Weard leaks

[hazelhoff]

My rebuilt engine hasn't run yet. A month ago I filles the cooling system using distilled water and some Bardahl protector. Today I find 'something' is leaking from the head gasket, all around the engine. The stuff dripping down is brown and sticky. Is Bardahl eating my copper head gasket ? Any ideas ?

[J Franklin]

Sometimes coolant seeps through the filler material in the gasket to the outside of the block. It most likely is not a problem but is unsightly. An old-timer fix is to seal the edges of the gasket water passage edges before assembly. After you get it running and do a few re-torques on the head nuts it probably will not continue.

[hazelhoff]

Thx J.Franklin, my head gasket is from Mac's, some 30 years ago. My guess would be the gasket filler material doesn't handle the modern additive to the cooling water. The additive created lots of small channels to the outside of the block. Once they were there, clear coolant is coming out. So my guess would be the residues I found earlier (brown and sticky) are filler material resolved by the cooling water additive I used. If so, we should put a warning out not to use any unsafe additives ???

[30 Closed Cab PU]

Perhaps using a modern copper gasket is advisable?

[J Franklin]

I wouldn't change a thing unless you have to after running the car for a while and doing the re-torques.

[chap52]

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Run it and re-torque before you tear into it. Some of those additives need heat to help them seal properly. Chap

[1crosscut]

While I'm not familiar with Bardahl I looked it up on line and found two products on their website that were for cooling systems. One was an anti rust (rust remover) and water pump lubricant. The directions for it were to add it to the coolant, run it for 15 minutes, let the system cool, drain the solution and then refill with a standard type coolant mixture.
The other was a stop leak product that is to be added to a coolant mixture.

If one of these is what you used with just distilled water I'm thinking you may have inadvertently allowed considerable rust to form in the block. Have you drained some water to see what it looks like?

Seems to me that putting water into an engine and letting it rest for an extended period without running it through several heat / cool cycles and re-torquing until the head gasket settles in opens the door for the gasket to leak.

Putting a 50/50 coolant solution into an engine is one of the last things I do just before start up. I see no reason to put in a stop leak product into a new rebuild to fix a problem that probably is not there.

[J Franklin]

I agree with 1crosscut drain the solution from the block until you are ready to run your car. You can store it in a jug. I use a powered stop leak product to stop gasket weep.

[hazelhoff]

1crosscut,
You are right. not intended for permanent usage. Too bad there were no instructions on how to apply. Dutch description make it look like you can leave this stuff in.
This stuff seems to be very agressive. I drained the sysstem and will have to put a new headgasket in.

[katy]

Did you check the cylinders?

[hazelhoff]

Katy, not yet, will do. I am hoping the shape if the copper head gasket is such that the gasket filler is not in touch with the cylinder space.

[30 Closed Cab PU]

Originally Posted by J Franklin

I agree with 1crosscut drain the solution from the block until you are ready to run your car. You can store it in a jug. I use a powered stop leak product to stop gasket weep.

If leaving it for a while after draining, perhaps thoroughly flush/backflush with water, or water/dawn, or white vinegar to insure nothing gets left in the motor?

[1crosscut]

Originally Posted by 30 Closed Cab PU

If leaving it for a while after draining, perhaps thoroughly flush/backflush with water, or water/dawn, or white vinegar to insure nothing gets left in the motor?

I like the idea of flushing the engine / radiator prior to removing the head.

[J Franklin]

Do you really want/need to remove the head? It just seems to be a premature operation before running and a couple of re-torques. The filler material does not reach the cylinder bores or valve area, just the water jacket holes.

[hazelhoff]

Will flush tomorrow ! Good idea thx

[Tinbasher]

I had the same thing with my engine. After I run it 5 times and re-torqued the head 5 times as the builder told me to do. The sealant stopped coming out between the head and the block. Wait until you do this. Save yourself some grief.

[100IH]

All gaskets that are layered or thick composition will settle (sink to being thinner) with heat and cooling cycles. That's why the re-torque is important.

[hazelhoff]

J.franklin, thats what i need ! I will flush and then change the gasket, what the heck ! I do'nt want to live with the idea my gaseket in not ok!

[30 Closed Cab PU]

Am not sure what the Bardall would do if it got in the radiator, especially if left in for a long time, not familiar with it. Possibly either coat the tubes, or plug it up - causing running hot or boiling over?

[J Franklin]

Originally Posted by hazelhoff

J.franklin, thats what i need ! I will flush and then change the gasket, what the heck ! I do'nt want to live with the idea my gaseket in not ok!

Why do you think the gasket is bad? I am saying do not remove the head until you have a running engine and know you need to change the gasket. At least 2-3 heat/cool/re-torque cycles.