Spider install

[Gooseloony]

Have installed a repro spider using existing switch plate and switch body. The tabs on the spider are not engaging the switch plate slots even when tried off the column; and when installed in the column the lever at the steering wheel goes around 360^. Do you think it's because of a repro spider being used with an "existing" (not sure if it's original) switch plate?

[Joe K]

Possibly you have the wrong switch rod for your column? A 2 tooth steering rebuild using the "standard length" shaft can screw up the relationship between standard switch rods and steering column shaft. One has to be VERY careful to match the pressed into worm steering shaft length to the original shaft.

Although some have had issues with the spyder itself. See about getting an original from Berts or somewhere else before you mess with the switch rod.

The switch plate shouldn't make the difference as the spyder engages the slots in the moving parts of the switch itself. The position of the face of the switch plate is set by the upper switch body and the relative positions of the upper plate surface and the fingers in the upper switch body can't change.

The issue HAS to be between the spyder/switch part interface. Either spyder fingers are not long enough, or you have the wrong/mis-matched rod.


Joe K

[ericr]

Joe I am not sure that is what he is saying, I think he is saying the ears of the spider will not fit into the slots of the lower switch housing......

[Gooseloony]

Good news is I everything back together, the switch lever at the steering wheel seems to be working in position 4, 5, 6 and 7 o'clock BUT bad news, lights work at 4 (bright), 5 (no lights), 6 (off), 7 (parking--except only one parking light comes on (it worked before)). I've taken the switch housing apart probably 5 times now to look for loose connections and found nothing. What am I doing wrong?

[ericr]

the repro bulbs are notorious for conking out for no reason.

[Joe K]

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Originally Posted by Gooseloony

Good news is I everything back together, the switch lever at the steering wheel seems to be working in position 4, 5, 6 and 7 o'clock BUT bad news, lights work at 4 (bright), 5 (no lights), 6 (off), 7 (parking--except only one parking light comes on (it worked before)). I've taken the switch housing apart probably 5 times now to look for loose connections and found nothing. What am I doing wrong?

Its actually sounding like the switch is properly sync'ed. So you're missing low beams (5) and part of parking (7)

It's gotta be in the connections.

Check the bullet ends of your wires where they plug into the plugs on the back/underneath of the housings. Repop harnesses have these "crimped on" connectors which are NOT the proper shape (they don't engage the plastic filler piece sufficiently to retain contact) and are wont to get corroded where they're crimp fastened to the wire.

One of the suppliers (that Harness guy in Rhode Island?) sells "machine turned" bullet ends which are original design and can replace the crummy crimped bullets by use of a soldering iron.

Yunno, the bullet ended/filler plastic/plug connector receptacle idea was NOT Henry's best. A lot of us for reliability of the headlights simply do away with the filler plastic and route the wires DIRECTLY into the headlight housing. Once inside, they cut the bulb socket harness and using solder connectors and shrink tubing make the electrical connection permanent - and functional.

Yes, I admit mine are set up like this - but I promise to change - truly...(contrition mode on.)

Once the headlight wire conduit is landed, the modification can't be detected - well, very hard anyway. And it makes the headlights MUCH more reliable. Well, that the theory based on the vagaries of metal to metal surface electrical contact, which the solder eliminates.

You can unplug the headlight conduits and check your electrical connections directly from the bullet ends to ground with a meter or another light bulb? Methinks it's probably OK?

Well, hoping this adds to your process of elimination.

Joe K

[Slowplane]

...possibly you have the rare Lucas 3-position switch "OFF-DIM-INTERMITTENT"

[700rpm]

Originally Posted by Slowplane

...possibly you have the rare Lucas 3-position switch "OFF-DIM-INTERMITTENT"

Rare? Every Lucas switch I've ever encountered worked -and I use that term loosely- like that.

[Dollar Bill]

I once heard Mr. Lucas referred to as "The Prince of Darkness". Was having my first cup of coffee at the time and almost choked from laughing so hard.

[Brobrian]

Originally Posted by Slowplane

...possibly you have the rare Lucas 3-position switch "OFF-DIM-INTERMITTENT"

Hilarious!