new engine using oil

[Mike V. Florida]

Originally Posted by Bill in NJ

Why a black sock ???? Would a green sock work ??

Not with the oil used in the Model A. The carbon in the oil from combustion combines the the carbon used in the dye on the sock allowing better adherence
to the sock and filtering of the carbon allowing cleaner oil to drip back into the engine.

A green sock will just get dirty.

[Mike V. Florida]

Originally Posted by Dino's A

Can someone explain how a new car can have factory filled synthetic and the rings seat in just fine, but when a Model A gets honed it will need dino oil to first seat in???? Crosshatch pattern different maybe? Explain to me why the rings wont ever seat in to a Model A block, but it will to a new cast iron block?

Metallurgy

[Phil Brown]

Originally Posted by Dino's A

Can someone explain how a new car can have factory filled synthetic and the rings seat in just fine, but when a Model A gets honed it will need dino oil to first seat in???? Crosshatch pattern different maybe? Explain to me why the rings wont ever seat in to a Model A block, but it will to a new cast iron block?

Mostly due to the design of the ring pack,nice thin rings for starters

[Mitch//pa]

Originally Posted by Dino's A

Can someone explain how a new car can have factory filled synthetic and the rings seat in just fine, but when a Model A gets honed it will need dino oil to first seat in???? Crosshatch pattern different maybe? Explain to me why the rings wont ever seat in to a Model A block, but it will to a new cast iron block?

I figured this would re- surface. That's why I brought it up in post #15..

[Dino's A]

The only reason is I brought that issue up is because even service techs (and I use that term loosely) contradict themselves with this issue. The tech at the Dodge dealership was telling me that I should of left dino oil in my Challenger for about 5,000 miles so the rings could seat in.

I walked him over to the Dodge Challenger SRT's they had on the lot and told him that these cars come factory filled with synthetic so he better get them over to the service bays immediatley and get all their synthetic oil out. I just smiled at him and said good bye.

The only reason I don't run synthetic oils in my old cars is that I have been told by engine builders is that it could leak out of areas with older style gaskets such as timing covers, oil pans, side covers and the such. I change my oils regularly so I didn't consider doing it.

Maybe that is just another wives tale also.

[Big hammer]

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Originally Posted by Lance Workman

My 1930 roadster deluxe had an rebuilt engine with 19 miles on it when I bought it several months ago. The previous owner knew very little about
the engine work done on the engine because when he bought the car that
owner had just died and his widow was living in a different state. No info
on the engine is now available. I have about 300 miles on the car now.
I changed the oil at about 250 miles. It originally had straight 30 weight
oil in it. I replaced it with Mobil 1 10w40.
Now the car seems to use more oil. After driving about an hour the oil level on the dipstick is about 3/8th of an inch lower than when I started.
The car seems to run fine and there isn't any smoke in the exhaust. I have noticed though that there is always some oil on the side of the engine near the dipstick area of the car when I return from driving it. Originally there were a few oil drips beneath the car under the oil drain bolt but that was taken care off with a oil drain bolt gasket.
Shortly after I purchased the car a Model A owner had came to my place to show me how to start and drive the car. He indicated that the engine was
in extremely good shape and everything was "spot on" reference the timing
and carb adjustment.
The car has only overheated one time and only for a very short time. I pulled over and let it cool down. I changed the oil in it and added some anti freeze 50/50 to it and now it seems to run fine except for the oil usage.
Any ideas why it is using this amount of oil or is this common for the A's.
Thanks
Lance

Overheated once and you changed to synthetic oil. Sounds like you solved your overheating :-) plus one for synthetic oils! Keep your oil level between L&F, the oil usage should stabilize IMHO

[GPierce]

Synthetic oils, according to a Shell Oil engineer I talked to, tend to shrink oil seals slightly. Using Shell synthetic oil in my 1949 airplane, the engine weeped oil everywhere. Going back to pure petroleum base oil I now have a dry engine.