1950 8BA Oil Gusher

[fordbruce]

My 1950 Ford Custom was driven only 400 miles since 1987 until June 2017 . When I got it I changed the oil and put SAE 30 in it . I have driven it 4,000 miles since July . It uses an average 1 quart of oil every 150 miles , and also uses coolant. Has not overheated .Also bought an aluminum radiator . I took off the heads and intake manifold and cleaned under the intake .Did not see any cracks at all . Motor has 56,000 original miles . Does not smoke and runs well . Would using 20-50 oil with Zinc make this engine use less oil and less coolant ?Can anyone PLEASE tell me what my next step should be? THANKS IN ADVANCE , Bruce 🚗🚙🚕

[JSeery]

Zinc is not going to help anything. A heavier viscosity oil is beneficial if the bearing clearance is a little excessive, but don't think it will help much with rings or valve guides. Try a stop leak on the coolant. That is fairly high mileage on a flathead if it has not been well maintained, do you know the maintenance history?

[fordbruce]

No I don’t know the history of it ....it has a new radiator and 2 new water pumps . The water is blowing somewhere and so is the oil . All the cylinders have 100 + pressure . It just blew a new head gasket 3 days ago .....it must have had a weak spot on the copper gasket ...(strange), All I can think of is valve seals valve lapping rings and bearings ...Thanks

[V12Bill]

If you fill the radiator to the top, it will blow coolant out as it warms up and expands. The proper level of the coolant should be about 1/2" or so above the core. I think I would check for oil leaks on an engine using that much oil. If the oil was passing through the combustion chamber, the plugs would be fouling up in short order.

[SofaKing]

Originally Posted by fordbruce

No I don’t know the history of it ....it has a new radiator and 2 new water pumps . The water is blowing somewhere and so is the oil . All the cylinders have 100 + pressure . It just blew a new head gasket 3 days ago .....it must have had a weak spot on the copper gasket ...(strange), All I can think of is valve seals valve lapping rings and bearings ...Thanks

If it just blew a head gasket, I'd start my search there. Post pictures of the spark plugs if you have them out.

[Ross F-1]

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I'd really doubt it burns a quart in 150 miles, there would be an enormous cloud all around you. It is much more likely to be leaking that much. The rear main seal may have dried out in storage. The lines to the oil filter (if it has one) may be cracked. Park it over a clean surface (a piece of cardboard) and see where the drips are coming from.

[fordbruce]

The spark plugs are carboned .

[fordbruce]

You’re right there should be a cloud around this car ,but there isn’t and it does not leak on the floor ....

[alanwoodieman]

run some marvel mystery oil in engine oil and run 20W50 non synthetic oil. I would bet that the oil rings are stuck and this is causing the oil consumption. also run the engine until warm, without cap, and then fill to the bottom of neck, as stated they will blow out if filled cold and also will blow out more than just to the full mark. I would also run some MMO in the gas tank. drive it around and get it hot. also avoid the copper head gaskets, use BEST composit gaskets and remember to retorque after the first heat up. also check head for warpage if it blew a head gasket

[fordbruce]

Thank you for responding. In the 4,000 miles I have put on this car I have tried the MMO , in with the oil and in the gas tank. Next I’ll try the MMO with the 20-50 oil . I’ve also been told to use the Valvaline 20-50 oil with Zinc

[slowforty]

Try a composite head gasket, Speedway has them. Dont forget to re torque the heads at least TWICE. Dont ask how I know.

[40 Deluxe]

How did the cylinder walls look? No scoring? Good! Highly polished? Not good! If they're glazed, it's an indication new rings are needed, along with honing the cylinders, of course. You can keep trying the mouse milk approach, or bite the bullet and drop the pan and push the pistons out and clean the carbon off the rings and ring grooves. Or, better yet, just put new rings in. Unless there is obvious, easily seen damage to a piston(s), all you need are a gasket set and the rings. Lap in the valves by hand and you will have done a '50's style overhaul (valve and ring job) and be good to go for many more years.

[chap52]

Originally Posted by 40 Deluxe

How did the cylinder walls look? No scoring? Good! Highly polished? Not good! If they're glazed, it's an indication new rings are needed, along with honing the cylinders, of course. You can keep trying the mouse milk approach, or bite the bullet and drop the pan and push the pistons out and clean the carbon off the rings and ring grooves. Or, better yet, just put new rings in. Unless there is obvious, easily seen damage to a piston(s), all you need are a gasket set and the rings. Lap in the valves by hand and you will have done a '50's style overhaul (valve and ring job) and be good to go for many more years.

X2. Just decide to do the complete job while you got it opened. Sure it is easier with the engine out of the car but if you can get someone to lay on the floor and handle the lower end wrenching while yo slide the pistons in it is a fairly easy project. Go with new rings or you will be there again sooner than you want to be. Caution: When I replaced pistons (if you go that far) I ended up with a domed piston instead of the flat ones and had to "foil", measure and do a bit of Dremel head machining to get the proper clearance. Check clearances before buttoning down the head...Don't ask!

[JSeery]

Originally Posted by fordbruce

I’ve also been told to use the Valvaline 20-50 oil with Zinc

You do not need any additional "Zinc" additive over normal oil levels in this engine. That is just plain incorrect information.

[19Fordy]

Try using some oil leak trace dye.
https://www.popularmechanics.com/car.../a106/1272471/

[JWL]

I like the 20-50 Valvoline for an unknown engine history. I suggest driving at WOT (wide open throttle) as often as possible for the next several miles. If in town do low and second gears at WOT. Go to WOT up to about 3000 RPM and coast down to slow then repeat, repeat, repeat. The theory is to load the rings as much as possible with combustion pressure and hope they will "seat" to the walls. DO NOT allow the engine to overheat.

Is the tailpipe showing oil drips and build up? Does the breather indicate heavy blow by? Is the proper crankcase breather system in place? Is the stock fuel pump in use? Does the oil accumulate gasoline or smell like gas? When the heads were off could you see wet, oily, chambers?

As a previous post indicates, it is important to have clean, flat surfaces for the head gaskets and to RE-TORQUE the fasteners multiple times after heating and cooling cycles.