Mounting ‘Tubman’ condenser on dome distributor

[34 fordor owner]

Hello everyone, just bought a condenser from Mr.Tubman and I was wondering if anyone has some tips on mounting the condenser on this type of distributor and mainly ones with the coils used on 34s the compact circle coils.

[Phil Gillespie]

Normally can mount with a clamp which fits around the condenser and will have a hole at the lug section which will secure on one of the coil securing screws
The can be picked up from any hardware store as long as you get one the correct diameter to pull up and secure condenser.
Phil NZ

[tubman]

I Think that actually mounting the unit is not the problem, but making the electrical connections is. I have tried to help this kid (he is 16), but my knowledge of the pre-war distributors is not what it should be, as I am an "8BA guy". I think several on here have done this and should be able to help. I had gotten pictures of several installations, but those pictures are on my computer back in Minnesota, and I am in Florida for the winter. The "integral" condensers on these units is what complicates matters.

[Crankster]

Florida for the winter, eh? I'd no idea those capacitors were so lucrative. /s

[Lawson Cox]

I have a couple of the original style condensers for the helmet distributor. It is a semi circular deal with the condenser mounted in the center of the "circle." It (they) mount on the distributor mounting screws. I would post a picture but that is above my pay grade.

[V8COOPMAN]

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Originally Posted by Crankster

Florida for the winter, eh? I'd no idea those capacitors were so lucrative. /s

Ha ....Tub flits-around the planet as he pleases, as any self-made, robustly-affluent & retired entrepreneur might. His making available of the beautiful capacitors he supplies is out of his love of the hobby, and in support of those in need of some of the finer details in this hobby. I've heard that he loses a small fortune on every capacitor that he lovingly ships! DD

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by Lawson Cox

I have a couple of the original style condensers for the helmet distributor. It is a semi circular deal with the condenser mounted in the center of the "circle." I would post a picture but that is above my pay grade.

Lawson .....IF I knew what I was doing, you could e-mail those pictures to me and I could post 'em for ya. My e-mail BELOW! DD


[email protected]

.

[KiWinUS]

Originally Posted by Lawson Cox

I have a couple of the original style condensers for the helmet distributor. It is a semi circular deal with the condenser mounted in the center of the "circle." It (they) mount on the distributor mounting screws. I would post a picture but that is above my pay grade.

Lawson I believe what you are describing is a radio suppressor for a helmet. The condenser fits in the hole on helmet coil

[corvette8n]

Here’s a picture of how I mounted mine. I later ran a new set of wires soldered to the connectors.

[34 fordor owner]

Here is the coil that I am working with. Because of the older style the fan is above the distributor and most everything else is cramped. A real pain to work with but that’s besides the point.

[Lawrie]

I’m away from home at the moment ,but, I mounted mine on a little lug I made ,it’s mounted on the top timing cover 5/16 bolt, and, in the coil where the old condenser screw was, I put a longer screw from the inside where the old condenser was and a lock nut on the out side,then slip the new condenser wire onto it then another nut,I use this method for all the condensers on my 33 &34,it makes it easy to change on the roadside if needed
When I’m back home next week I can post a pick if needed
Lawrie

[koates]

The original 1934 Ford condenser fits inside the bakelite tunnel on the back of the coil (its part of the coil) and the threaded brass terminal on the condenser has a little screw that threads into this terminal from the outside of the coil. You have to get a longer screw to go through the tunnel so that a nut can be fitted on the outside of that screw and then this becomes your new connection for your condenser wire. A second nut is required to hold the condenser wire on the terminal screw. Might be easier to fit an allan head screw in the tunnel so that the alan key can easier locate the screw through the hole and hold it while you screw the first nut on the outside. Good idea to use shakeproof washers under terminal nuts to stop them coming loose. If you find this all to difficult then you could buy the correct 34 V8 condenser from Michael at Third Generation Auto in TN. Just another check make sure the terminal nuts on the back of the ignition switch and on each end of the resistor are all tight. Regards, Kevin.

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by Lawson Cox

I have a couple of the original style condensers for the helmet distributor. It is a semi circular deal with the condenser mounted in the center of the "circle." It (they) mount on the distributor mounting screws. I would post a picture but that is above my pay grade.

Like this, Lawson?

