Car died will not start

[billybronco1]

Took out the 31 Model A today, is pretty warm maybe 85 degrees, drove about 20 miles here and there and the car seemed to run normal except for a few skips or sputters towards the end. I pulled into the driveway and it died, would not start. I let it sit for a while still nothing, so we pushed into the garage and went of for the day to a cookout. I thought maybe the heat had something to do with it. When I can home the car was sitting for about eight hours, still will not start, does not even a little. Almost sounds like it lost its spark, tomorrow I will dig into it. Any ideas?

[goodoldvic]

Maybe your points closed up

[Marcus]

BillyBronco1: while I am certainly no expert, the exact same thing happened two weeks ago on my 29 CCPU ( Except I did not make it to the driveway ). Replaced the coil, and he fired immediately. No problems since - I hope you have the same luck!

[mhsprecher]

Could be a variety of things: bad condenser, stuck float valve, loose wires on the junction box, loose coil wire, distributor problem, etc. The Les Andrews book has a diagnostic procedure. Get a buddy who knows Model As and try and figure it out, doing the easy stuff first.

[mike657894]

mine did that. it was the coil also.

[1crosscut]

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First thing I would check is to make sure the coil wire has not come out of the coil or distributor.
If not get the voltage meter out and start checking.

[Cornishman]

When my A died unexpectedly last week it had no spark, neither the lights nor horn would work yet the distributor, lights and horn all showed 6.5 volts on a voltmeter. Following advice replacing the dashboard loom and ammeter solved the problem.

[tbirdtbird]

does it crank?
does it have spark?
does it have fuel?

diagnostics needed........

[captndan]

Got gas?

[C26Pinelake]

Check simple stuff before you go on a replacement spree! Wayne

[Terry, NJ]

It happened to me yesterday, I had the car out for a ride, got home, running fine. I turned it off and it wouldn't start again. I had plenty of gas! There was nothing to indicate that the points had closed. I let it cool off and tried it again. I don't know why, but I advanced the timing and presto! It started. Which kinda blows my mind because if the points were closed at zero advance why was ok to start with a small (?) advance?. But I adjusted the points to my visual .020 and it ran fine.
Terry

[Tom Wesenberg]

Side play in the top plate can throw off the points opening.
Keep the center hole and three outer tabs well greased to help eliminate wear.

[billybronco1]

No spark - Okay as a few have mentioned I think its the coil. According to what I have read the volt meter should show with everything disconnected .75 -.81 across + and - and I read 1.3 meter set on 200 and from the center to + and - should read 10K - 11K and I read 6.8K meter set on 20K. It could be the original coil as it still has the Ford script on it. Does this sound about right? I know that heat can kill a coil and it was hot yesterday. The coil was pretty warm to touch not sure if that's normal.

[Tom Wesenberg]

I wouldn't bet on the coil being bad. Very few coils fail, but if you left the key on and had the points closed with the engine not running, then the coil can be killed by overheating. Also if the points gap is very small this gives too large a dwell, which can also overheat a coil.

Stop the engine with the points open and key on, then short the points contacts off and on with a screwdriver and see if the coil wire gives a hot blue spark when held 1/4" from a head nut.

[billybronco1]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

I wouldn't bet on the coil being bad. Very few coils fail, but if you left the key on and had the points closed with the engine not running, then the coil can be killed by overheating. Also if the points gap is very small this gives too large a dwell, which can also overheat a coil.

Stop the engine with the points open and key on, then short the points contacts off and on with a screwdriver and see if the coil wire gives a hot blue spark when held 1/4" from a head nut.

Tried that got nothing at all

[billybronco1]

Are all 6 volt coils the same, can I just buy a six volt coil from Napa or do I need to get a special one rated for this car from Mac's or some place? Will miss the Ford logo but don't want to spend $65

[Mitch//pa]

It could still be other things.. Get a testlight and start checking the basics for power and ground.. This can be done at the coil while operating the points.. Don't just shot gun parts.

[billybronco1]

Well I figured worst case I would end up with a spare coil. I just bought a coil and same results. No high voltage output. It has six volts on both sides of the + and - . At points when open only 1.75 volts.

[Mitch//pa]

With the key on and points closed ((they must be clean or try shorting as tom mentioned))you should only have power on one side of the coil..
Possible issues if you still have power at both sides
Ignition switch
Armored cable
Lower plate wire..

[29Cabriolet]

This may be a long shot, but I had the same symptons. It turned out to be a loose wire on the ignition switch behind the instrument panel.