Hood Latch Protectors

[rlh37ford]

Have any of you fellas found a good substitute for the inferior hood latch protectors available from the good Model A vendors. I just tried installing a brand new set, & half of the sleeves split open on the side even before they were half way in final position. I tried letting some of them sit in the sun to maximize flexibility; still split. I’d appreciate any ingenious yet simple solutions. I have a brand new paint job I’m trying to protect.

Thanks, Dick.

[Y-Blockhead]

Good Morning Dick. I recently had the same problem, altho I'm trying to protect an old paint job. The ones you get from the vendors is JUNK.

What I did for my solution is to use heavy Duty electrical shrink tubing. The kind with the glue inside. Let it overhang the end so end shrinks and glues itself together. then you can trim the ends.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#shrink-tubing/=tltpay

I use the moisture-seal shrink tubing with glue inside for installing any electric connectors. Not only moisture proofs but strengthens the crimp by bonding to the insulator and connector.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#shrink-tubing/=tltrj1

[Kurt in NJ]

Do you have original hood latches, or the repros, the repros i have seen had much larger tips with sharp edges, the metal is not formed fully with sharp edges and xtra metal ---

[rlh37ford]

Originally Posted by Y-Blockhead

Good Morning Dick. I recently had the same problem, altho I'm trying to protect an old paint job. The ones you get from the vendors is JUNK.

What I did for my solution is to use heavy Duty electrical shrink tubing. The kind with the glue inside. Let it overhang the end so end shrinks and glues itself together. then you can trim the ends.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#shrink-tubing/=tltpay

I use the moisture-seal shrink tubing with glue inside for installing any electric connectors. Not only moisture proofs but strengthens the crimp by bonding to the insulator and connector.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#shrink-tubing/=tltrj1

Y-Blockhead: I see this as a viable solution & worth trying. Thanks, Dick

[rlh37ford]

Originally Posted by Kurt in NJ

Do you have original hood latches, or the repros, the repros i have seen had much larger tips with sharp edges, the metal is not formed fully with sharp edges and xtra metal ---

Kurt: I did use repro latches, but they have no sharp edges. Of course, the cross section of the latch nose & handle may be a tad larger than OEM. The repro protectors when on at least half way before splitting & so sharp latch ends aren't the problem. The plastic used for the protectors is simply inferior; no question about this. ~Dick

[Tom Wesenberg]

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The only repro latches I've seen look cheap and exactly as Kurt said, with the large sharp edge.

[taffrail]

On 30-31's , mount the hinge of the latch on backwards and it won't hit the fenders, 3/16" vinyl thread protectors work on the tips, but not for long.

[Bruce of MN]

I wonder if black plasti-dip would do the job?

[Reds34]

I was thinking of plasti dip too.

Red

[rlh37ford]

Thanks for the ideas fellas & for the comments regarding sharp edges on repro latches. I now have a solution(s) to pursue for my current repros. And I can continue to seek 4 originals in good condition. Again, thanks to all. ~Dick

[Tom Wesenberg]

I see you are in the home state of the Hershey swap meet in early October. That's where you will find 4 original latches along with tons of other parts.
Admission is free, but the parking and food will sure make up for that.

[rlh37ford]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

I see you are in the home state of the Hershey swap meet in early October. That's where you will find 4 original latches along with tons of other parts.
Admission is free, but the parking and food will sure make up for that.

Tom: Yes, I've been doing Hershey since 1957. I remember when there were only two rows of vendor "tables" on each side of the road along the east side of the old stadium. I will be looking for latches.