This is for a 1937 to '41 distributor....Won't work on a '34 application

[koates]

Lawson, the above condenser is not for a 1934 Ford its later like 37 or so and the above post is only confusing the issue. Lets stick with ORIGINAL 1934 Ford parts please. Regards, Kevin

[Lawrie]

Kevin, also on the circuit breaker under the dash,mine had a loose connection there,it took a few years to sort out ,and 5 mins to fix.
I use a metric set screw about 30 mm long and one nut and spring washer,then the wire terminal,and another spring washer and nut,
All going ok up here,nice lot of rain that’s needed.
Lawrie

[Tim Ayers]

Originally Posted by KiWinUS

Lawson I believe what you are describing is a radio suppressor for a helmet. The condenser fits in the hole on helmet coil

I believe so too.

[34 fordor owner]

Thank you everyone for the suggestions and help, what I am having a problem with right now is how cramped the distributor area is. Below is a picture showing a ‘Tubman’ condenser and how it does not fit in the cramped area. If anyone knows a good way to mount the condenser or where to allow for good room it would be a good help.

[rich b]

Would it be possible to make a tab off this bolt and mount the condenser crosswise horizontally?

[34 fordor owner]

Originally Posted by Lawrie

I’m away from home at the moment ,but, I mounted mine on a little lug I made ,it’s mounted on the top timing cover 5/16 bolt, and, in the coil where the old condenser screw was, I put a longer screw from the inside where the old condenser was and a lock nut on the out side,then slip the new condenser wire onto it then another nut,I use this method for all the condensers on my 33 &34,it makes it easy to change on the roadside if needed
When I’m back home next week I can post a pick if needed
Lawrie

From the picture I posted above did you mean mounting the “p clamp” on the bolt directly above the coil? Then running the lead wire down to the original condenser holder? If you wanted use my picture to better explain so I can grasp better.

[34 fordor owner]

Originally Posted by rich b

Would it be possible to make a tab off this bolt and mount the condenser crosswise horizontally?

Just thought about this and asked above. I believe that is what he was talking about. I would have to get a bigger clamp that fits a 5/16 bolt.

[Tim Ayers]

Originally Posted by rich b

Would it be possible to make a tab off this bolt and mount the condenser crosswise horizontally?

Thinking the same.

[34 fordor owner]

Would this be okay to mount directly under the bolt? Or would I have to make a “lug” such as ‘Lawrie’ stated above. Also would anyone know where to get a large p clamp to fit a 5/16s as well as it being bare metal I seem to can only find insulted clamps.

[Will D]

Originally Posted by 34 fordor owner

Would this be okay to mount directly under the bolt? Or would I have to make a “lug” such as ‘Lawrie’ stated above. Also would anyone know where to get a large p clamp to fit a 5/16s as well as it being bare metal I seem to can only find insulted clamps.

If it was me, I'd just find or buy a piece of flat stock. Drill a hole, bend to shape or vise versa and your good to go. Either that or get one with the insulation and remove the insulation.

[rich b]

Originally Posted by 34 fordor owner

Just thought about this and asked above. I believe that is what he was talking about. I would have to get a bigger clamp that fits a 5/16 bolt.

If you made a tab, either straight or bent, with a 5/16" hole and a smaller hole for the clamp; it would give you more leeway in getting the condenser in a "happy" location.

oops; slow to respond.

[34 fordor owner]

Originally Posted by rich b

If you made a tab, either straight or bent, with a 5/16" hole and a smaller hole for the clamp; it would give you more leeway in getting the condenser in a "happy" location.

oops; slow to respond.

Could you give me an example of a ‘tab’ I understand what you mean but I’m struggling on the tab part.

[rich b]

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Originally Posted by 34 fordor owner

Could you give me an example of a ‘tab’ I understand what you mean but I’m struggling on the tab part.

What I would call a "tab" in this case: piece of 5/8" to 3/4" wide material with a 5/16" hole to fit the bolt and a smaller hole to match your P clamp.

A flat piece could be attached with the smaller hole to the left or right of the 5/16" bolt; the length could be varied to suit the desired location of the condenser.

If you wanted to attach the P clamp directly above or below the 5/16" bolt a Z bend could be made so the P clamp and condenser clears the 5/16" bolt.

You also put a 90 degree bend in it with the 3/16" hole extending straight forward from engine.

The flat bar material could be anything that would support the weight along with taking into consideration that it is mounted directly to and subjected to the vibrations of the engine.

