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07-22-2020, 12:44 PM | #1 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Waynesville, NC
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Electrical Issue
I've got a 1929 Tudor, with its 1930 engine with alternator, that's standard in every other way. After driving at least ten minutes and stopping, it will not crank back up. At first, it will fire over once, then nothing else. After three or four of these, it won't fire at all. When I take the distributor off, and wiggle the points, I get plenty of spark out of the coil. After letting it sit around 30 minutes, it fires back up. I thought the original coil might have been the issue, so replaced it with one from Snyder's. That didn't help any..... The new coil feels hot to the touch, but it is summer, in North Carolina. Any ideas?
Thanks |
07-22-2020, 12:52 PM | #2 |
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Location: Largo Florida
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Re: Electrical Issue
Just to see if I understand correctly. The engine will crank, but, the engine will not start.
When it won't start have you immediately checked for spark ? Off hand without any more info, I'm thinking either vapor lock or condenser. |
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07-22-2020, 01:24 PM | #3 |
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Join Date: May 2010
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Re: Electrical Issue
The engine turns over fine with the starter. I get ONE cylinder fire, then nothing else. I Did check for spark quickly after that, and it looks fine then....
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07-23-2020, 05:26 AM | #4 |
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Location: Largo Florida
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Re: Electrical Issue
When the engine is hot and won't start have you tried choking it ? Does the carb throat get wet ?
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07-23-2020, 07:34 AM | #5 |
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Re: Electrical Issue- Hot engine starts and using the choke.
pm sent 20500
Last edited by Benson; 07-26-2020 at 11:20 AM. |
07-23-2020, 07:56 AM | #6 |
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Re: Electrical Issue
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07-23-2020, 09:45 AM | #7 |
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Re: Electrical Issue
Test light function would depend on whether the points are open or closed. Most folks used to carry a spare condenser. Ford put it in one of the hottest places on the engine. Fowled spark plugs can show up if the engine is using some oil or running a bit on the rich side.
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07-23-2020, 09:50 AM | #8 |
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Re: Electrical Issue
If all else fails, replace the rotor. There is a sneaky hi-voltage leak path from the rotor contact to the distributor cam that cannot be seen, and may be erratic with changes in temperature.
I would also suspect the condenser.
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Bob Bidonde |
07-23-2020, 12:01 PM | #9 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Waynesville, NC
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Re: Electrical Issue
I replaced the condenser yesterday, and on my single test so far, that fixed my issue. The carb was getting gas, and I tried different combinations of choke and no-choke. Hopefully the condenser was the issue, but if not I'll run through your various suggestions....
Thanks again! |
07-23-2020, 12:26 PM | #10 |
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Re: Electrical Issue
The best condensers are from A&L.
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07-23-2020, 01:25 PM | #11 |
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Location: Southern California
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Re: Electrical Issue
Small hairline cracks in the upper composite section can also be a possibility. I experienced such a problem years ago. I discovered the problem one day after it was dark when I noticed sparks leaping around the upper section.
Tom Endy |
07-23-2020, 02:54 PM | #12 | |
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Re: Electrical Issue
Quote:
Are you talking about the rotor? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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07-23-2020, 05:03 PM | #13 |
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Re: Electrical Issue
I Think Tom is talking about the composite distributor housing or distributor cap.
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