Original door key

[Al 29Tudor]

Hello,
I removed my door handle today and can read "A-121" on the shaft.
Does that correspond to a tumbler and key? If so does anyone make keys these days?
Thanks for your help.
Al

[Tudortomnz]

You will be able to get a replacement key, but is the cylinder still able to turn in the handle?. Most original handles , the cylinder is well jammed due to the pot metal cylinder swelling over time. I have this problem with my original locking handle & have to put on a repro handle if I need to lock the car up somewhere.

[RonC]

Yes that is the key number

[Al 29Tudor]

Thank you for your replies gentleman.
Tom, I think it must be frozen due to the pot metal issue. I did get a second key with the car but not sure it correct one. But there is no movement at all in the cylinder.
Al

[Aok]

Not sure about modern locksmiths but about 10-15 years back I had a model T remove the door lock and brought it to the local locksmith (guy in a little store) he was able to use the number on the lock and look it up in a book and make me a key.

[Joop]

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A-121 is not a model A key number

Can you post a picture

[DickCrabtree]

The key number for the original lock should be between A1051 through A1299. If the lock cylinder is tight, a new key will not help. I would not recommend using a fish oil based lubricant such as WD40 or Kroil as they may cause the lock to swell even more. Lock Ease is a liquid graphite product that I have found to be a better alternative.

Even though these handles supposedly have a non-removable lock, the locks can still be removed by disassembling the handle. The locks are then fairly easy to re-key. The number you provided will not correspond to code books. Replacement keys are easy to obtain, replacement locks are not so be careful when removing. If you need more help, please call me.

[Al 29Tudor]

Thanks guys.
I'll try to get a picture but numbers very faint.
I removed the retainer, spring and bezel by filing four corners of the shaft.
Shaft color and tumbler still together
Al

[Kevin in NJ]

I did a quick check in the code book I have. The one that translates the number on the lock to the cuts in the key.

This is what I see- I might be wrong.

The 3 digit key numbers start at 201.

It would have to be a 5 digit number to start with 121. So it should be A-121XX where X is a number.

[H. L. Chauvin]

Hi Al,

1. My 1930 Town Sedan keyed door lock would not budge.

2. Rather than force it, I call this knowledgeable gentleman in reply no.7 who had successfully rebuilt my non-functional pop-out switch recently.

3. Please read his last sentence --- even 10 to 20 times if you have to in order to let it sink in.

4. After working closely with knowledgeable professional security hardware consultants & locksmiths for over45 years, here are the facts stated in a humble opinion:

"If Mr. Crabtree can't fix a Model A keyed lock; it cannot be repaired."

5. Forgot to add: He successfully repaired my door lock.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Looks like A1187 to me.

[Al 29Tudor]

Ah yes - the correct number is A1213. With your advice I used the magnifying light and found the "3" on the end of the number.
Besides Lock Ease do you think auto transmission fluid will work?
As usual, good advice from Barner's.
Thank you all
Al

[Joop]

Code to cut a B1 key is 23542

..

[700rpm]

Originally Posted by H. L. Chauvin

Hi Al,

1. My 1930 Town Sedan keyed door lock would not budge.

2. Rather than force it, I call this knowledgeable gentleman in reply no.7 who had successfully rebuilt my non-functional pop-out switch recently.

3. Please read his last sentence --- even 10 to 20 times if you have to in order to let it sink in.

4. After working closely with knowledgeable professional security hardware consultants & locksmiths for over45 years, here are the facts stated in a humble opinion:

"If Mr. Crabtree can't fix a Model A keyed lock; it cannot be repaired."

5. Forgot to add: He successfully repaired my door lock.

Agree. Mr. Crabtree is the best.