The Ford Barn

norway · 09-08-2013, 01:01 PM

hello. I unscrewed the body from the frame in 2012, and so I put the body on a pallet. one year later i put the body Blocks, shims on the middle and body back on the frame, frame is straight.
but the driver side door is hanging Down, passenger side is fine.
i have body Block rubber in the middle, but front and rear dont has rubber.

I know the door hang down before, but not as much like now.
do you have any idea on how I can get this right?

roof and body wood is bad. so I bought new wood kit to roof and body, from macs.
I post some Pictures.

it was hard to get this wood block inn.

This door hinge looks bent.

and one Picture of the car.
Thanks for all the answers

Russ B · 09-08-2013, 01:58 PM

It looks like an additional shim is needed under Bolt 2 and 3 (A pillar). But first, check A pillar-door gap at bottom of door and ensure door hinge pins are not worn. If gap at front of door is tight at bottom and new hinge pins are not needed, bend the door hinge a bit. My 29 ccpu hinge appears to be bent similar to yours, maybe not as much, but doors fit good.

theHIGHLANDER · 09-09-2013, 08:50 AM

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I went through all of this on my early 31. Keep shimming and look at them as separate entities/parts. Although, if the roof wood is still bad you could be dealing with a cab that's leaning a bit due to no top support. My top wood was all new but the cab would not align. I loosened every fastener on the roof and took a bottle jack and 2X4 from the rear floor to the roof and applied some pressure. Not a lot, but enough to go past the point I felt I needed. Once it was ahead of my perceived 'normal' I tightened all the roof fasteners and let it loose. It went back, and went beyond a good door alignment just as I'd expected, but better than before. Satisfied I was where I wanted to be I shimmed the cab as needed. My doors are as good as can be now.

In a related issue, I'm very frustrated at the rubber/brass gig for the dovetails. The new rubbers are simply too big, the 'box' that carries them is welded to the door vs screwed in from the jamb face, and driving it on the rough county roads actually will break the metal guides in both doors even with the top and bottom rubbers in place. I may end up removing the carriers but unsure how I'll re-weld them in. Hope this info helps.

09-08-2013, 01:01 PM	#1
norway Member Join Date: May 2012 Location: norway Posts: 40	ford 1929 closed cab pickup door alignment, help. hello. I unscrewed the body from the frame in 2012, and so I put the body on a pallet. one year later i put the body Blocks, shims on the middle and body back on the frame, frame is straight. but the driver side door is hanging Down, passenger side is fine. i have body Block rubber in the middle, but front and rear dont has rubber. I know the door hang down before, but not as much like now. do you have any idea on how I can get this right? roof and body wood is bad. so I bought new wood kit to roof and body, from macs. I post some Pictures. it was hard to get this wood block inn. This door hinge looks bent. and one Picture of the car. Thanks for all the answers __________________ i'm stuck in norway

09-08-2013, 01:58 PM	#2
Russ B Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Millbrae, CA Posts: 504	Re: ford 1929 closed cab pickup door alignment, help. It looks like an additional shim is needed under Bolt 2 and 3 (A pillar). But first, check A pillar-door gap at bottom of door and ensure door hinge pins are not worn. If gap at front of door is tight at bottom and new hinge pins are not needed, bend the door hinge a bit. My 29 ccpu hinge appears to be bent similar to yours, maybe not as much, but doors fit good.

09-09-2013, 08:50 AM	#3
theHIGHLANDER Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2010 Posts: 492	Re: ford 1929 closed cab pickup door alignment, help. Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) I went through all of this on my early 31. Keep shimming and look at them as separate entities/parts. Although, if the roof wood is still bad you could be dealing with a cab that's leaning a bit due to no top support. My top wood was all new but the cab would not align. I loosened every fastener on the roof and took a bottle jack and 2X4 from the rear floor to the roof and applied some pressure. Not a lot, but enough to go past the point I felt I needed. Once it was ahead of my perceived 'normal' I tightened all the roof fasteners and let it loose. It went back, and went beyond a good door alignment just as I'd expected, but better than before. Satisfied I was where I wanted to be I shimmed the cab as needed. My doors are as good as can be now. In a related issue, I'm very frustrated at the rubber/brass gig for the dovetails. The new rubbers are simply too big, the 'box' that carries them is welded to the door vs screwed in from the jamb face, and driving it on the rough county roads actually will break the metal guides in both doors even with the top and bottom rubbers in place. I may end up removing the carriers but unsure how I'll re-weld them in. Hope this info helps.