40 banjo case damage, how much is too much?

[rehpotsirhcj]

Another banjo newbie question..
I noticed when pulling my banjo apart that it has been handled roughly at some point. It has some vice marks on the gasket surfaces, and a small area of galling, maybe where a bar was used or something. Not sure what they would have been reefing on. Anyway, I’d appreciate any thoughts. Am I overthinking this, or should I be looking for a new center section?
Thanks much.
-Chris




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Ken/Alabama]

I wouldn’t be afraid of it as long as there aren’t any cracks. Rub a flat file over the affected areas to make sure there’s nothing protruding above the flat gasket surface.

[cas3]

agree with ken, just take off the high spots

[ford38v8]

I also agree, do not machine the surface, only run a file over the high spots, however, the one area that shows damage from a hammer? is likely to leak if left like that. I'd suggest some filler of some kind... Bondo, solder, whatever, followed by the file again to level it off. Also, do not run a tap through the threads, as they are meant to be tight to prevent leaks.
When setting the backlash, it's helpful to use two sets of gaskets, the first as a dummy to be sacrificed to the setup by splitting, thereby negating the complete removal/install/removal/install of the bolts for each trial. No sealer is required of the final assembly other than the thread sealer for the bolts.

[Talkwrench]

Could you use something like JB weld then file it back nice and flat, those gaskets are mighty fine.

[Bored&Stroked]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Flat file it and use a bit of gasket sealer and you should be fine. The gaskets will probably seal it just fine (without sealer), but it would not hurt to put a bit of thin sealer on those areas. Truth be told, I use a bit of sealer on all my rear-end rebuilds - and definitely on the threads of each bolt.

[Ford Freak]

Originally Posted by Bored&Stroked

Flat file it and use a bit of gasket sealer and you should be fine. The gaskets will probably seal it just fine (without sealer), but it would not hurt to put a bit of thin sealer on those areas. Truth be told, I use a bit of sealer on all my rear-end rebuilds - and definitely on the threads of each bolt.

x2 !

[deuce_roadster]

Due to the "quality" of previous work, make sure the pinion race hasn't spun in the banjo. That should be a pretty tight fit, should have been hard to remove. I usually use a lot of bridging and do it in my press but there is a KRW tool that removes this race.
IF you find more issues, a good banjo should be very easy to come by. Most of us have several sitting around in our shops.

[rehpotsirhcj]

Thanks guys, great information. Happy to hear it might be salvageable, I was already checking out shipping rates for replacements .
I’ll soak it and look closely for cracks and then use a flat file as suggested.
Points taken also on the test vs final set of gaskets and the light use is silicone.
Thanks again, I learn something new every time I open this forum.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[JM 35 Sedan]

I'm guilty of having way too many good useable banjo rear housings sitting around in my shop. I'm planning to make some lights/lamps out of some, but will hold on to a small quantity incase someone needs them more than I do.

[uncle max]

Originally Posted by rehpotsirhcj

Thanks guys, great information. Happy to hear it might be salvageable, I was already checking out shipping rates for replacements .
I’ll soak it and look closely for cracks and then use a flat file as suggested.
Points taken also on the test vs final set of gaskets and the light use is silicone.
Thanks again, I learn something new every time I open this forum.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Silicone is not your friend.

[rehpotsirhcj]

Originally Posted by uncle max

Silicone is not your friend.

So, I’m not clear on this. When I think sealer, I generally think blue rtv. Seems reasonable insurance against weeping or other small leaks. What am I missing?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[rehpotsirhcj]

Originally Posted by JM 35 Sedan

I'm guilty of having way too many good useable banjo rear housings sitting around in my shop. I'm planning to make some lights/lamps out of some, but will hold on to a small quantity incase someone needs them more than I do.

Lamps are overrated. if this goes south you should sell me one.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Floyd]

all of the above is good advice. Also use the original bolts. Just clean them up with a wire brush , paint them and you are good to go.

[ford38v8]

Originally Posted by rehpotsirhcj

So, I’m not clear on this. When I think sealer, I generally think blue rtv. Seems reasonable insurance against weeping or other small leaks. What am I missing?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Locktite PST 592 is a good all purpose automotive thread sealant. There are others, of course, with other characteristics, this one has what you need for differential bolts, water jacket head studs, brake, oil & gas lines. All temperature, stays pliable. Also, I see no reason why this wouldn't work for the damaged spot on your diff. Importantly, I think, only on that one spot, not all over, as that would change the effective thickness of the gaskets, which are shims as much as they are gaskets.

[JM 35 Sedan]

Originally Posted by rehpotsirhcj

Lamps are overrated. if this goes south you should sell me one.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You got it! Who knows when I'll get to those lamps/lights. They've been on the "nice thing to do" list for years now . One has your name on it.... if/when you need it.

[deuce_roadster]

I think they make great lamps in my shop!

[PeteVS]

Same casting was used from '35 through '48. Should be lots out there.

[19Fordy]

THAT is a heavy lamp. Cool idea. Neat.