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Old 06-16-2019, 03:24 PM   #1
Terry, NJ
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Default Schwalms

I am probably the only disappointed customer Schwalms ever had! They're good! Mostly, anyway! But not 100%! Here's the story; A few years ago, I took an engine out to Schwalms and it turned out the block was no good, New block, $495! OK. Costly, but you get what you pay for, Right? My flywheel, I had turned down, It just needed balancing, which they did. I had inserts put in the engine plus a lot of valve work. Anyway the engine cost over $5000! It ran great at first! But now with a total time of approximately 1 1/2 hours, it seized up last winter. I was so sick about it that I put the project on hold, It just sits there. Many people told me to call them. I had bought the engine quite a few years ago, although It had been run, I was sure they would say it's out of warranty and they have no responsibility for it. So just to hear their reasoning, I called Schwalms.... No Answer! So I left a message with my phone number, again no response! So I sort of understand, but why did the engine seize in the first place? This isn't my first rodeo, I've replaced engines before and never had anything like this occur. It just seemed to get tighter and tighter until it stopped completely and now it is solidly stuck and can't be budged with a 3/4 drive breaker bar with a three foot pipe. Just my experience with Schwalms!
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Old 06-16-2019, 03:31 PM   #2
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You should have talked to THEM first.
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Old 06-16-2019, 03:36 PM   #3
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http://www.schwalms.com/contact.htm

A satisfied customer is our (their) BEST advertisement. Given your history, they at least owe you a listen. You may end up splitting repair cost with them.

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Old 06-16-2019, 03:55 PM   #4
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Default Re: Schwalms

When you mentioned that it seized during the winter, I thought it was during storage. But as the story continued it appears to have gotten tighter as it was driven and then finally set-up while running it. So, I would call them and have a chat. It wouldn't hurt unless they deny everything.

I've always heard they have a good reputation and have thought about using them.
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Old 06-16-2019, 05:09 PM   #5
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I was told Schwalms passed away a couple of years ago ??
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Old 06-16-2019, 06:35 PM   #6
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I have used Ora and his shop for engine work and brakes on my '29, very professional and have not had a complaint about his workmanship. Try the personal phone call again, I would feel confident in saying a solution could be worked out. IMO/kb
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Old 06-16-2019, 08:10 PM   #7
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Patrick, Keyswitch, and others, It was during storage. The car was in my garage. It was not finished. I had moved the car outsides and back under it's own power once. How ever it was never driven any where else, not even the full length of the driveway. I believe that Ora Landis has been running the business for at least 15 years. This has been a real clout in the ass for me, I can't take a $5G hit and that's what it seems like I'm going to have to. Mean while the car just sits there, unfinished. But I read these paens to Schwalms and how they do so well and I think and he didn't even return my call!
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Old 06-16-2019, 08:49 PM   #8
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Maybe you could send them a letter.
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Old 06-16-2019, 09:31 PM   #9
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Iam sure they will return your call, Ora is very busy with work, He did my engine, no issues.
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Old 06-16-2019, 09:35 PM   #10
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Some answering machines and even answering services don't function as hoped for. I had a concrete pumping service, Builder's Concrete Pumping. We hired an answering service and one day I called our business number just for kicks. "Good Morning, Builders Concrete Plumbing, how may I help you?" That was hardly the greeting I had hoped for and when I got the person to understand we weren't a plumbing service but a concrete pumping service business picked up. So perhaps Schwalms has some glitch. Could be any number of reasons. I check our messages fairly regularly and have been surprised that sometimes one shows up as a new message to me and the person had called a month before. Give Ora another chance to respond, might not be his fault the message never got to his ears. And we are getting older, I have the best of intentions to call sometimes and eventually remember that I haven't. Then I can't recall who I was going to call or even how to find their number.
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Old 06-16-2019, 09:36 PM   #11
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Default Re: Schwalms

I'm they will get back to you. I'm more interested in how it was broken in. You say it was run for about 1.5 hours. I might be wrong but that seems a very short time for the engine to break in. I was told 2-300 miles, I've read of 500 miles as the recommended break in. 1.5 hours seems to be about 75 miles and did I read it right, it sat for a while after the run in?


