found in diff, damn.. Help!

[Talkwrench]

Whilst doing my yearly diff and trans oil change today , I stuck my little finger in just to make sure there's no small stuff in the bottom.. Aaww crap felt something big and fished this out for the diff!
Guys help me out here as I think its been like this for some time, there has been no noises vibrations etc so what part is it ? And what the hell am I going to do next?

[Terry,OH]

What year Ford differential?

[Mart]

Is it something to do with the small bearing that supports the nose of the pinion?

It might be worth reminding us which back axle you are using.

Oh yeah, I keep meaning to ask. Is your dog ok?

Edit: I found a post with some info, including a link to a hi-res pic of the bearing.

http://www.earlyfordv8.org/forum/vie...=18&topic=4956

Mart.

[retep]

Likely culprit - 4625 Bearing- driving pinion- pilot type.
Introduced by Ford in late 1933. This is why you can still drive. If not replaced you will cause wear on ring and pinion and probably your pinion cone set.
The part you have retrieved is just one of the end plates that holds roller bearings in place.
Sorry but your going to have pull your rear axle.

keith

[Terry,OH]

Yes It is the bearing end plate from the pinion pilot bearing. Basic Ford part # 4625.

[Ken/Alabama]

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Looks like you will also need to replace the steel retainer plate that holds that pilot bearing in place. This fix will require a complete disassembly of the rear axle including removing the pinion. I've had this to happen to me once and the rollers came out and wreaked havoc on my Columbia.

[Talkwrench]

Its in my 35 pickup however I wouldn't know the exact year of the diff... Mart sooty is fine, bit mental but fine..
Retep, so for the time being can it still be driven or can the roller bearings now float free?
I think I'm going to need more help with this guys such the best way to remove the diff.. Diagrams? Also if it major and I'm halfway there the gearbox can come out too and I'm on a steep learning curve.. Heaven help me..

[JM 35 Sedan]

Originally Posted by Talkwrench

Its in my 35 pickup however I wouldn't know the exact year of the diff... Mart sooty is fine, bit mental but fine..
Retep, so for the time being can it's still be driven or can the roller bearings now float free?
I think I'm going to need more help with this guys such the best way to remove the diff.. Diagrams? Also if it major and I'm halfway there the gearbox can come out too and I'm on a steep learning curve.. Heaven an help me..

I would suggest not driving your truck any further than absolutely necessary. We can talk you through most anything you will need to do to remove the rear and rebuild it. If the trans needs attention, this is probably a good time to go through that as well.
There have been a few recent posts on removing and rebuilding banjo rears here on Fordban. There is also a good insructional post with pictures on the HAMB.

[BrianCT]

Here is one post, that JM mentioned but the pictures do not appear on my computer anymore.http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=462776

[john in illinois]

Tom Endy has a good tutorial on banjo's. It is Model A but a lot applies to V8's too,except for the end pinion bearing. Good tips to save time such as setting preload all on one side to start with and using guide studs and nuts to hold gaskets to assemble for tests.

LINK http://www.ocmafc.com/techarticles/T...0Re-Edited.pdf

John

[Talkwrench]

Thanks guys keep it coming. I will have a ring around today and see if I can find someone here in Perth that I can lean on.. Guess I will start tomorrow after work.. Let's start with diff removal.. I'll read what I can, Tips? ; (

[Talkwrench]

Thanks for the links guys. I had a ring around but most of the guys I have spoken to have had limited experience with these early banjos, hoping I have better luck today, I am off to get a spring spreader after work and the fun shall begin..

[JM 35 Sedan]

I will do a little leg work on finding some posts that may be of some help to you.....

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showth...o+rear+rebuild

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showth...o+rear+rebuild

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showth...o+rear+rebuild

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showth...o+rear+rebuild

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showth...o+rear+rebuild

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showth...o+rear+rebuild

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showth...o+rear+rebuild

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showth...o+rear+rebuild

[Talkwrench]

John you legend !
I'll probably call Lawrie tonight ask him how to get started too.
AHhh the joys...

[retep]

Sorry for late response. I only come on every so often.
I just finished doing my differential 4.11 to 3.54 .
Like you it was my first and so I sought ou t what I could find.

Tom Endys article is a great help. I didn't have a device to hold axle while reassembling but was able to use large enough table vice to hold axle housing to assemble as he suggested. This made it easy and I would do what you have to make it possible.
I only used two 2 cut bolts for keeping gaskets lined up and as guide for putting banjo and other halve will setting up. Had no problem. when you get to setting presets (3 in Toms article) because you don't have tools there different suggestions to follow. When you get there lets talk again.

As for removal from vehicle its not to tricky. I read from "early V-8 Ford Service Manual" ,Clymer Publications Chapter XI V8 Car Rear Axles.
It covers removal and reassembly. These are old Ford articles and most of the tools they use are no longer available.
I disassembled my rear axle and took it to a machine shop where they had presses that could remove the pinion set,differential bearing cones and replace same all at same time. Remember I was replacing my diff and installing all new bearings and races. Cost $150. It was worth it.

When you have axle apart you should evaluate condition. If all you need is to replace pilot bearing it shouldn't a whole lot.

Read what you can and stay in contact.

Keith

[Lawrie]

Talk wrench ,we will be in WA in a couple of weeks.
Let me know if you need a hand.
Lawrie

[Talkwrench]

Thanks Keith, will do, I'll try do updates.

Lawrie Im hoping to be done by the time you get here.. However Im going to tackle the gearbox as well so maybe not ; o P Send me your number in the meantime..

I may have a little luck after ringing around without much luck I did get a contact who I rang last night. He's a retired guy and has done them [diff] and gearboxes before and the best thing is he is only 5 mins away in the next suburb..

Almost had the diff out last night but was not in a hurry, hubs are off etc just need to spread the spring and shes out.

CAn I get someones tip on removing the gearbox?

[Talkwrench]

The diff is out and when separating the torque tube and drive shaft found the sleeve and splines are shot, the pins [or heads] where gone or someone just didn't install news ones when its been apart in the past.. Now what aghh?!

[Old Col]

....now what?, you need to go shopping for another rearend in better condition than that one. Looks like it's a '37 thru '40 rear that's in it and it should have a center grease point in the torque tube for the driveshaft bearing, which helps to positively identify it. It's always a struggle to find decent rear axle parts here, so don't shell out for a rearend without first popping off the left side housing so you can slide the axle and diff assembly out to inspect it,and also remove the torque tube to make sure the splines on the pinion end and driveshaft and coupler aren't worn out like yours are. Good hunting,Col.

[JM 35 Sedan]

From what I can see in your pictures, the driveshaft and coupling splines look shot. The pinion splines may be ok. You need to disassemble the entire rear and determine what's good and reusable vs. what is not reusable. You may not need a complete new rear, but if you go in that direction, a '35 - '40 would work. I actually prefer the construction of the earlier rears with a tubular driveshaft.