I usually saw a hunk off a piece of 12 ga plate; but also use the 1/8" flat bars from the metal piece displays at the hardware store.

[34 fordor owner]

Originally Posted by rich b

What I would call a "tab" in this case: piece of 5/8" to 3/4" wide material with a 5/16" hole to fit the bolt and a smaller hole to match your P clamp.

A flat piece could be attached with the smaller hole to the left or right of the 5/16" bolt; the length could be varied to suit the desired location of the condenser.

If you wanted to attach the P clamp directly above or below the 5/16" bolt a Z bend could be made so the P clamp and condenser clears the 5/16" bolt.

You also put a 90 degree bend in it with the 3/16" hole extending straight forward from engine.

The flat bar material could be anything that would support the weight along with taking into consideration that it is mounted directly to and subjected to the vibrations of the engine.

I usually saw a hunk off a piece of 12 ga plate; but also use the 1/8" flat bars from the metal piece displays at the hardware store.

I don’t have the equipment to do this, so I plan to mount directly under the bolt that is there. I believe that will be sufficient right?

[corvette8n]

Here is how I mounted mine before I went back to the original type coil, it’s just mounted to an angle bracket from Home Depot or your local hardware store.

[tubman]

That's really a good idea. I got an email from Chris (the O/P) saying he was going to go to Lowe's to try to find a 5/16" "P-clamp. I think he may be better served looking at the miscellaneous brackets (such as the one you used) in the hardware section.

[34 fordor owner]

Originally Posted by corvette8n

Here is how I mounted mine before I went back to the original type coil, it’s just mounted to an angle bracket from Home Depot or your local hardware store.

Wow! Y’all on here are smart! That’s a good idea, I will just have to make sure I can clear the side of the coil so the holes will line up. I had to do some minor adjustments to other clamp to try and get it to fit.

[mhaim]

Did this on my car

[Mart]

You might be able to file the hole in the clamp out to 5/16". The condenser does not have to be mounted directly at the distributor, so on that bolt might be an alternative.

Edit: replied before seeing the replies on page 2.

[34 fordor owner]

Originally Posted by mhaim

Did this on my car

That looks good! How did you do this?

I took the idea from above and got a angled bracket. I had to cut the sides to get it to fit in the beside of the coil. Now I have to get another screw to mount the condenser because I forgot it at lowes today. Not the purtiest but if it gets her running I’m more than happy.

What do y’all think? Yes or no?

[34 fordor owner]

Well y’all, here it is. Got a Allen screw through the cavity locked in with a nut and the lead to the screw locked in by another nut. Hopefully this makes a good enough connection with the lead. Plan to try and start her tomorrow as I have left my battery in my moms car.

[Will D]

Well there ya be, Good Job! That'll work just fine.

[Lanny]

Originally Posted by 34 fordor owner

Well y’all, here it is. Got a Allen screw through the cavity locked in with a nut and the lead to the screw locked in by another nut. Hopefully this makes a good enough connection with the lead. Plan to try and start her tomorrow as I have left my battery in my moms car.

Well Chris, you have been getting a lot of good suggestions and help from
the great members here on the Fordbarn.
We are all pulling for you and hoping you get your engine running so you
can go have a nice drive in your '34... good luck




.

[34 fordor owner]

Well everyone, tried to start it today and I didn’t get a start or even a stutter. If anyone would like to see a video of me trying to start it and maybe listen for something I don’t hear please let me know and I will get your email and send it over.

[38 coupe]

First step, make sure you are getting power to the coil when the ignition switch is turned on, if not troubleshoot and fix. Second step is to check if there is any spark when cranking the engine over; test by pulling a wire off a spark plug and holding (with something insulated like rubber grip pliers or wooden clothes pin) the end about 1/16 from the spark plug. If you get spark, that's not your problem. If no spark report back and we can help figure out why.

[34 fordor owner]

Originally Posted by 38 coupe

First step, make sure you are getting power to the coil when the ignition switch is turned on, if not troubleshoot and fix. Second step is to check if there is any spark when cranking the engine over; test by pulling a wire off a spark plug and holding (with something insulated like rubber grip pliers or wooden clothes pin) the end about 1/16 from the spark plug. If you get spark, that's not your problem. If no spark report back and we can help figure out why.