I'm a little confused on the time line, you had the work done a few years ago?
When did you run it for the 1.5 hours, when you got it or a little each year until this past winter?


When you say seized, what exactly are you experiencing? Can it turn over with the crank? Have you looked into the cylinders to see it you can see anything like light rust due to sitting that would imped the movement of an already tight rebuilt engine?
Did you put any oil in the cylinders and drain all water after you shut it down for "storage"?


Did you email them?
When they moved did the numbers change?
332 Georgetown Road
Strasburg, PA, USA 17579
PHONE: (717) 687-6976
FAX: (717) 687-6977
EMAIL: ora@schwalms.com


Yea, I'm interested is hearing the outcome on this I hope it's a temporary state and you can get it going with little work.
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Old 06-17-2019, 01:11 AM   #12
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Default Re: Schwalms

How many times has the engine been started, and how many minutes was each run time?

In the 70's I locked up two good running used engines because I only ran them for 10 minutes, then shut them down. 6 months later I went to start them and both were locked up tight. Short runs create condensation, and this caused rust and corrosion. Now I won't start any engine unless I know it will run for at leat 30 minutes or more.
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Old 06-17-2019, 07:43 AM   #13
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I think for the cost of the rebuild, and before I would bash them, I would get in my car and drive there and talk to them in person, rather than relying on one errant phone call. Length of time may be a problem, but even though I would expect it to run for more than a couple of hours. When I had my motor rebuilt (not an 'A') the builder would not touch it unless he knew the rest of my car was done so it could be installed right away, and not sit in a corner for who knows how long. He said he had problems in the past doing so that way. Good Luck, Take a day off and drive to beautiful SoLanco and talk to the guys.
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Old 06-17-2019, 07:57 AM   #14
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I'm with Tom W regarding experience with short runs of newly rebuilt, tight engines. My speculation is the problems are all in the cylinders, and maybe removing the pistons and checking out cylinder wall condition, and rings. I doubt you have a boat anchor so don't despair, talk to Schwalms and get their advice. Of course be diplomatic-they may have done nothing wrong but if you are polite (no reason to think you wont be) they will no doubt help out.
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Old 06-17-2019, 07:58 AM   #15
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Default Re: Schwalms

I recall a thread where you tried to free an engine by warming the cylinders with a torch...same engine?
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Old 06-17-2019, 08:07 AM   #16
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Default Re: Schwalms

[B]I transposed 2 of Cindys'[phone numbers, She wuz PISSED!
Bill W./B]
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Old 06-17-2019, 09:10 AM   #17
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Ora is a first class guy. He is very busy and he likes to answer questions through e-mail. So send him an e-mail. Address is on their web site.
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Old 06-17-2019, 10:11 AM   #18
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Well, If it were me, and I lived in Pa. the same State his shop is in, I would have the engine in the back of my truck and would have taken it right back to his shop. Told them the same story as you told here and watched them open it up..If you fooled with it, its over, Maybe ??
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Old 06-17-2019, 10:35 AM   #19
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Railcarmover, Yes it is! I'm so upset about the whole situation I just tried to put it out of my mind, But I can't. Every time I go past it (The Car) and look at it......... I know I have to do something!
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Old 06-17-2019, 10:47 AM   #20
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FM, I did warm the cylinders with a propane torch. Now I'm pretty sure it not the cylinders that are binding. It's in the lower parts I think it's the mains The pan is off but nothing is disassembled. The engine is still in the car! I've thought about doing just that! Putting it in the back of the truck and driving it over there! But I cowardly just turned my attention to my coupes and said and did nothing , now it's starting to really bother me. I'm getting pissed off about it. I want my engine back Goddammit! But I fear the confrontation!
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Old 06-17-2019, 11:02 AM   #21
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Default Re: Schwalms

Quote:
Originally Posted by Terry, NJ View Post
FM, I did warm the cylinders with a propane torch. Now I'm pretty sure it not the cylinders that are binding. It's in the lower parts I think it's the mains The pan is off but nothing is disassembled. The engine is still in the car! I've thought about doing just that! Putting it in the back of the truck and driving it over there! But I cowardly just turned my attention to my coupes and said and did nothing , now it's starting to really bother me. I'm getting pissed off about it. I want my engine back Goddammit! But I fear the confrontation!
Terry
Then why complain here ?? Don`t you think the word will get back to them from some one on F/B and that will just make them get really P/O at you for not getting back to them with all you have said ??..

