What is the best chassis Black frame paint?

[spdway1]

What is the best chassis Black frame paint? It is for an AA with alot of exposed frame to the eye.
I see Bill Hyrsch and Eastwood offer it.
Thank you

[28ACoupe]

Didn't Ford use plain old black enamel? Not trying to be a pain here, just curious.

[wrndln]

I painted a frame with Eastwood's Ceramic Chassis paint. I would never use it again! The first coat went on OK, but after waiting for about 15 or 20 minutes to spray the second coat, the paint started to setup in the gun and wouldn't spray right. The weather wasn't real hot, so I don't think that was the reason the paint setup so quickly. The pot time was supposed to be 30 to 45 minutes, but it wasn't. Just my experience.
Rusty Nelson

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

This is where the term 'over-restoration' comes in as we try to make it better than it originally did. If you are seeking an original look, then find original photos and look at the finish they had when new. If you are seeking the "best" paint to use, IMO it will be a catalyzed single-stage urethane paint from a well known/respected manufacturer of paint. Manufacturer would be companies such as PPG, DuPont, Sikkens, etc. --and not a company that buys the lower grade paint lines and repackages.

[gwhite]

I'm interested in this too...most off the shelf 'chassis' pants and 99% of the alkyd enamels I've experimented with have a brown or olive 'cast'. My May 1930 chassis has a few places of well-preserved paint (oxidized slightly) and they have more of a grey/slightly blue tint.

I've done some experimenting with asphaltum-based paint and have found that it matches quite well, but has proven difficult to work with - I believe Henry used this type of paint originally.

[leo]

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[FirstA]

I have used Eastwoods products before and had good luck. I had the frame powder coated on my 29 CCPU. Will see in time how it works out. Great so far.

[msmaron]

DP90 first, primer and then centauri black with flattener

[SeaSlugs]

i absolutely love por 15 - 2 coats is best but you cannot scratch it off if you wanted to. gotta prep it right tho: no loose rust (wire wheeled works good) sandblasting is best tho.
this 29 aa frame took roughly 1 quart (about $40) and some cheapo $0.78 wood handle brushes that i just threw away when i was done - you cant clean them nor get it off your skin - wear THICK rubber gloves - the paint goes right thru those blue "doctors" gloves - dont ask how i know that one lol. dont open the can either, use 2 self tapping screws in the lid and use one to pour paint out into a paper bowl (eats foam) and the other as a vent to pur faster then immediately seal up the can with the screws and start painting a little at a time. sets up rather quick but takes 24hrs to fully cure. it kinda self levels so you will not see brush strokes which makes applying it a breeze.

i suppose the only thing about it is it comes out very glossy but dries smooth as glass (granted your metal is smooth) BUT you can paint most paints over it if you rough up the gloss some so por15 it - protect it forever - then paint with desired color. POR15 doesn't like sunlight/uv at all hence a top coat is best but the frame shouldnt see much sunlight.

[Aok]

For a top coat I use Rust-Oleum Professional High Performance Protective Enamel (prime 1st for bare metal) This is a easy to use rattle can product.
Note my car is a driver not a show car

http://www.rustoleum.com/en/product-...e-enamel-spray

[SeaSlugs]

Originally Posted by Aok

For a top coat I use Rust-Oleum Professional High Performance Protective Enamel (prime 1st for bare metal) This is a easy to use rattle can product.
Note my car is a driver not a show car

http://www.rustoleum.com/en/product-...e-enamel-spray

i have used this on modern car rims before and yes properly prepped and primed it sticks and looks good.

[glenn in camino]

I use Rustoleum satin black.

[ford3]

for frames i use the truck and trailer paint sold at most farm stores,its an oil based paint, its about $25 a gallon, slow dry unless you buy the hardner, its tough and resites chipping and is flexable, good for frames ,can get in in gloss or satin, and it flows real good if you want to brush paint the frame

[petew]

Eastwood's original chassis black is great paint. I have sprayed it from a gun and rattle cans too. I have used it in heat , humidity and cold . Takes a while to dry but always ends up looking great. It also can be painted over bare metal.
It has worked well for me for car frames , suspension parts and engine brackets.

[Terry,NJ]

Magnet Paint (Google) "Chassis Saver" Many have said it's like POR , but a little cheaper. It was about $110 a gallon. Magnet Paint is a small manufacturer from Long Island, NY (I think) They've been in business since 1915. They mostly make paint for fleets.
Terry

[Lee Mitch]

Por-15 Chasis Coat Black is great stuff. It will not chip off with rocks and looks authentic IMHO. Brush the primer on and they now have a rattle can for final coat. It is a bit spendy, but it covers real well. The primer should be a little tacky when you spray/brush final coat. Just follow directions.