When I checked before trying to start I had about 4.5-5 volts at coil with switch on. The way I checked spark was by pulling the whole plug out and grounding on a head bolt. I got no spark from here but I could have possibly not had it grounded good. Something else I was thinking about is I might not have a good connection on the coil from the lead of the condenser. It’s hard to tighten the nut but I thought I had it tight enough with two nuts.

[tubman]

Chris,

I have just finished going through all of your posts, and have come up with a couple of concerns. In your first post, it says that "In preparation for starting it, we have had the distributor rebuilt with a new condenser, we have had new Auto-lite 386 spark plugs put in as well as spark plug wires, cleaned the gas tank, fuel lines, and original fuel sender, and finally installed a new fuel pump". I see later that you got a new coil from Skip. One question that was never answered is "Who rebuilt the distributor?". If it was done by someone unknown at some undetermined time in the past, I would suspect it and I am afraid your only choice is to send it out to someone reputable and have it done again. Also, I see that the tank, fuel lines, fuel pump, and carburetor have all been replaced, but in some of your later posts, it seems that you are back to hand feeding fuel down the carb throat. I think it would be a very good idea to see what is wrong with the fuel system and correct it. Dumping fuel down the carb may work for some, but if you have any other problems, it may be enough to keep the engine from starting.

Stick with it; we'll get it going. When you get a chance, email me the video.

[34 fordor owner]

Originally Posted by tubman

Chris,

I have just finished going through all of your posts, and have come up with a couple of concerns. In your first post, it says that "In preparation for starting it, we have had the distributor rebuilt with a new condenser, we have had new Auto-lite 386 spark plugs put in as well as spark plug wires, cleaned the gas tank, fuel lines, and original fuel sender, and finally installed a new fuel pump". I see later that you got a new coil from Skip. One question that was never answered is "Who rebuilt the distributor?". If it was done by someone unknown at some undetermined time in the past, I would suspect it and I am afraid your only choice is to send it out to someone reputable and have it done again. Also, I see that the tank, fuel lines, fuel pump, and carburetor have all been replaced, but in some of your later posts, it seems that you are back to hand feeding fuel down the carb throat. I think it would be a very good idea to see what is wrong with the fuel system and correct it. Dumping fuel down the carb may work for some, but if you have any other problems, it may be enough to keep the engine from starting.

Stick with it; we'll get it going. When you get a chance, email me the video.

Good morning,

The distributor was sent off to C&G Ford Parts and was rebuilt by them. The fuel system is working good now. I was hand feeding it and using the carb at first just so I would know it was getting the fuel it needed. I plan to sand down the bracket and where the condenser is grounded to see if this is an issue.

I will send the video shortly!

[tubman]

No spark now? There must be something else going on. Now that the condenser is mounted and in the circuit, I feel that any further assistance I could give would be next to useless, as I have not had a car with a front-mounted distributor since 1962. I guess it's up to the rest of you guys to figure this out.

I will say that, although my condensers have been reliable and I have had no failures in over 300 units sold, I suspect that the condenser installation may be the problem because of it's non-standard nature.

[34 fordor owner]

Originally Posted by tubman

No spark now? There must be something else going on. Now that the condenser is mounted and in the circuit, I feel that any further assistance I could give would be next to useless, as I have not had a car with a front-mounted distributor since 1962. I guess it's up to the rest of you guys to figure this out.

I will say that, although my condensers have been reliable and I have had no failures in over 300 units sold, I suspect that the condenser installation may be the problem because of it's non-standard nature.

I completely agree I am going to back this afternoon and make sure everything is grounded good and connected correctly. If it still doesn’t work after this I will begin looking at other options.

Also here is a link to my video if anyone would like to see it. https://youtu.be/TUwOqdNAAmg

[35fordtn]

Use a ohm meter and insure the points are operating as they should. While you have your meter out check the primary and seconday resistance of your coil.
If using the flat coil adapter plate, ensure the hard wound cone shaped spring is not grounding to the housing (common issues causing no spark)
If you want a quick check to see if it's a condenser go to autozone and buy a FD72 condenser. They work perfect but they lack the sex appeal of Tubman's

[tubman]

After watching your video, I saw that it spins over quite rapidly. If you are using a 6 volt battery, it is rapid enough to make me wonder about the compression. To check a "Skip's Coil" you will have to remove it to access the high tension lead. If you don't have an "ohm meter" (multi-meter), you should really have one and they are available for as low as $10.