Last edited by F.M.; 06-17-2019 at 12:37 PM.
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Old 06-17-2019, 11:09 AM   #22
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Exactly!!
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Old 06-17-2019, 11:34 AM   #23
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Default Re: Schwalms

Terry,
Quote from your opening post: "It just seemed to get tighter and tighter until it stopped completely and now it is solidly stuck and can't be budged with a 3/4 drive breaker bar with a three foot pipe."
To clarify, the engine was running over the/some past winter and it seized up as it was running. This is the way I read your description. Based on this understanding I continue:
From your description of how the engine locked up, I would bet the rear main bearing shell had too little oil clearance and it overheated and welded itself to the crank journal.
I would take the engine back to Schwalms and have them increase the clearance a couple tenths at the rear main. They are going to want to observe the condition and learn from the failure.

I only rebuild engines with insert bearings. I have about 180 engines out and running well. I had this "lock-up" happen a couple times about 8 years ago when I switched from Babbitt lined bearing shells to bearing grade aluminum lined shells. Luckily, only one customer (for me, not for him) had this happen while the engine was in his car. He had just made a hard 60 mph run against a strong wind for about 30 miles on the highway with about 320 miles on the engine. The rest of the failures were on my engine test stand while connected to the dyno I use to break the engines in. The aluminum lined inserts needed more clearance than the Babbitt lined. I now provide .002" to .0022" clearance and have not had any issues with seizing or leaks. The bearing insert manufacturer suggested .00175" clearance and when I used this spec, the bearing would occasionally seize when under heavy load. After experiencing the failure, I actually completed a round of tests on a test engine to determine the clearance needed. I actually tried to make it seize under heavy dyno load and was successful several times at .00175" clearance. Methods of measuring clearance may vary from one assembler to another and I believe the way I measure clearance (with plastigage) may not be the same as the supplier of these bearings as I know they use a dial bore gauge. I may have not had .00175" clearance but thought I did. Regardless, I needed to increase the clearance.
Each shop needs to develop and prove their assembly methods. Since your engine was not likely run under load, I can see how it may go undetected by the engine builder. By taking the engine back to them, you are actually helping them improve their product. I would without hesitation, take an engine back like this and want to make the repairs. I would not want it taken apart by the owner as much of the opportunity to learn from the failure would be diminished.

To fine tune the clearance adjustment, I fabricated a fixture to hold the bearing shells in the "crushed" or compressed state and hone the aluminum bearing surface with my Sunnen Precision hone. The stones are a specific compound and grit, purchased after consulting with my Sunnen area rep, to correctly hone the aluminum material.
Over time, I have worked with my crankshaft grinder to provide me the proper diameter main journals (near the small size of the manufacturer's spec.) to eliminate the extra honing process but always have the ability to make a minor adjustment if needed. I posted photos of the fixture, made from two rear main caps, to hold the shells for honing a couple years ago. I'll see if I can find them and either link the post or add the photos again.

In the meantime, the repair of this problem is not an expensive fix for the engine shop. I have been able to remove the welded shells with a brass punch and then carefully remove the built-up/melted on aluminum from the journal with acid. In only two cases did the crankshaft need to be re-ground.

I suggest: Put the pan back on loosely and remove the engine from your car and take it back to Schwalms. Explain exactly how the engine acted as it locked up and suggest to them that it may have been from too little clearance at the rear main. They are good people at that shop. I believe they will treat you right.
Good Day!

Last edited by Dave in MN; 06-19-2019 at 10:30 AM.
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Old 06-17-2019, 12:50 PM   #24
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Then why complain here ?? Don`t you think the word will get back to them from some one on F/B and that will just make them get really P/O at you for not getting back to them with all you have said ??..
I'm with noboD. Double-exactly.

