California pcv ??

[fast fredy]

this is what I'm doing , with a new filter . As you thought its probably been sucking a lot of oil spray, the adapter at the carb inlet seemed a bit cruddy so its cleaned out as well as the drain back tube down below. I;m pretty confident that it'll be the best it can be .. thanks everyone for your input Fred

[KULTULZ]

That should do it along with the original filter. You don't want splash collecting in the crimped off tube.

Keep an eye on the filter material as it will need to replaced over time.

When assembled, put a vacuum gauge over the dipstick tube. If it pulls 2 to 3 Hg @ idle it should be good. Hopefully the PCV valve was calibrated correctly for the fuel trim.

You figured it out ...

[fast fredy]

thanks for your inspiration and encouragment Fred

[KULTULZ]

You are more than welcome.

Keep the board posted as to how it goes.

[Patrick brophy]

Originally Posted by dmsfrr

The PVC valve is a friction fit into the grommet in the valley pan.
The top of the curved hose plugs into the spacer plate or carburetor.

More than one T-Bird parts supplier may sell these. You should be able to make a DIY copy for less.
Example...
https://www.classictbird.com/PCV-Con...uctinfo/6758A/
.

If I were to go that route, I have a Holley 4160 .
It has a large vacuum port at the rear or the carb that is capped with a rubber cup. Would that do the same as the gizmo in the photo ?

What PCV valve should I be using? I can get the bushing, and that way I could place the PCV valve much higher in the hose.

Is the spacer under the carb needed?

[dmsfrr]

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Originally Posted by Patrick brophy

If I were to go that route, I have a Holley 4160 . It has a large vacuum port at the rear or the carb that is capped with a rubber cup. Would that do the same as the gizmo in the photo ? ...

Yes it should, unless the crankcase is putting out enough fumes to possibly clog the bottom of the carburetor.

Originally Posted by Patrick brophy

...
What PCV valve should I be using? I can get the bushing, and that way I could place the PCV valve much higher in the hose. ...

You'll need a valve with ends to work with the hose(s) you have, from a similar displacement engine. In the 20 cubic inch plus or minus range from the engine it's going on would be my guess.
Mounting the valve vertically or horizontally could make a difference, depending on the valve.

Originally Posted by Patrick brophy

... Is the spacer under the carb needed?

Yes, it helps keep heat away from the fuel bowls / carburetor and may also provide needed throttle linkage & throttle plate clearance to the intake manifold.
Newer carburetors often have larger diameter throttle butterfly plates than the openings in the top of an 'older' intake manifold. That can cause the throttle to jam up.
.

[Patrick brophy]

The reason asked about the spacer is the new Holley carburetor is a little taller than the one that was on it. I am running into a clearance issue closing the hood. It is that close.

[dmsfrr]

Originally Posted by Patrick brophy

The reason asked about the spacer is the new Holley carburetor is a little taller than the one that was on it. I am running into a clearance issue closing the hood. It is that close.

If you look around a little you may find them in different thicknesses.
I prefer the old Bakelite ones instead of aluminum but they're harder to find.
Stacking a few gaskets instead may or may not be a good idea.

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by Patrick brophy

The reason asked about the spacer is the new Holley carburetor is a little taller than the one that was on it. I am running into a clearance issue closing the hood. It is that close.

Your BIRD is a '57?

The 4160 is taller than the OEM HOLLEY? By about how much?

The 57 BIRD came through with a 1/4" spacer.

[Patrick brophy]

Originally Posted by KULTULZ

Your BIRD is a '57?

The 4160 is taller than the OEM HOLLEY? By about how much?

The 57 BIRD came through with a 1/4" spacer.

I do not know how much taller it is,as I don,t have the OEM .I was also let to believe that it came with a Motorcraft carburetor. I received the car in pieces.
As it sits right now the hood fails to clear by about 3/8s of an inch.

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by Patrick brophy

I do not know how much taller it is,as I don,t have the OEM .I was also let to believe that it came with a Motorcraft carburetor. I received the car in pieces.

As it sits right now the hood fails to clear by about 3/8s of an inch.

Can you provide a photo of the carb and if a HOLLEY, it will have a LIST NO (and FORD ID NO if FORD issued) on the carb air-horn.

Is the intake manifold cast iron (4V) and have CASTING ID NOS. ECZ-9425-B?

How close to OEM ASSEMBLY are you aiming for?

[dmsfrr]

Originally Posted by Patrick brophy

I do not know how much taller it is,as I don,t have the OEM .I was also let to believe that it came with a Motorcraft carburetor. I received the car in pieces.
As it sits right now the hood fails to clear by about 3/8s of an inch.

The 4bbl '57 T-Birds originally came with a Holley List 1273 carburetor (automatic transmission),
List 1272 for a manual transmission.
They are more compact, to fit under the lowered T-Bird style air cleaner better than the Autolite/Ford/Motorcraft style carburetor used on the full-sized Fords.

The height of a Holley 1273 from the bottom of the base plate to the air cleaner flange is 3 & 1/4 inches. 4 & 9/16 to the top of the air horn and 6 inches to the top of the front bowl vent tube.

Patrick brophy, does the car have an original style air cleaner? or something else? For hood clearance the original style fits around and mostly below the top of the carburetor. Photo 2 & 3
.

[Patrick brophy]

First OEM is not an issue. This is going to be a driver.

When I received the car in parts it came with a air cleaner off a 1956 Tbird, but it still should have fit . It don't.

The new Holley carburetor does not have a List # on it. I still have the box it came in and it is marked as a 4160c universal 600 polished. The Holley part # is 0-80457S If w/ the electric choke. It does.