[34 fordor owner]

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Originally Posted by tubman

After watching your video, I saw that it spins over quite rapidly. If you are using a 6 volt battery, it is rapid enough to make me wonder about the compression. To check a "Skip's Coil" you will have to remove it to access the high tension lead. If you don't have an "ohm meter" (multi-meter), you should really have one and they are available for as low as $10.

Do you mean this as in not enough compression? Also I do have a multimeter, so would I be testing the coil by using the high tension lead? Also testing the points how would I do this with a multimeter?

[tubman]

Yes, it sounds to me that you either have low compression or the world's best battery/starter combination. You want to check the resistance of both of the primary and secondary circuits in the coil. Between the two primary terminals you should get an ohms reading in the single digits, while between the high tension lead and on of the primary terminal the ohms reading should be in the 4 or 5 digit range.

[Mart]

Even with a rebuilt distributor, I would check to see if the points have "furred up" while standing. How long ago was it done?
You need to see if you have a spark.
Take one lead off and fit it to a spare plug with the plug resting on the head. It doesn't need a great ground to the head. A good spark will jump the gap.
When you turn the ignition on, does the ammeter jump towards the discharge side?
Take the coil off the distributor.
Put your multimeter on the contact inside the distributor where the metal prong of the coil low tension side fits into and set to measure continuity.
As the crank turns two revs (by hand ideally) you should get eight ground/no ground cycles at the connection. The ground part of the cycle should be over three times as long as the non ground part of the cycle.
What I am trying to establish is are the points working.

If the points are working, and the coil is good, and the condenser is connected correctly there is no reason why you should not have a spark.

An off the wall thought.. Are you sure the distributor is turning? A remote possibility is that you have a short cam and the adaptor button is missing. Did you feel the distributor fall into place with a solid engagement into the slot? Can you see it turning if you tak the coil or a side plate off?

Have you checked and double checked you have all the plug leads in the correct locations?

Lots of questions. I wish I was close enough to look over your shoulder and help directly.

Does anyone live nearby that could drop by and help??

Mart.

[34 fordor owner]

Originally Posted by Mart

Even with a rebuilt distributor, I would check to see if the points have "furred up" while standing. How long ago was it done?
You need to see if you have a spark.
Take one lead off and fit it to a spare plug with the plug resting on the head. It doesn't need a great ground to the head. A good spark will jump the gap.
When you turn the ignition on, does the ammeter jump towards the discharge side?
Take the coil off the distributor.
Put your multimeter on the contact inside the distributor where the metal prong of the coil low tension side fits into and set to measure continuity.
As the crank turns two revs (by hand ideally) you should get eight ground/no ground cycles at the connection. The ground part of the cycle should be over three times as long as the non ground part of the cycle.
What I am trying to establish is are the points working.

If the points are working, and the coil is good, and the condenser is connected correctly there is no reason why you should not have a spark.

An off the wall thought.. Are you sure the distributor is turning? A remote possibility is that you have a short cam and the adaptor button is missing. Did you feel the distributor fall into place with a solid engagement into the slot? Can you see it turning if you tak the coil or a side plate off?

Have you checked and double checked you have all the plug leads in the correct locations?

Lots of questions. I wish I was close enough to look over your shoulder and help directly.

Does anyone live nearby that could drop by and help??

Mart.

Okay I have the coil off and I am able to see that the distributor is spinning correctly. I have also cleaned the ground for the condenser it was caked it lots of paint. Now as you described checking the points I am figuring I need to have the coil back on to test this right?

[34 fordor owner]

Originally Posted by 34 fordor owner

Okay I have the coil off and I am able to see that the distributor is spinning correctly. I have also cleaned the ground for the condenser it was caked it lots of paint. Now as you described checking the points I am figuring I need to have the coil back on to test this right?

Also not quite positive on where I am supposed to be using the ohm meter in the coil everywhere I check it’s giving me 0. Here is a picture of my coil so you can tell me where to check.

[Mart]

Ignore the coil for now. lets see if the points are working.
The springy thing on the coil connects into a conical location on the points plate. With the coil off, put your meter on that connection on the points plate and check for a circuit to ground or not to ground. It should switch back and forth between grounded and not grounded eight times for 2 rotations of the crank. This would indicate that the points are working.
Mart.

[Will D]

How's it going? Making any headway?

[34 fordor owner]

Originally Posted by Will D

How's it going? Making any headway?

