Water Inlet Questions

[chrs1961815]

So I have several water inlets but the pipe ends are very rough. I assume this is not right and needs to be repaired, so how (heres a picture)? Also, mine have several numbers: one has a stamp of 4, another a 2, and another a 17. I couldn't find any information on the stampings, so does anybody know anything?

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Originally Posted by chrs1961815

So I have several water inlets but the pipe ends are very rough. I assume this is not right and needs to be repaired, so how (heres a picture)? Also, mine have several numbers: one has a stamp of 4, another a 2, and another a 17. I couldn't find any information on the stampings, so does anybody know anything?

Use JB Weld or a Kevlar-stranded body filler to 'bodywork' the rough casting where the hose will have a smooth surface to clamp to. This should do the trick. Try to avoid just using RTV as a way to smooth the surface as it generally leaves a mess when/if the hose is ever removed.

[Joe K]

One might question WHY it must be repaired?

There seems to be enough metal to allow a clamp to reach full compression and seal the hose without collapsing the casting? The corrosion seems to be those portions of the casting BELOW the clamping ridge. (i.e. the hose seal is ABOVE this ridge.)

Also, many complain about TOO MUCH water flow in the circuit - and cut down their water pumps, change pulley ratios, add thermostats or even an orifice to limit flow and prevent blowing water out the radiator overflow tube.

You have a "non-linear" flow opportunity here, that is all. It won't affect your use of the car, adequate cooling, or anything else about the cooling circuit.

Now, if you feel REALLY strongly about it, just go buy a replacement water inlet - which may in fact be made from better cast iron than the original.

This one is aluminum - which will corrode, but "differently" than the original cast iron.

Joe K

[Charlie Stephens]

Put the hose on and you will never know it is there. If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

Charlie Stephens

[Russ/40]

Like Brent said. Blast off all the rust and smear JB Weld as a liner over the entire inside and at the edge.
Use the slow set, not the quick.

[chrs1961815]

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Thanks for the advice, but what about the numbers?

[Tom Wesenberg]

The numbers could be tracking to identify batches or locations of where the part was cast.
I had to smooth the rough parting line on the top outlet once in order to stop the top hose from dripping. Not often that the casting parting line is that rough.

[Steve Plucker]

MOST of the originals that I have seen have a small triangle type tip on the part. Some do not. As Mr. Wesenberg says above, those numbers are casting "batch" numbers.

I believe this part remained the same through-out the years of production.

Pluck

[chrs1961815]

Originally Posted by Russ/40

Like Brent said. Blast off all the rust and smear JB Weld as a liner over the entire inside and at the edge.
Use the slow set, not the quick.

What do you mean by slow set? There are a lot of JB weld products out there and I am assuming I can't use the regular stuff because of the heat (right?).

[Tom Wesenberg]

To me your inlet doesn't look too bad to use. I'd file any sharp edge so it doesn't cut the rubber hose, then use it.


BTW, I like the slow set glues, such as 24 hours before you use the repaired part.
There are also 5 minute epoxy glues, but I consider them a bit weaker.

[Smooth_One]

My inlet pipe looks very similar and I have never given it another thought. I didn’t even file it down so shame on me. Just took some steel wool and polished it a bit and install the hose. Never had a leak problem.