Is this possible?

[Peter J]

Hey Guys,
After putting my engine back together, I think I still have a bent rod judging from the noise. I hate like hell to pull the head again since I got a real good seal, no leaks etc. Has anyone tried (or is it even possible) to
get to the wrist pins and remove the rod(s) from the bottom? I would pull the pistons down to access the wrist pins, pull them out and remove the rods thus not having to pull the head?
Has this been done or does it sound like more work than it's worth?
I have a B with counterweights to boot.

Thanks,
Pete

[Drive Shaft Dave]

You are a going to have to bite the bullet and pull the head.

[Mike V. Florida]

Sound like more work than it's worth!

[Peter J]

Ya know, the more I thought of it, the more I agree with you guys. I think I'll file this under wishful thinking but a real crackpot idea. No way their is enough clearance to get any tools, much less your hands up there. Think I'll wait till this winter and do it right.
Thanks Guys!
Pete

[JoeWay]

Hang on...Kevin in NJ will be along to tell you how to do it. He replaced a rod on his car from below years ago.

The counterweights will be moved off to the side while you are pulling the piston down, so I would think they won't be in the way.

Joe

On edit--Whoops--Kurt in NJ, not Kevin.

[Kurt in NJ]

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I replaced #3 rod in mine, it must be close to 20 years ago now, i put another rod under the seat so I wouldn't have another failure, I don't have a counterbalabced crank ---I would say that if it was counterbalanced --not possible to remove from below.

I turned the crank so I could pull the piston as far as it would go, turned it about 45 degrees, used right angle snap ring pliers for the clip, then using the snap ring pliers on the end of the pin I put side pressure on the rod and rotated the rod and pliers together to walk the pin out of the piston ( if you still have centerlock pins this method won't work)--there is onl;t a short space between the rod and piston, it took a few resettings and short movements to get the rod out.

For your problem it could be to your advantage to do it the normal way, the skirt wear on the pistons will give you the evidence of alignment of your rods ---if the ears on the skirt is on one side at the top, and the other side on the bottom the alignment is off, if the wear is even the rod is probably straight enough.
If the rods come back as straight, but the pistons show bad alignment it could be that the cylinders were bored crooked

I have seen bent rods move the wrist pin out on their own--push the clip out, the wrist pin won't come out all the way---the cylinder wall stops it for a while