I have been super busy since Friday and haven’t gotten a chance to get out to work on it any. Hopefully I will be able Monday sometime!

[34 fordor owner]

Originally Posted by Mart

Ignore the coil for now. lets see if the points are working.
The springy thing on the coil connects into a conical location on the points plate. With the coil off, put your meter on that connection on the points plate and check for a circuit to ground or not to ground. It should switch back and forth between grounded and not grounded eight times for 2 rotations of the crank. This would indicate that the points are working.
Mart.

Hey everyone, finally got some time to work on the car after a super busy week. I checked for the ground no ground cycles. I did this using the ohm part of the meter and it stayed on 0.00. Did I do this right?

[Mart]

If you had the engine turning and you measured zero ohms that means the points are not making contact when they are closed.

Here's my advice:

Carefully remove the distributor.

Remove the side caps.

Without undoing any screws try and get some wet and dry paper into the points terminals. Clean them and use your ohm meter to check for continuity. As you turn the distributor you should get eight cycles of zero ohms/lots of ohms.

Actually as I am writing this I am not sure what zero ohms means. Do you mean zero ohms as in a perfect contact or overload and in no contact.

Basically though, you need to make sure the points make contact (to ground) when they are closed and are completely open with no contact to ground when they are open.
Have a play with it and see whet you find.

You are going to be on a steep learning curve.

Hey, you're a kid. Are you tech savvy? Can you make videos on your phone and post them unlisted on youtube?
If you then post a link we can see what is going on we will be able to say that's ok or offer better guidance with less guessing.
Mart.

[Lawrie]

Pics of the tubman condenser on our 33.

[34 fordor owner]

Originally Posted by Mart

If you had the engine turning and you measured zero ohms that means the points are not making contact when they are closed.

Here's my advice:

Carefully remove the distributor.

Remove the side caps.

Without undoing any screws try and get some wet and dry paper into the points terminals. Clean them and use your ohm meter to check for continuity. As you turn the distributor you should get eight cycles of zero ohms/lots of ohms.

Actually as I am writing this I am not sure what zero ohms means. Do you mean zero ohms as in a perfect contact or overload and in no contact.

Basically though, you need to make sure the points make contact (to ground) when they are closed and are completely open with no contact to ground when they are open.
Have a play with it and see whet you find.

You are going to be on a steep learning curve.

Hey, you're a kid. Are you tech savvy? Can you make videos on your phone and post them unlisted on youtube?
If you then post a link we can see what is going on we will be able to say that's ok or offer better guidance with less guessing.
Mart.

I went back again today to look at this better and I am getting the ground/no ground cycles. So with this I through the coil back on and for some reason I’m only getting 2.3 volts back at the coil when I was getting 4.2 two weeks ago. Not sure why this would be. Plan to work on it some more tomorrow.

[40cpe]

Voltage at the coil decreases when the points are closed. Bump the engine over and you should be able to tell when the points are open and closed by the volt meter. 2.3 V isn't enough to start the engine. The starter will decrease it even more. Have you tried a jumper from the battery to the coil?

[34 fordor owner]

Originally Posted by 40cpe

Voltage at the coil decreases when the points are closed. Bump the engine over and you should be able to tell when the points are open and closed by the volt meter. 2.3 V isn't enough to start the engine. The starter will decrease it even more. Have you tried a jumper from the battery to the coil?

I have tried this but that was before I had the coil rebuilt I might have to try it now that it is rebuilt.

[Lanny]

If you get it to start with the 6 volt hot wire, don't run it very
long, maybe a minuet or so is about all.





.

[34 fordor owner]

Originally Posted by Lanny

If you get it to start with the 6 volt hot wire, don't run it very
long, maybe a minuet or so is about all.





.

I took the coil wire off and itself alone is getting 6.2 volts which is good. When I put it back on the coil it has 2.3 like yesterday. I was thinking could this be caused by the ‘springy part’ of the coil grounding to the housing?

[petehoovie]

The 2.3 volt reading could result from any high resistance connection/component in the circuit to the coil including connections at the resistor and ignition switch. Just this past summer, I had to replace the original resistor and ignition switch in my '34 in order to get the proper/correct voltage readings at the coil...

[34 fordor owner]

Originally Posted by petehoovie

The 2.3 volt reading could result from any high resistance connection/component in the circuit to the coil including connections at the resistor and ignition switch. Just this past summer, I had to replace the original resistor and ignition switch in my '34 in order to get the proper/correct voltage readings at the coil...

