Drag link removal

[Jim M]

Following the manual took out the cotter pin and then tried to unscrew the end of the drag link. Don't think it has been out for a L O N G time. Used PB Blaster and tried hitting the end of the screw driver to set up a vibration. Last try I used a 3/4 in wide chisel in the screw slot with an 18" wrench on the shaft and still didn't want to loosen up. Should I try the "smoke wrench" to it. I don't want to hurt or break anything. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I searched the threads and didn't find anything.

[jmeckel]

I would use a rosebud on a Oxy/actele torch the idea is to heat the part red hot fast so that the heat does not heat up the surrounding area too much. just after it cools to a dull red, try turning the slotted part with a good sized screwdriver and possibly a wrench to help with the turning. You could also try heating it red hot and then dumping cold water on it to shock it loose.

[Fred K-OR]

Jim, the vendors sell a wrench to use to "try" to get this off. (If you have the Mac's catalog it is on page 28, bottom left hand corner) In your case, this wrench may not work but it is not to expensive (about $5) and it may work. If you have a model A club close by, they may have one. Also can you get the pitman arm off the sector shaft? If you could it may be easer to work on. Another thing you may try is if you can get the other end of the drag link off and if you can get the pitman arm off, then you could take the whole assembly to the bench and work on it-maybe trying what Jon says above.

[Tom Endy]

Some of the suppliers carry a tool for unscrewing the ends of the drag link and tie rod. It has a ridge that neatly fits into the slot in the assembly. It is used with a 1\2" drive socket wrench. For a stubborn removal you could use a breaker bar or an impact wrench.

Tom Endy

[steamgas]

i bought one of theses tools and it was a total wast of money.the metal was nowhere the qulaity of american made parts.when i put pressure on it the end just rung off.i may have applied 30 lb's torque.another china part too never buy again.ask where it was made before you buy it.

[Mitch//pa]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

the tool from the suppliers makes the job much easier than trying to use a large screwdriver

[Hook]

I had the same problem last year. I ordered the tool with the large slot from one of the vendors. I got enough pressure on it to break it, so if you buy it don't put too much pressure on the tool. I had a SnapOn large bladed tool for half inch breaker bar that didn't break. I had mine off the car with the pitman arm and still couldn't get it loose. I used a saw on it to finally save the pitman arm, but thought I could buy a new drag link from the vendors. They were all out of them, and the manufacturer had gone out of business. Bert's had a used one and was the only source.
I don't have a good torch, so maybe more heat and/or the heat/cold water would have gotten it loose.
Good luck and let us know the outcome.
Larry

[Tom Wesenberg]

I bought an early front end at an auction and wanted to save every part. I first got the tie rod red hot and tried my good tie rod plug tool and it wouldn't budge. Then I got the part orange hot and it still wouldn't budge. I got it white hot and the part twisted out of shape, so I never could save it. I also can't get the early king pin locks out of the front axle.











e

[CarlG]

The tool I use is pretty much like what Tom Endy shows above in post # 4. Mine is made by Snap-On. Been using it on various cars for 40+ years, still looks new.

[columbiA]

Try using a big hammer as a back-up on one side of the D-L & hit the other side with a good penetrating oil.Don't use WD-40 as it does'nt work very well.

[columbiA]

Ignore my last reply.Spray some good penetrating oil-not WD-40 as it does'nt work well. Then use a large hammer as a back-up,hit the other side with a hammer,working your way around as much as possible.Don't be afraid to hit it hard. If you don't have an oxy-acet outfit,then get one & you will wonder how you got along without it.

[Gold Digger]

Had the same problem last year and couldn't find my old drag-link tool. Made do with a re-ground chisel but have been looking at swap meets and flee markets for old Snap-on drag-link tools and haven't found but two.

[scrapiron]

You can also cut a piece of 1/8 flat steel to fit and use an adjustable wrench.

Try to tighten in first to get the plug moving, clean out the threads with a small wire brush, like welders use.

[FL&WVMIKE]

If I remember right, one end of the tie-rod has left handed threads. A counter clock-wise turn would actually make it tighter. Something I worked on, had that.
MIKE

[d.]

Sears (Craftsman) also sells this removal socket 1/2" drive...works good.

[Tom Wesenberg]

[QUOTE=FL&WVMIKE;711000][B][FONT=Comic Sans MS][SIZE=4][COLOR=darkslateblue]If I remember right, one end of the tie-rod has left handed threads. A counter clock-wise turn would actually make it tighter. Something I worked on, had that.[

This is true for the rod, but for the end plugs, they are all right hand thread.

[tdlmomowers]

Get a good quality Drag Link Socket. Make up some penetrating oil by mixing acetone and ATF in a 50-50 mix. Let the penetrant work for awhile. Try soaking a shop rag with the penetrant and wrapping the rag around the drag link. Take 2 large hammers and use one for a backup and hit with the other. Work around the perimeter of the link. Apply more penetrant, allow it to work. If this doesn't work, then you need to try heating the outer part of the drag link until it is cherry red. Try to concentrate the heat on the outer surface of the drag link, you don't want the plug to heat up as hot as the outer surface. Patience, patience.

[FL&WVMIKE]

[QUOTE=Tom Wesenberg;711097][QUOTE=FL&WVMIKE;711000]If I remember right, one end of the tie-rod has left handed threads. A counter clock-wise turn would actually make it tighter. Something I worked on, had that.[

This is true for the rod, but for the end plugs, they are all right hand thread.[/QUOT

[SIZE=4][FONT=Comic Sans MS][COLOR=darkslateblue]
Tom .................
Of course. .......... Brain Fart.
[B]MIKE

[Mike V. Florida]

Never had a problem with the tool I bought years ago from Bratton's.