Best thing to do is not post this here, but get back with them directly, face to face is best, and hold your composure and get this solved. You've been fooling with it so I would understand if they didn't want to warranty this engine. Propane torch to the cylinders? Yikes.

I would probably have tried the ATF/Acetone mix first. And, you should have run that engine in better then that to begin with. It is 'hard' on any car to sit around and not be run. Probably the worst thing you can do to an automobile.
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Old 06-17-2019, 01:26 PM   #25
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Been in the warranty business as an equipment mechanic for a long time,your case is a 'policy' question,any warranty expressed or implied has long expired due to the five year time lapse.Policy means that we back our work as a matter of goodwill,and judge a policy cases based on merit...why did you wait 5 years to call? Why did you heat the cylinders and take the pan off? These things limit a policy case coming out in your favor...
Taking a grievance to the open forum does irreparable damage to the vendor.I understand your frustration but this ain't the place to air your issue.
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Old 06-17-2019, 01:38 PM   #26
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Default Re: Schwalms

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave in MN View Post
Terry,
To clarify, the engine was running over the/some past winter and it seized up as it was running. This is the way I read your description. Based on this understanding I continue:
From your description of how the engine locked up, I would bet the rear main bearing shell had too little oil clearance and it overheated and welded itself to the crank journal.
I would take the engine back to Schwalms and have them increase the clearance a couple tenths at the rear main. They are going to want to observe the condition and learn from the failure.

I only rebuild engines with insert bearings. I have about 180 engines out and running well. I had this "lock-up" happen a couple times about 8 years ago when I switched from Babbitt lined bearing shells to bearing grade aluminum lined shells. Luckily, only one customer (not for him but for me) had this happen while the engine was in his car. He had just made a 60 mph run for about 30 miles on the highway with about 320 miles on the engine. The rest of the failures were on my engine test stand while connected to the dyno I use to break the engines in. The aluminum lined inserts needed more clearance than the Babbitt lined. I now provide .002" to .0022" clearance and have not had any issues with seizing or leaks. The bearing insert manufacturer suggested .00175" clearance and when I used this spec, the bearing would occasionally seize when under heavy load. After experiencing the failure, I actually completed a round of tests on a test engine to determine the clearance needed. I actually tried to make it seize under heavy dyno load and was successful several times at .00175" clearance. Methods of measuring clearance may vary from one assembler to another and I believe the way I measure clearance (with plastigage) may not be the same as the supplier of these bearings as I know they use a dial bore gauge. I may have not had .00175" clearance but thought I did. Regardless, I needed to increase the clearance.
Each shop needs to develop and prove their assembly methods. Since your engine was not likely run under load, I can see how it may go undetected by the engine builder. By taking the engine back to them, you are actually helping them improve their product. I would without hesitation, take an engine back like this and want to make the repairs. I would not want it taken apart by the owner as much of the opportunity to learn from the failure would be diminished.

To fine tune the clearance adjustment, I fabricated a fixture to hold the bearing shells in the "crushed" or compressed state and hone the aluminum bearing surface with my Sunnen Precision hone. The stones are a specific compound and grit, purchased after consulting with my Sunnen area rep, to correctly hone the aluminum material.
Over time, I have worked with my crankshaft grinder to provide me the proper diameter main journals to eliminate the extra honing process but always have to ability to make a minor adjustment if needed. I posted photos of the fixture used to hold the shells for honing a couple years ago. I'll see if I can find them and either link the post or add the photos again.

In the meantime, the repair of this problem is not an expensive fix for the engine shop. I have been able to remove the welded shells with a brass punch and then carefully remove the built-up/melted on aluminum from the journal with acid. In only two cases did the crankshaft need to be re-ground.