I did pick up a after market air cleaner that did not work out due the the clearance issue. The parts guy was aware of what was going on, and he ordered me a different style base for the air cleaner from the same company. That helped but did not completely solve the problem. It got me real close, which is why I questioned the need of the spacer under the carburetor.

[Patrick brophy]

It is a ECZ 9426-B

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by Patrick brophy

First OEM is not an issue. This is going to be a driver.

When I received the car in parts it came with a air cleaner off a 1956 Tbird, but it still should have fit . It don't.

The new Holley carburetor does not have a List # on it. I still have the box it came in and it is marked as a 4160c universal 600 polished. The Holley part # is 0-80457S If w/ the electric choke. It does.

I did pick up a after market air cleaner that did not work out due the the clearance issue. The parts guy was aware of what was going on, and he ordered me a different style base for the air cleaner from the same company. That helped but did not completely solve the problem. It got me real close, which is why I questioned the need of the spacer under the carburetor.

First, the spacer is needed as the carb should be isolated from engine heat. Vapor lock was a problem back then but with blended gasoline is even worse now. But you could run it w/o a spacer and see how it goes. The 55/56 used five paper gaskets stapled together as a heat shield due to the height of the H-4000 CARB.

The CARB you now have is possibly taller as it it a newer design using an aluminum body. First I have heard of one but I am twenty years behind times. Maybe if you measure the height from the bottom of the throttle plate to the carb air horn where the ACL sits down, someone here could measure their original HOLLEY.

You are working with a 56 base and 57 lid or is it aftermarket?

The only other possibilities that come to mind may be the engine sitting too high (front mount) or the front clip is dipped in the front.

Measure the carb if you can as if no one here has one to measure I have a H-4180 that I could measure. Also measure the height of the cleaner element.

[dmsfrr]

Originally Posted by Patrick brophy

... When I received the car in parts it came with a air cleaner off a 1956 Tbird, but it still should have fit . It don't.
....

A '56 T-Bird originally came with a Holley 4000 'Teapot' style carburetor and an oil-bath air cleaner.
They're not overly similar to the '57 carb & air cleaner setup.
.

[KULTULZ]

Originally Posted by dmsfrr

A '56 T-Bird originally came with a Holley 4000 'Teapot' style carburetor and an oil-bath air cleaner.

They're not overly similar to the '57 carb & air cleaner setup.
.

Do you have both years ACL assemblies? Do you have an original carb to measure?

[dmsfrr]

Originally Posted by KULTULZ

Do you have both years ACL assemblies? Do you have an original carb to measure?

I don't have any '56 Bird carburetors or air cleaners, just a '56 intake manifold. (For Sale, cheap)

OEM Holley List #1273 carburetor for a '57 Bird?
I have two or three, one is on the '57 intake on the engine in my '55 Bird. It sits on a 1/2 inch thick Bakelite spacer. Photo 1 below.
Height measurements were back in reply # 72, and are copied here...

The height of a Holley 1273 from the bottom of the base plate to the air cleaner flange is 3 & 1/4 inches. 4 & 9/16 to the top of the air horn and 6 inches to the top of the front bowl vent tube..

'57 Bird air cleaner? I have three.
Two of them are shown back in reply # 72, also in photo 2 below with the top cover on.

[Patrick brophy]

OK, just got a huge bit of help from a neighbor who runs a machine shop who just happened to stop in this morning.
I was in the process of measuring the height of the base plate to the air cleaner flange.
As I was explaining the height issue ,I showed him the by now ,three air cleaners that do not work.
As we were talking he said that there was a rather deep flange on the under side of the third base plate that I had bought.That was the one that was supposed lower the air cleaner several inches.It did but that was not enough.
He said that the flange was almost 3/4 of an inch and he could machine 1/2 of an inch off and the flange would still have the stiffness needed.
He took the base and called be a short time later to pick it up.
I have and it worked out great.It was a little close in the rear with the throttle linkage, but it clears.
The next time I call for parts at Hill's Auto, I am going to pick their brains as to the difference ,if there is any,in the 3 years 55,56 and 57. At some point I would like to get the correct air cleaner, as it does brighten up the engine bay. But this will do for now.
My carb also measures 3 1/4 to the air cleaner flange.
Thanks for all the input and comments, they are appreciated.
Patrick

[dmsfrr]

Originally Posted by Patrick brophy

...
The next time I call for parts at Hill's Auto, I am going to pick their brains as to the difference ,if there is any,in the 3 years 55,56 and 57. At some point I would like to get the correct air cleaner, as it does brighten up the engine bay. But this will do for now.
...

1st gen T-Bird air cleaners have a cork lip on the front. It helps block hot air coming from the radiator & fan. The top lid of the air cleaner may be Argent (silver) paint or chrome if the Engine Dress-up option was ordered.

The '55 and '56 are both oil bath type, fit on the Holley 'teapot' style carburetors and look nearly the same. But the '56 version has a largish dimple on the right side of the bottom half, to clear the choke housing. The '55 version doesn't have the dimple (or a carb mounted choke housing).
Both years have a fibrous material inside the lid that should be cleaned regularly, along with changing the oil in the base and cleaning it out.

A '57 C or D code air cleaner uses a circular dry pleated element. The lower half of the filter housing may or may not have 3 bumps around the middle. The bumps keep carb vacuum from sucking the lid downward too far and choking off the air flow.
I don't know if this was a running change to their production or something else???
The double nuts on the center hold-down stud in photo 3 serve the same purpose. I cover them with a rubber or plastic washer to avoid metal filings dropping into the carb.