What is it

[Heavy Duty]

I am installing the torque tube on my 38 Ford. It is filthy dirty with dried up grease and who knows what. Half way down there is a grease fitting and under it is either some kind of a grease seal or bearing.What in the world is it? I cant get it clean enough to see it and so far i cant drive it out. The drive shaft is scored at that point so i feel it should come out so i can make repairs.

[rotorwrench]

When Ford changed over to the solid drive shaft in 1937, they had to put a damper bearing in there to keep it from whipping. All of the later ones have it in there. They are replaceable. Here is a link for info. https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=23729

[Walt Dupont--Me.]

Check with Vanpelt, he has that center bearing and a driver to remove and install new bearing. Walt

[Heavy Duty]

Thanks everybody. Always good people trying to help here. John

[G.M.]

Here's Skips instructions for replacing the center bearing
with his replacement center bearing. G.M.

[19Fordy]

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Heavy Duty:
I replaced that center bearing last year. Was fortunate to find a NOS bearing - not cheap. The OEM center bearing is encased in rubber to absorb the "whipping action" of the drive shaft. It is held in place by it being " pulled and squeezed" into position inside the drive shaft. The rubber had dissolved by coming in contact with the gear oil running down the drive shaft from the banjo rear. ( The car has a "rake".) First photo is the mess that came out of the torque tube. 2nd photo is the OEM bearing with the "goo" removed. 3rd and 4th photos are the replacement OEM bearing (Part # 78-4658). Fifth photo is a seal that you can install to prevent gear oil from draining down the torque tube. Since you have to remove the drive shaft, it would be a good idea to install this aftermarket seal, IMO. To install the OEM center bearing you need a special puller/install tool. You don't need that tool with the aftermarket bearing seen on Fordbarn. Sixth photo shows the new and improved clam shell seal sold on Ebay. Be sure to reinstall the torque tube bolts into the exact same holes they came out of using non-hardening Permatex as these bolts have a higher class interference fit to prevent leaks and insure a tight fit. Do not use other bolts and do not "chase" or wire wheel the threads. Solvent is ok. The safety wire shown is not done like the OEM safety wire. A few more thoughts. If you decide to use the "red" after market banjo seal shown below you have to "vent" the rear axle tube shown in 8th photo. Vent shown is homemade, but aftermarket are available. Also, since you have to remove the torque tube, it would be a good idea to replace the front torque tube grease seal B-4245. Replacement bearings are available, but if the OEM front bearing is good, reuse it as replacements are of questionable quality. Refill the clamshell with John Deere corn head grease. Take plenty of photos as you perform replacement procedures. Last 2 photos show home tool to remove and install OEM center bearing. I have lots more photos if you need them. I pulled the rear (not the engine) for this experience.