I suggest: Put the pan back on loosely and remove the engine from your car and take it back to Schwalms. Explain exactly how the engine acted as it locked up and suggest to them that it may have been from too little clearance at the rear main. They are good people at that shop. I believe they will treat you right.
Good Day!
Thanks for posting this Dave, What you are describing is exactly what, and the way it stopped! I'm having a lot of emotional stuff in my mind (And I notice there a full moon, that can complicate things) If it weren't for the $5G I have into it, I'd like to drop it on his doorstep. But cooler heads have to prevail. As far as why bring it up here? I needed to ventilate. I was thinking of all the excuse he would as to why it happened to me, and how it was my fault for something I did or didn't do. and this thing's been out of warranty so long..... Blah, Blah, Blah.You know the same tired old spiel. Plus how everyone regards him as a god, well why didn't God return my call? I only hope this thing turns out with me giving an apology to Ora and the shop. Hell I'd even take him out for a steak dinner! We'll see!
Terry
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Old 06-17-2019, 03:45 PM   #27
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Pan off? Get under the car,take a dead blow or a rubber hammer and knock the big ends of the rods fore and aft..the rod bearings should have a 'click' of side to side play..on the ones you cant hit use a pry bar to check...if all the rods "click" check the crankshaft end play by using the pry bar and prying the crankshaft fore and aft.if the crank doesnt move you have a tight main,check center first then rear......if all the rods click and the crank moves fore and aft,you have a stuck piston,wadded up oil pump or distributor or bad cam gear..but that's rare..
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Old 06-17-2019, 04:05 PM   #28
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I just installed an engine Schwalm’s rebuilt for me - they did a great job and I’m very happy with the way it runs. They were very professional to deal with and always answered by email notes.
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Old 06-17-2019, 04:38 PM   #29
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So after today's rant and pressure relieving, I figured another call was in order. Once again, Ora did not answer, but he did call me right back! Which I was glad for and we had a long chat mostly about the engine. Anyway, I told him what I had done to it and the pan and the head were off and he said bring it back ASAP. So I took some more stuff off the car to facilitate the engine removal which will be as soon as the weather allows. He seemed extraodinarily willing to help me and I tried to reply in kind. I will see what happens. I'm happy for now though
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Old 06-17-2019, 04:58 PM   #30
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I had a Chevy six that did exactly what yours is doing.The owner pulled it out of a 55 Chevy in 1967 and had it rebuilt.He put it back in,ran it around the yard for an hour or so,he said probably 5 minutes at a time.Parked it in the garage while he spent a couple of years in Southeast Asia.When he came home he bought a new Camaro and had lost interest in the 55.I bought it in 1976 and after I got it running it only ran for a few minutes.It slowed down,squeeked,and died.All the top rings had some white powder behind them,and would not compress into the grooves.The other two rings,compression and oil,had what looked like asphalt behind them holding them out.The guy that had built the engine was willing to look at it,just to advise me.He said,clean the corrosion out of the top ring grooves,the tar out of the rest of them,and then show me the pistons.He gave me six new top rings and told me to put it back together.It had not been run enough to melt out the assembly lube and burn off the condensation when first fired up.It had not hurt the walls one iota,because I had not attempted to run it again after it quit.
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Old 06-17-2019, 05:47 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by Terry, NJ View Post
So after today's rant and pressure relieving, I figured another call was in order. Once again, Ora did not answer, but he did call me right back! Which I was glad for and we had a long chat mostly about the engine. Anyway, I told him what I had done to it and the pan and the head were off and he said bring it back ASAP. So I took some more stuff off the car to facilitate the engine removal which will be as soon as the weather allows. He seemed extraodinarily willing to help me and I tried to reply in kind. I will see what happens. I'm happy for now though
Terry
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Old 06-17-2019, 05:58 PM   #32
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i just installed an engine schwalm’s rebuilt for me - they did a great job and i’m very happy with the way it runs. They were very professional to deal with and always answered by email notes.
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Old 06-17-2019, 07:27 PM   #33
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A sound businessman knows integrity is the key to success
Amen!
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Old 06-18-2019, 07:26 AM   #34
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My shop has purchased 6 or 7 engines from Ora over the past years and never a problem. Have a brand new rebuild in my 31 Panel Truck and it runs great.
Give them a chance at least to take or email. He is a good man.
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Old 06-18-2019, 07:45 AM   #35
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My shop has purchased 6 or 7 engines from Ora over the past years and never a problem. Have a brand new rebuild in my 31 Panel Truck and it runs great.
Give them a chance at least to take or email. He is a good man.
Exactly, very true!
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Old 06-18-2019, 07:48 AM   #36
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"The Fireside" is a nice restaurant in Strasburg. Def. get a good steak there!
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Old 06-18-2019, 03:18 PM   #37
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. Plus how everyone regards him as a god, well why didn't God return my call?
Terry
Terry THAT's funny!!