I took the coil off to test this and with the coil off and wire connected I get 6.3 to the coil so it is something at the distributor throwing the volts off.

[Mart]

Try and get the distributor to the position where the points are open. (No continuity to ground). Then refit the coil and check you still have your 6.3 Volts.

The lower voltage reading you are seeing may be perfectly normal if the points are closed. (not sure).

Just checking - are you getting any sign of a spark at a plug, yet?

Mart.

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by 34 fordor owner

I took the coil off to test this and with the coil off and wire connected I get 6.3 to the coil so it is something at the distributor throwing the volts off.

Voltage readings at the coil with coil mounted on distributor:
With the ignition switch on you should have 6 volts at the coil if the points are open and about 3.5 to 4 volts at the coil if the points are closed - The 2.3 volts you are reading is too low with the points closed. You can tell when the points are open or closed by the change in voltage as measured at the coil. With the ignition switch on, bump the starter a little bit to observe the change in voltage....

[34 fordor owner]

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Originally Posted by petehoovie

Voltage readings at the coil with coil mounted on distributor:
With the ignition switch on you should have 6 volts at the coil if the points are open and about 3.5 to 4 volts at the coil if the points are closed - The 2.3 volts you are reading is too low with the points closed. You can tell when the points are open or closed by the change in voltage as measured at the coil. With the ignition switch on, bump the starter a little bit to observe the change in voltage....

Hey everyone I have some good news and some bad news. I bought a NOS condenser to see if that would do anything and I got it in today and I now have spark. That’s the good news! The somewhat bad news is when trying to start it, it kicked over 2 times as if it wanted to start but it didn’t start all the way and I couldn’t get it to kick over again. So I have spark and it wanted to start but it wouldn’t do it again.

Also I have 6.3 with points open 2.5 with points closed.

[34 fordor owner]

Originally Posted by 34 fordor owner

Hey everyone I have some good news and some bad news. I bought a NOS condenser to see if that would do anything and I got it in today and I now have spark. That’s the good news! The somewhat bad news is when trying to start it, it kicked over 2 times as if it wanted to start but it didn’t start all the way and I couldn’t get it to kick over again. So I have spark and it wanted to start but it wouldn’t do it again.

Also I have 6.3 with points open 2.5 with points closed.

My concerns are on timing, I also want to make sure the tail pip is clear as it had been sitting in a garage/barn with evidence of mice. Also the low dip in the voltage when points are closed, should that be a concern?

[Lanny]

hi Chris, Are you sure it's still getting gas, and/or maybe it's flooded.

Also, do you have someone you can get to hold a hand over the end
of the exhaust pipe, to see if some air is coming out there, when you
turn it over ? The odds of it being plugged solid is very slim.




.

[34 fordor owner]

Originally Posted by Lanny

hi Chris, Are you sure it's still getting gas, and/or maybe it's flooded.

Also, do you have someone you can get to hold a hand over the end
of the exhaust pipe, to see if some air is coming out there, when you
turn it over ? The odds of it being plugged solid is very slim.




.

It is possible it’s flooded but I only pumped the pedal 4 or 5 times so if it is what would I do? And there is air coming out I noticed it has been blowing stuff out of the exhaust pipe like a few chewed pecans.

[Lanny]

Pull some spark plugs and see if the electrodes are wet or not.
If the plugs are pretty dry looking, then maybe spray a little
starting fluid into the carb and see if it will try to start.




.

[34 fordor owner]

Originally Posted by Lanny

Pull some spark plugs and see if the electrodes are wet or not.
If the plugs are pretty dry looking, then maybe spray a little
starting fluid into the carb and see if it will try to start.




.

Check this video out. Progress from the other video. This is trying to start it with half of choke and a good squirt of starting fluid. What do y’all think?

https://youtube.com/shorts/S3mq0LW27AM?feature=share

[petehoovie]

Have you done a compression check? What are the engines compression values? Check to see if the engine has decent compression....

[34 fordor owner]

Originally Posted by petehoovie

Have you done a compression check? What are the engines compression values? Check to see if the engine has decent compression....

I have not done this because I don’t know how. Could you explain or point me in the right direction?

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by 34 fordor owner

I have not done this because I don’t know how. Could you explain or point me in the right direction?

