'57 T-Bird draining battery

[blucar]

Something in my '57 T-Bird is draining the battery. I have a battery disconnect switch that is attached to the negative battery post and cable. If I forget to turn the switch off, the battery will be deader than dead in the morning.
I have tracked all of the circuits looking for something that is going to ground.. I thought that I found the problem when I found that the alarm appeared to be draining voltage... I checked the alarm to make sure the switch was in the off position, it was, but there was still voltage draw. I disconnected all of the leads to the alarm, there were three.. Still had voltage draw.
Checking the brake light switch revealed a minor voltage draw.. Replaced same with a new switch.
I have checked every accessory, radio, heater, power windows, and power seat for voltage draw.... disconnecting all of the accessories does not eliminate the power draw.
With the negative switch turned on, and all accessories turned off, disconnecting the positive cable will produce a noticeable spark between the cable and the battery post.. Checking the voltage will show a draw of 12.6 volts, which indicates a major drain on the battery.
Reading through my Motors Manual for electrical trouble shooting, I noted that Ford used an internally grounded generator in '57..... Could the generator be going to ground??
The regulator is a brand new unit...
Any ideas as to what is causing the problem....Bill

[Bill Steiner]

I don't remember any thing different about a 57 gen than any other Ford 12 volt gen. Not sure what you mean about internal ground. If the cut out on reg is sticking it will run down batt very fast. That is a simple system on that car, Could be a seat or window relay staying on. I would start with taking all wires off starter relay and ck each one for a draw. Wish I could tell you more. Bill

[paul2748]

Just because the regulator is new doesn't mean that it can't be bad - have it checked out. Same with the generator.

[KULTULZ]

The regulator on an older GEN application is mechanical and adjustable. It (and a diagnostic routine) is described in your Shop Manual.

Disconnect the GEN from the BAT and see if the draw stops.

[PeteVS]

Put a volt meter across your battery disconnect with everything turned off. If you have a draw, it will show as a voltage on your meter. Pull out fuses, one at a time, until the voltage drops to zero. That fuse will point you to where the draw is. Hope this helps.

[LOWRIDER]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

What Pete said is the easiest way to find a system draw. If pulling fuses doesnt isolate the draw, try disconnecting non fused systems (gen, regulator, horn relay etc.) to find it.

[blucar]

Thanks for the trouble shooting tips... I guess I will have to go back through each circuit, disconnecting the power source, then re-attach the power leads one at a time until I find the circuit which is pulling power..
I was checking the electrical system out yesterday and noted a very faint click when I closed the battery grounding (negative) switch. The faint click would indicate that a relay to something is being energized.. Since the power to all of the accessories is controlled by the ignition switch, it would appear that the relay in question has power to it all the time, with the power being controlled on the ground side.
I know that interior lights are generally switched on the ground side of the circuit... It could be that the power window and power seat is wired the same way.. I think I will start with the seat and window circuits..
Thanks again guys.... Bill

[Gerry]

I didn't hear you mention clock. When they get old and batt is weak they do cause a big draw Just saying....

[PeteVS]

Sneaky things that cause current draws are the clock, or a trunk or under hood light that doesn't turn itself off. I don't know about your type of clock, but some that I've seen have a solenoid that will energize for a second or so every now and then to wind the clock for a period of time. If that acts up, it could be a constant draw.

[blucar]

The electric clock in my Bird has not worked for years.. I was going to start with the clock to see if the power has been disconnected...
I know there are no lights in the trunk or engine compartment, The interior courtesy light in the center of the dash goes off and on with the opening/closing of the door...

[Bill Steiner]

I remember back in the 50's some people wired the window relay wrong so the the windows would work with the key off. That would run the batt down. Bill

[blucar]

After many hours of checking the electric circuit's in my '57 Bird I know which circuits the short is not in. Actually the voltage drain is not a short, if it was a short is would cause the wire to over heat, melting the insulation and possibly causing a fire. There is just a constant drain of 12.5 volts.
I found that the clock circuit was still hot in spite of the fact that the clock had not worked in years.... I removed the fuse..
Disconnected the wires, one at a time to the horn relay, voltage regulator, and generator.. No change in the voltage draw.
The info in most auto repair manuals is very vague when it comes to a specific vehicles electrical circuits, so out of desperation I purchased a Ford factory shop repair manual... Ya know the old saying, "don' let the directions on the can out smart you".
Generally speaking I found that the main power feed wire in a T-Bird is a yellow wire.. Many of the circuits are energized via a yellow wire from the ignition switch to fused and/or circuit breakers, and/or relays.
The only circuits I have found in the car that are not controlled by power from the ignition switch is the clock, (eliminate), horns (eliminated) and charging (eliminated).
Since the power to the power windows is controlled via the ignition switch I have concluded that this circuit is not the culprit.
It appears that the power seat is not controlled through the ignition switch. I have identified the power leads to the windows and seat. On the positive post of the starter solenoid.. Now I have to find the circuit breakers for same... Up under the dash, reputedly on the left quarter panel. Then disconnect the power fed to one. If I am lucky the seat will be the first one I find, they are not identified...
The seat works, however, it is very sluggish..
Man I dislike the "term old school"... The electric circuits in modern cars are so well dedicated and identified, electrical problems are few and far between....

[The Master Cylinder]

Bill, sound like you have a good 'plan'. Go through one circuit at a time. I know it's time consuming and frustrating but I'm convinced you will find it. I know, I've been there.

I'm also fighting a wiring gremlin right now, and my '55 Ranchwagon has a new(er) harness (Painless). Headlights are getting power with or without the fuse in place. I found this be accident because the fuse was blown and the lights still worked. Appears that something is back feeding the circuit. The lights all work OK and the switch turns them on and off, but I can pull the fuse and it still works. I have installed a second fuse in the circuit for protection until I find it.

I hate wiring problems, give me something mechanical so I can see the problem, like a piston hanging out the side of the block or something similar...

[SSsssteamer]

Master cylinder....The headlights on most Ford cars is protected by a self re-set circuit breaker. The small fuse on the light switch usually carries the electric supply for the dash lights. When the head lights short out, the circuit breaker will turn them off and as soon as the circuit breaker cools off the lights come back on, only to repeat its cycle.

[Ronnie]

http://www.fordforumsonline.com/foru...tic-drain.html

R