Quick Jack Car Lift

[Synchro909]

Originally Posted by CarlG

I would never ever use concrete blocks to support a car.

When I read an earlier post sying he uses cement blocks, I was going to post the same. It is a BIG no no.
If a cement (actually, it's concrete. Cement is only an ingredient of concrete) is given a shock or overloaded os it cracks, its strength goes from 100% to 0% in a micro second where as wood will mostly retain its strength. There is less chances of wood (unless it is oily) slipping too.
For your own sake (and your family), DON'T DO IT!

[Jeff/Illinois]

Originally Posted by PalAl

................... Personally I would save a few more hard earned dollars and purchase a good 4-poster, I could stand under the car to work on it in comfort, perhaps it would be safer and you could store another ???? on top or bottom. They even come with drip trays..... if your A drips!

I'd favor this route also, if your garage can fit one.

[CT Jack]

A pair of car ramps placed under all 4 wheels will raise the car higher than the Quick Jack, also be safer and only cost about $80.

[shew01]

I was wondering about the stability myself. I don't think I would feel comfortable without Jack Stands. But then again I have never seen a Quick Jack in person either.[/QUOTE]



It’s quite stable. It has automatic locks.


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[77Birdman]

I have seen a couple of guys make homemade stands out of blocks of 2 x 4's. Every other layer is placed perpendicular to the previous layer. Much the same as cribbing whilst raising a building. You can go as high as you like. the last layer has the blocking going cross ways opposite the direction of the wheels which keeps it from rolling.

[Nedco]

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Anumber of opinions about Quick Jack, anyone using MaxJax for Model A vehicles. My shop has 10.5' ceiling. (1930 four door Murray body and 1931 truck)

[Mike the Grump]

Originally Posted by Nedco

Anumber of opinions about Quick Jack, anyone using MaxJax for Model A vehicles. My shop has 10.5' ceiling. (1930 four door Murray body and 1931 truck)

Don't own one. I've considered one. My concern has always been the unknowns with the concrete slab. I guess if I had built the building that would help but otherwise I would opt for a four post. (unfortunately that wont fit in my garage.)

[LEM]

I’m going to put this on my Christmas list.

www.ezcarlift.com

[jimcarl]

Originally Posted by LEM

I’m going to put this on my Christmas list.

www.ezcarlift.com

I like the looks of that! Let us know when you get one and how you like it!

[Y-Blockhead]

Originally Posted by LEM

I’m going to put this on my Christmas list.

www.ezcarlift.com

I'm wondering if this type of lift will even work on a Model A. Looking under my car I have a muffler and brake rods that look like they may be in the way. I assume you would have to use some sort of blocks to avoid them??

By my calculation, it will only lift the car 8". My frame is 18" off the ground just sitting.

Somethings to think about...

[daren007]

If you have a "pit" hide it from your insurance company.

[30 Closed Cab PU]

Originally Posted by Y-Blockhead

I'm wondering if this type of lift will even work on a Model A. Looking under my car I have a muffler and brake rods that look like they may be in the way. I assume you would have to use some sort of blocks to avoid them??

By my calculation, it will only lift the car 8". My frame is 18" off the ground just sitting.

Somethings to think about...

Perhaps make/attach some spacer blocks to between the car and quick jack?

[jimcarl]

Originally Posted by Y-Blockhead

I'm wondering if this type of lift will even work on a Model A. Looking under my car I have a muffler and brake rods that look like they may be in the way. I assume you would have to use some sort of blocks to avoid them??

By my calculation, it will only lift the car 8". My frame is 18" off the ground just sitting.

Somethings to think about...

They have this picture in their gallery and mention 6" blocks:
https://www.ezcarlift.com/gallery/fo...odel%20A-2.jpg

[alexiskai]

Looks like EZ Car Lift has a version for the Model A that you would order that has 45" cross-members and 6" spacer blocks. This places the lifting platform exactly under the frame on both sides, clearing the low-hanging chassis components. Costs $60 extra.

They also sell a caster accessory kit, so you could put the car on the lift and then roll the whole thing across the garage or into a storage niche.

Neat product, glad to know this is out there if I need it.

[shew01]

I got under my 31 Victoria today and started positioning my Quick Lift (it’s a 5000 lb model) under it to see if it would fit. Technically, the lift would probably fit, but you would need to be careful to dodge the muffler and brake pushrods. Since the frame of the car is already so high, the lift isn’t going to do much lifting. I’ll stick with my jack stands.


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[shew01]

My Victoria frame is 17” off the ground. The lift comes with 8 rubber blocks to go between the lift and the car. You can pick the 4 short blocks, the 4 tall blocks, or stack the blocks on top each other. Using the tall blocks, the lift will only push the jack point 18.5”. If you stack the short blocks and tall blocks together, the lift will push the jack point 20.5”. So, for me, if I use the Victoria frame as the jack point, the Quick Jack only pushes the car up 3.5”. Here are some pictures. The first one shows the auto-locking mechanism.

I use the Quick Jack for all my modern cars, but I don’t think I’ll bother with it on the Victoria.




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[CHuDWah]

Originally Posted by Synchro909

When I read an earlier post sying he uses cement blocks, I was going to post the same. It is a BIG no no.
If a cement (actually, it's concrete. Cement is only an ingredient of concrete) is given a shock or overloaded os it cracks, its strength goes from 100% to 0% in a micro second where as wood will mostly retain its strength. There is less chances of wood (unless it is oily) slipping too.
For your own sake (and your family), DON'T DO IT!

^THIS!^

When I was young and foolish (as opposed to old and foolish like now ), I jacked up one corner of 39 Ford and put a concrete block under it. The block cracked as soon as I let the car down enough to put weight on it. Yeah, a 39 is heavier than a Model A but still...

Fortunately, no part of my body was under the car or the block.

[Alaska Mike]

The build up of fumes and gases in a pit are well documented. The solution is to install a "propane drain". The name comes from the fact that propane is heavier than air and will fall to the lowest point. All you have to do is install a regular 3 inch drain in the pit floor, minus the trap. The pipe would run to the outside, just like any other drain with proper slope. You don't tie it into any other lines, just so it drains out over the hill some where. The fumes "drain" out just like water or any other liquid. Some municipalities require it for a regular garage or anywhere vehicles are stored.


This is also why most municipalities require the gas water heater to be installed at least 24 inches above the floor in an area where vehicles are parked, like a garage.

[Hunter]

Hi Y-Blockhead!

I have a QuickJack and it works great on my modern cars and a 65 Corvette. I bought it mainly to use on my 29 Model A Coupe and the 65 Vette. I love the QuickJack, but could not make it work on the Model A. The Quickjack needs parallel frame rails in order for it to work. At the front of the Model A that I have the frame rails move closer to each other. The muffler also interferes with the placement of the QuickJack.

I don't have the height in my garage for a regular lift, so I thought this would be a good choice. Happy with the purchase, but it doesn't work on my Model A.

Thanks - Hunter

[corvette8n]

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=256084
I use mine on my '41 coupe, my ceiling is low so I can only lift it to the first notch, left it this way all last winter, no problems at all. I don't know anyone with a model 'A' so I'm not sure what combination of rubber blocks or adapters you would need.