Watch these videos for the procedure > https://www.youtube.com/results?sear...on+test+engine

OR, if you don't want to do the compression test, you can remove the spark plugs and squirt a little motor oil into each cylinder. Replace the spark plugs and then try to start the engine....

Four-Stroke = Intake - Compression - Combustion - Exhaust

[34 fordor owner]

Originally Posted by petehoovie

Watch these videos for the procedure > https://www.youtube.com/results?sear...on+test+engine

OR, if you don't want to do the compression test, you can remove the spark plugs and squirt a little motor oil into each cylinder. Replace the spark plugs and then try to start the engine....

Four-Stroke = Intake - Compression - Combustion - Exhaust

Still fighting it, shot of oil in the spark plug holes didn’t do the trick. Plan to rent a compression tester from advance auto.
I was thinking about switching to 12 volt so I could switch to a electric distributor. This would prevent from a future battle with the distributor and spark. What are y’all’s take on 12volt?

Thank you to all for the help!

[petehoovie]

Contact the people in the Early Ford V8 Club nearest you and try to get some in-person help with your starting problem....

NC
Piedmont (RG# 52)

920 Elderberry Lane
Clover, NC 60196
Contact: Michael Palmer
EM: [email protected]
PH: 803-831-9413
NC
Central Carolina (RG# 16)

382 JL Temple Road
Lexington, NC 27295
Contact: Jay Temple
EM: [email protected]
PH: 336-956-4438
NC
Blue Ridge V-8 (RG# 146)

246 Lakewood Drive
Wilkesboro, NC 28697
Contact: James Cashman
EM: [email protected]
PH: 336-921-3729

[Lanny]

Originally Posted by 34 fordor owner

Still fighting it, shot of oil in the spark plug holes didn’t do the trick. Plan to rent a compression tester from advance auto.
I was thinking about switching to 12 volt so I could switch to a electric distributor. This would prevent from a future battle with the distributor and spark. What are y’all’s take on 12volt?

Thank you to all for the help!

================================================== ========


Chris, when doing a compression test, use a long screw driver or something
to hold the bottom throttle plate open on the carb. You want the cylinders
to be able to suck a lot of air into each cylinder so you get an accurate
compression reading.




.

[34 fordor owner]

Originally Posted by petehoovie

Contact the people in the Early Ford V8 Club nearest you and try to get some in-person help with your starting problem....

NC
Piedmont (RG# 52)

920 Elderberry Lane
Clover, NC 60196
Contact: Michael Palmer
EM: [email protected]
PH: 803-831-9413
NC
Central Carolina (RG# 16)

382 JL Temple Road
Lexington, NC 27295
Contact: Jay Temple
EM: [email protected]
PH: 336-956-4438
NC
Blue Ridge V-8 (RG# 146)

246 Lakewood Drive
Wilkesboro, NC 28697
Contact: James Cashman
EM: [email protected]
PH: 336-921-3729

Thank you for this! I knew of the club but had no idea I had people this close to me in the club. I will try and contact some tomorrow!

[koates]

In all the posts so far you have not convinced me that you have tested at one spark plug for a good spark. And now you are talking about 12 volts and electronic distributor. Dont even think about it and just fix the excellent 6 volt ignition that the car came with. Forget about testing voltages and just test to see if you are getting spark at the plug leads. By the way your engine is cranking over on the starter at a nice speed as it should and it is not too fast as has been mentioned earlier. Pull one spark plug lead off the spark plug and hold it about 1/4"inch away from a head stud nut and crank the engine on the starter. You should get a red/blue TIMED spark meaning that there is some time lag between sparks. Your assumption that the voltage readings you are measuring at the coil are not OK may not be correct. Others have mentioned that these voltage readings can vary quite a bit, so just forget about that at the moment because you are becoming sidetracked with it. Just test that spark as I have outlined and report back. Regards, Kevin.

[Terry,OH]

Why do you have two wires coming out of your coil?

[koates]

Terry, I did notice that as well seeming to be connected to the condenser terminal. He says he had that coil rewound. Does not look correct. Regards, Kevin.

[34 fordor owner]

Originally Posted by koates

Terry, I did notice that as well seeming to be connected to the condenser terminal. He says he had that coil rewound. Does not look correct. Regards, Kevin.

I Believe what y’all are talking about is one wire being the coil power and the other wire was used for the condenser. That’s why it was connected to the condenser terminal.