Good to see you're on the road to getting your problem resolved. None of us here would like to take 5G in the shorts

I've heard similar stuff about Rich in Skokie, Ill. that builds insert Model A motors. Most folks praise his work but I know several who had major problems and wouldn't recommend him to anybody.

I guess sometimes it's just a crap shoot. The difference is how the problem gets fixed.

But from reading this, I'll know not to have a motor done and them let it sit and wait for the car to be finished The motor had better be one of the last things to get done.
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Old 06-18-2019, 04:03 PM   #38
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Good Idea Jeff! But let me tell you just how old and slow I'm getting to be! I had it all planned out in my mind how long it would take, Three years , maybe four ! That was about eight years ago. I was moving along pretty good and I kept hitting stopping points on the body , like bending the gutters and shimming the body to get the doors to close. and replacing the glass. Yes, the guys in here have been a big help, but I need someone to show me. Just dumb I guess. I was getting pretty far, the body was done and painted, all new wood. The windshield was done. and fitted Lotsa stuff done and I want it all finished, and I will have it sometime. Do you understand why I abandoned this project? How much frustration can a person take?
Terry
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Old 06-18-2019, 05:37 PM   #39
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Good Idea Jeff! But let me tell you just how old and slow I'm getting to be! I had it all planned out in my mind how long it would take, Three years , maybe four ! That was about eight years ago. I was moving along pretty good and I kept hitting stopping points on the body , like bending the gutters and shimming the body to get the doors to close. and replacing the glass. Yes, the guys in here have been a big help, but I need someone to show me. Just dumb I guess. I was getting pretty far, the body was done and painted, all new wood. The windshield was done. and fitted Lotsa stuff done and I want it all finished, and I will have it sometime. Do you understand why I abandoned this project? How much frustration can a person take?
Terry
Hang in there ! Sounds like you are on the comeback trail and should have the old Henry on the road in a few weeks. Looking forward to a happy conclusion.
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Old 06-18-2019, 09:59 PM   #40
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Terry , it will be alright in the end ,if it is not alright now it is not the end .!!!! a quote from a movie the Grand Budapest Hotel ,VERY INSPIRING
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Old 06-18-2019, 10:37 PM   #41
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For more pictures of the car from when I dragged it home, go to my profile, and open the album "My A" And that's not all!
Terry
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Old 06-27-2019, 11:42 PM   #42
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Today I yanked the engine! Today should'na happened! Almost everything went wrong! I had a hard time with the engine! It didn't want to come out The input shaft didn't want to leave the fly wheel! It fought me all the way! I finally convinced it that I was going to win this match and it surrendered. More hard times getting it into the van. I really could have used a pickup today. Again, shear bulldog determination won out and we were on our way to Schwalms. Traffic was bad! All the white knuckle people were out. That lengthened the misery! Also my left front brakes began the make the ugliest noises. Finally got there and Ora had left a short while before so Jeff helped me out. Very nice guy! Then it was back to rt 30 and we found a NAPA store and I purchased a new set of front brake pads and proceeded to change the noisy one. I didn't have all the proper tools with me so I had to improvise a little so the job took longer. But the guys in the NAPA store were very nice to us .My wife and I were soon on our way. The slowpokes had retired early and we were able to make some time. Rough day!
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Old 06-28-2019, 08:12 AM   #43
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Sounds like a 6 pack of beer day
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Old 06-28-2019, 08:49 AM   #44
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Terry, take heart that you're not the only one that this scenario has happened to, there's probably lots of us out there.
In my case it was the car I did up for my wife, spent over 3 years doing it, being a uni-body I had to strip it completely so I could put it on a rotisserie to replace most of the floor pan. After it was all back together took it for a test drive and discovered that the transmission (manual) needed rebuilt. Back to the shop to pull the engine and transmission, then another few months sourcing parts before getting it back on the road.

