Fuel Bowl Question

[Eastcoastlaxin]

I have to replace the fuel bowl on my 29; the threads are worn on the inside connection and gas leaks into the cab. With that said, I have a new fuel bowl and I am ready to replace; do I need to use any type of pipe "doping" or "Teflon" on the threads? Question from a brand new 29 owner. Thanks in advance for the help...

[Werner]

Hi,
Teflon tape is good, but better sealants are available for it. It is important that you use a paste that is resistant to gasoline and alcohol. Silicone pastes are unsuitable!

[30 Closed Cab PU]

Never use the white teflon "plumbers" tape for gas/oil. It is not resistant to oil gas. There is a similar version of tape that is yellow and the plastic parts the tape is wound on is yellow, that is oil/gas resistant.

[Jim/GA]

Originally Posted by Eastcoastlaxin

I have to replace the fuel bowl on my 29; the threads are worn on the inside connection and gas leaks into the cab. With that said, I have a new fuel bowl and I am ready to replace; do I need to use any type of pipe "doping" or "Teflon" on the threads? Question from a brand new 29 owner. Thanks in advance for the help...

No! No teflon tape on the fuel system lines!

The fuel line inside the car (from fuel valve to fuel bowl) uses a tapered tubing end that mates up to a tapered fitting on the fuel bowl. Snug it up and it should not leak. The threads only pull the tapered tubing up against the tapered fitting tighter. The threads themselves do not seal, so there is no need for sealant or tape on them.






While you are in there, replace the fuel line also. You can apply a very light coating of a non-hardening sealant, like Permatex #2, to the tapered fitting before attaching the tubing, if you want, as insurance against a weeping fitting. But you really don't need it.

[johnbuckley]

Hi Jim/GA Whilst I agree that theoretically " ...there is no need for sealant or tape ...." . Many fuel unions are not in the best condition any more. I routinely use oil/gas proof PTFE tape on problem areas and find it a very useful adjunct; particluarly if the components are being re-used. As other posts have stated make sure the PTFE tape is the gas proof type.

[Richard Lorenz]

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Hylomar Blue definitely resists gasoline.

[Badpuppy]

Flare fittings seal between the mating flare joints. No sealant should be required, as Jim says. As long as the threads are good and surfaces smooth you should be able to pull in a good seal.

[30 Closed Cab PU]

Originally Posted by Jim/GA

No! No teflon tape on the fuel system lines!

The fuel line inside the car (from fuel valve to fuel bowl) uses a tapered tubing end that mates up to a tapered fitting on the fuel bowl. Snug it up and it should not leak. The threads only pull the tapered tubing up against the tapered fitting tighter. The threads themselves do not seal, so there is no need for sealant or tape on them.






While you are in there, replace the fuel line also. You can apply a very light coating of a non-hardening sealant, like Permatex #2, to the tapered fitting before attaching the tubing, if you want, as insurance against a weeping fitting. But you really don't need it.

Hi Jim,


As long as you are careful and do not get shards of the yellow tape in the gas, what is the objection to the yellow gas resistant tape?



I understand the fix it right the 1st time approach, sometimes a person has reasons to try to make the old stuff work.

[Jim/GA]

Originally Posted by 30 Closed Cab PU

Hi Jim,


As long as you are careful and do not get shards of the yellow tape in the gas, what is the objection to the yellow gas resistant tape?



I understand the fix it right the 1st time approach, sometimes a person has reasons to try to make the old stuff work.

I mostly advise against tape because people use the white teflon tape, and then little bits of it find their way downstream and plug things up, causing bigger problems. Most people don't even know of the existence of the yellow tape.

At least the yellow tape is supposed to not dissolve.

On tapered tubing fittings, a thin coat of a non-hardening sealant on the tapered part will usually cover little imperfections on an old, worn, or damaged part. Tape could also do this. But applying sealant or tape to the threads (where most people put it) is not really putting it where it is needed. It needs to be on the tapered sealing surface.

[30 Closed Cab PU]

Thanks Jim, learned a few bits of info.

[Jim/GA]

Originally Posted by Richard Lorenz

Hylomar Blue definitely resists gasoline.

Yes! I love this stuff! Actually, I prefer the later version, Hylomar AF (Advanced Formula) but I have both. Get it from W.W. Grainger.

I use it on the little plug and gasket under the main jet of the carburetor to stop the fuel from weeping there (drives me crazy). It's also really good on tapered pipe thread fittings.

I use a little bit of the Hylomar AF inside the ends of radiator hoses to help them slide on easier and to stop them from weeping coolant without having to go crazy tight on the hose clamps. And the hoses come off easier in the future without having to cut them off.

[shew01]

Originally Posted by Jim/GA

Yes! I love this stuff! Actually, I prefer the later version, Hylomar AF (Advanced Formula) but I have both. Get it from W.W. Grainger.

I use it on the little plug and gasket under the main jet of the carburetor to stop the fuel from weeping there (drives me crazy). It's also really good on tapered pipe thread fittings.

I use a little bit of the Hylomar AF inside the ends of radiator hoses to help them slide on easier and to stop them from weeping coolant without having to go crazy tight on the hose clamps. And the hoses come off easier in the future without having to cut them off.

I’ve used Hylomar on my radiator hoses too. I agree. It makes disassembly much easier.


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