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01-24-2019, 07:24 AM | #1 |
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Brake assembly, Roadster
Hello everybody,
Thank you for correcting the brake shoes in the other post. The end of the shoe was very bent. I made it nice around like on the other side. I thought it was a deliberate modification. I put the brake back off and bend the ends straight. The pins I put in the other way around. I have to take the drums off again anyway, because the wheel bearing surfaces are rusted and I put race bushings (MAC's A1115RK) into the hub.
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Beste Gruesse aus Deutschland, Werner Ford Model A, Roadster, 1928 Citroen 11 CV, 1947 Hercules W 2000, 1976; (with NSU-Wankel Rotary Engine), Canadian version |
01-24-2019, 09:37 AM | #2 |
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Re: Brake assembly, Roadster
Werner~
You might want to taper the ends of your brake linings a little more. Or maybe they already are, but the picture just doesn't show it. A relatively minor thing. |
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01-24-2019, 12:56 PM | #3 |
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Re: Brake assembly, Roadster
Hello Bill,
do you mean to slope grinding of the brake pad on the approach side in the direction of travel? YES, I have done that in the meantime. I am very surprised how hard the lining material is. Dull file now.
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Beste Gruesse aus Deutschland, Werner Ford Model A, Roadster, 1928 Citroen 11 CV, 1947 Hercules W 2000, 1976; (with NSU-Wankel Rotary Engine), Canadian version |
01-24-2019, 04:06 PM | #4 |
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Re: Brake assembly, Roadster
Yes, that's what I meant.
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01-26-2019, 03:29 PM | #5 |
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Re: Brake assembly, Roadster
Hello,
Today I opened the rear brakes again. The crooked shoe pad just bent, smoothly filed and coated with lubricious varnish. The hinge pin from the parking brake linkage is now mounted upside down and correctly split from the rear. Behind the bottom hinge pin I layed a copper washer. Therfore is to be sure more distance to the drum's inside. - Now I have to press in the hubs repair the repair surfaces and get the shock absorbers of the customs-stock free, then the newly sprung rear axle is finished.
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Beste Gruesse aus Deutschland, Werner Ford Model A, Roadster, 1928 Citroen 11 CV, 1947 Hercules W 2000, 1976; (with NSU-Wankel Rotary Engine), Canadian version |
01-26-2019, 06:22 PM | #6 |
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Re: Brake assembly, Roadster
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see post #15 on the below thread https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showt...28#post1720328
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1931 160B & 1931 68B If you don't have time to do it right the 1st time, how do you have time to do it the 2nd time? |
01-26-2019, 06:43 PM | #7 |
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Re: Brake assembly, Roadster
In the attached photo note the position of the cotter pin on the Pin Emergency Brake Toggle Lever. The cotter pins need to be inboard so they do not rub against the brake drum. The return springs in the attached photo are incorrect, your springs are correct.
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1931 160B & 1931 68B If you don't have time to do it right the 1st time, how do you have time to do it the 2nd time? |
01-27-2019, 10:38 AM | #8 |
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Re: Brake assembly, Roadster
Hello,
I understood what you mean. But I can not pull all wrong built in hinge pins backwards, because some push against the rear plate. And I can not unscrew this anchor plate, because 1 nut is turned around at the edges. Therefore I put a rubber O-ring and a previously raised aluminum washer from behind. Now the hinge pins are loosely pulled backwards. In the picture with the applied ruler you can see that there is about 1/4 inch clearance. Also the recessed washers and the O-ring can be seen well.
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Beste Gruesse aus Deutschland, Werner Ford Model A, Roadster, 1928 Citroen 11 CV, 1947 Hercules W 2000, 1976; (with NSU-Wankel Rotary Engine), Canadian version |
01-28-2019, 05:11 PM | #9 |
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Re: Brake assembly, Roadster
Good evening,
is this greasy felt ring still necessary when a modern simmering is mounted? Tanks for answer in advance.
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Beste Gruesse aus Deutschland, Werner Ford Model A, Roadster, 1928 Citroen 11 CV, 1947 Hercules W 2000, 1976; (with NSU-Wankel Rotary Engine), Canadian version |
02-04-2019, 04:03 PM | #10 |
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Re: Brake assembly, Roadster
Hello.
I opened the rare brake again. Because I have only just understood that in the drum of the cam shaft the cam piece must slide. I checked that. It's rusted very hard. It can not be solved. Hot air, creeping oil, copper hammer do not help. The removal is very much expensive. Because the lever pins have been welded too on both sides. The rollers turn loose and the brake pads are easy to adjust. Does anyone see a problem to keep it as it is? My idea is that the front brake must apply the greatest force. Since I'll install the equalizer in the front brakes. Thanks at all in advance!
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Beste Gruesse aus Deutschland, Werner Ford Model A, Roadster, 1928 Citroen 11 CV, 1947 Hercules W 2000, 1976; (with NSU-Wankel Rotary Engine), Canadian version |
02-05-2019, 05:12 AM | #11 |
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Re: Brake assembly, Roadster
So these bits are rusted together?
It will stop the brakes from equalizing. Might be hard to get the rear brakes to operate evenly. Brake linings may wear unevenly. They will either work right or they won't. |
02-05-2019, 07:37 AM | #12 |
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Re: Brake assembly, Roadster
Hello,
Yes, exactly, these parts are rusted together. I thought about it and order the balancers and also the lever arm. Because I have to saw off the lever.
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Beste Gruesse aus Deutschland, Werner Ford Model A, Roadster, 1928 Citroen 11 CV, 1947 Hercules W 2000, 1976; (with NSU-Wankel Rotary Engine), Canadian version |
02-05-2019, 09:19 AM | #13 |
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Re: Brake assembly, Roadster
there is no need to have that felt and washer on the axle, with that in place you CANNOT grease your wheel bearing using the zerk fitting on the back. when your spider is bent like that, someone had used the parking brake for an emergency brake. you need to pull the whole backing plate off and repair it correctly.
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02-05-2019, 10:12 AM | #14 |
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Re: Brake assembly, Roadster
Werner, are you sure the arm pins are welded? Usually they are peened with a hammer, and may look like a weld. Try grinding the ends off of the pins at both ends and pushing them out with a hammer and punch. May be able to save the arms. With the park brake arm off and the brakes removed, you should be able to rotate the arm all the way, and remove the backing plates from the car
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02-05-2019, 04:36 PM | #15 |
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Re: Brake assembly, Roadster
Hello!
I would like to thank you in this forum for the good advice! Actually I wanted to do something to make it too easy for me. But now I have dismantled the complete anchor plate. I saved one connection rod. As described in the forum, the heads are filed flat, drilled in and the shaft driven out. Thanks at all! The wheel bearings do not need to be relubricated! Modern lubricating greases are designed for lifetime. In addition the tracking of grease is very bad if the old grease can not escape.
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