Overcome, adapt and carry on.
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Old 06-28-2019, 10:52 AM   #45
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Today I yanked the engine! Today should'na happened! Almost everything went wrong! I had a hard time with the engine! It didn't want to come out The input shaft didn't want to leave the fly wheel! It fought me all the way! I finally convinced it that I was going to win this match and it surrendered.
Terry
WELL,..after ALL the drama,...THAT could be your problem! The input shaft
loading the rear main, overheating it and and sticking the crank..
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Old 06-28-2019, 11:21 AM   #46
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WELL,..after ALL the drama,...THAT could be your problem! The input shaft
loading the rear main, overheating it and and sticking the crank..
That is the reason for me at least, to always pull the crash box with the engine.. "INSPECTION"

Last edited by F.M.; 06-28-2019 at 01:29 PM.
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Old 07-13-2019, 06:05 AM   #47
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Any news from Ora yet?
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Old 07-13-2019, 09:16 AM   #48
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Terry, take heart that you're not the only one that this scenario has happened to, there's probably lots of us out there.
In my case it was the car I did up for my wife, spent over 3 years doing it, being a uni-body I had to strip it completely so I could put it on a rotisserie to replace most of the floor pan. After it was all back together took it for a test drive and discovered that the transmission (manual) needed rebuilt. Back to the shop to pull the engine and transmission, then another few months sourcing parts before getting it back on the road.

Overcome, adapt and carry on.
I have done this correctly more than a few times. The last (does this qualify as a "senior" moment?) Whole front of the car supported by the engine pull rig hanging in the air.

ARG - &8%$/#@! WHY WON'T THIS DERN THING COME OUT!

A break, a beer (ice tea for me) and a thought - "Um - I bet..."

I forgot to remove the wish-bone retainer and release it from the front axle.

It helps following written instructions - sometimes.

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Old 07-13-2019, 09:48 AM   #49
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gotta ask..did it turn over easy after you pulled it out?
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Old 07-13-2019, 09:33 PM   #50
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It helps following written instructions - sometimes.

Joe K

WHAT, read instructions? We will take away your man card.
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Old 07-14-2019, 07:21 AM   #51
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You guys! I'm still chuckling! An update! The engine is still out in Strasberg (Schwalms) I called Ora a couple of times and missed him, he called back and missed me! This week I'm sure we will make contact. No, It didn't turn over after i pulled it out! Would've been nice if it did though. I will keep you all up to date as it unfolds.
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Old 07-14-2019, 10:39 AM   #52
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If you don't do your own mechanical work on an engine then you are sort of at the mercy of those that do. Engines don't like to set too long without being bedded in. Once they have been run down the road for a few hundred miles or so, they can take a lot more storage time but still need to be run up every month or so just to keep oil splashed around in there. We all learned by trial and error for the most part so don't feel too bad about what happened. It shouldn't take another 5000 bucks to fix it. It may be corroded cylinders or it may have a crank bearing problem. If it's a cylinder problem then it may still be correcible by honing. If not then it will cost you a bore job with pistons. It can also be stuck valves but it needs to be torn back down to find the problem.

I've been guilty of storing engines too long as well but I take the plugs out and squirt oil in there now and then with a few rotations of the crank to keep things loosened up.

If Schwalm's is a decent outfit, they will at least try to get you fixed up with the least amount of expense than those that had no skin in that game. You may have to pay some for any mistake that would be attributable to the way it was stored but if it turns out that a bearing had too little clearance then they should lick that calf over and do you right. Don't wait too long or you will be stuck having it done by someone else.
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Old 08-24-2019, 03:14 AM   #53
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and so what ever happened Terry?


cant believe this thread ended wo an answer??????????????????
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Old 08-24-2019, 05:16 AM   #54
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and so what ever happened Terry?


cant believe this thread ended wo an answer??????????????????
following this thread and would like to hear outcome . it's a learning experience .
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Old 09-04-2019, 09:32 AM   #55
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????????????


was it that embarrassing?


maybe make up a tall fib so we can feel satisfied.............
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