

The starter button has two spring clips that hold it in place in the dash. If there is paint or corrosion on the hole where the clips contact, the button may not provide a complete ground. Reach behind the dash to compress the springs and pop the starter button out. There is a fair chance the wire to the switch will touch the dash and run the starter as you do this, so be sure the transmission is in neutral, or disconnect the battery. Then clean the contact area on the hole in the dash and on the switch.

All true, but only for a solenoid that is activated by a path to ground. It it requires power to activate then it needs a two terminal insulated pushbutton.

[haystack]

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cant figure out what the hell is going on with my(48 ford f2) i can"t really believe it can be the starter either, ive replaced the 6v starter solenoid, new battery,starter,and just ordered a new voltage rugulator from ebay couple days ago to see if thats any difference. it first fired up ok when i installed the new battery with some starting flud , ran it afew minuets then went to start it again and all i got was was a slow grinding crank and now it wont even try and turn over acts like battery is totally dead again. i get lights ok, but no crank no clicking no nothing. ive taken off cables replaced them and cleaned them still nothing.it acts like something is zapping the battery somewhere .im at my wits end.,im misssing car shows and dumping money into it without results.

[Tinker]

Battery have load ratings. CCA.



Didn't read this from the beginning but a new battery might work till you figure out your issues. Or at least get it load tested (free at most autozones, etc. Not sure if they can test a 6v) Certainly pull a lead off the battery every time your not driving, if you have a short.


But it could be a lot of things going on here.


12v battery should be fine if the rest is fine. 12v solenoids from a late 50s ford work fine on a early conversion.


Have you jumped the starter?





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