The Ford Barn

dan · 10-20-2010, 09:25 PM

I've seen the answer to this before, but a search didn't find the thread I remember. So, does it matter which direction the t-stat faces in the hose? I'm about to put my new radiator on and need to figure this out before I put the hoses back on.

brokenspoke · 10-20-2010, 10:05 PM

yes.....the box it came in will say which way..or it should

dan · 10-20-2010, 10:53 PM

Unfortunately, it came in a bag--which means no directions. Maybe ill post a picture and someone who has done it before and remembers can advise.

Tom Wesenberg · 10-20-2010, 11:15 PM

The wax pellet faces the head. In other words the shallowest (flatest) side faces the radiator.

I drilled two 1/8" holes in my thermostat and installed it so the holes were on top (the highest location as mounted).

30Tudor · 10-20-2010, 11:29 PM

I might also suggest securing it in the hose with a hose clamp so it doesn't get pushed up towards the radiator.

pooch · 12-23-2010, 04:27 PM

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Save starting a new thread.

I want to install a thermostat.

Do aftermarket ones fit inside the hose only?

If so, where on west coast USA can I get one?

Could a band be soldered on to any one that I may be able to buy here that is the right diameter to locate it inside hose.

I presume it would fit down against head outlet neck?

Special Coupe Frank · 12-23-2010, 04:46 PM

Outside of getting a custom two-piece water-outlet neck that is cast to hold a regular poppet-type thermostat, the hose type is the only(?) option.

I haven't measured mine, but it sure looks like a Stant S 335-160 (small-block chevy V-8) with a stainless-steel collar welded to it, and two 1/8" bleed holes drilled in the flange for bypass.

Most modern stats I've seen have stainless bodies, so I don't know if soldering is an option.

As far as West-Coast suppliers go, there must be an A-supplier in California somewhere; if not, then there's Bert's in Colorado...

I put a 160* F hose-stat in my '28 this fall and it is great. If I were going to run the car through the whole winter, I would use a 180*.

It does not have to fit down against the outlet neck, as long as there are by-pass holes for water to circulate. I have a clamp around the hose to keep mine about 1/2-way between the outlet neck and the radiator inlet.

rob mcdonald · 12-23-2010, 04:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dan

I've seen the answer to this before, but a search didn't find the thread I remember. So, does it matter which direction the t-stat faces in the hose? I'm about to put my new radiator on and need to figure this out before I put the hoses back on.

Look at the online Brattons catalog photo of thermostats and the end showing is the end pointing toward the Radiator. The Photos also shows the two drilled holes Tom mentioned. This is the type that fits inside the nose. HAPPY HOLIDAYS

rob mcdonald · 12-23-2010, 05:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pooch

Save starting a new thread.

I want to install a thermostat.

Do aftermarket ones fit inside the hose only?

If so, where on west coast USA can I get one?

Could a band be soldered on to any one that I may be able to buy here that is the right diameter to locate it inside hose.

I presume it would fit down against head outlet neck?

Starting in maybe the late fifties thermostats fit into a thin recess about 3/32" deep. The recess was between the block and the casting with the upper water hose neck.
The A thermostat has a tube matching the inside of the upper radiator hose welded to the thermostat. Slide the thermostat inside the upper hose and the tube is to keep the thermostat in place. Someone mentioned putting a clamp on the thermostat to keep it from moving. Yes you could buy a thermostat and weld a tube on.

Larry Seemann · 12-23-2010, 05:46 PM

I use chainlink fence post pipe because it's thin walled and galvanized and cut about 2 inches and weld the thermostat to it with about 3 or 4 spots with the wirefeed.

pooch · 12-23-2010, 07:24 PM

Thanks for all ideas.

Are the 2 bypass holes to stop any impeller friction and maybe stopping the belt from turning when thermostat is cold?

I note that fan belt is run loose to make it easier on the fan/pump bearing.

I thought it would be best fitted down near neck, as it would sense head temperature quicker and open when needed.

I want to fit a thermostat for 2 reasons.

First is because of short runs this car is liable to do.

Second is so I can see my motometer WORK.

PC/SR · 12-23-2010, 07:38 PM

Sacramento Vintage Ford is in Calif and has the collar type Tstats. The holes are primarily an air bleed to prevent a bubble, and allow a little circulation when cold. No need to run the belt loose. It should be down near the neck as you say for early sensing, secured by a hose clamp.

Mitch//pa · 12-23-2010, 07:46 PM

the bypass holes are for allowing some circulation for when the stat is closed. the bypass holes are usually positioned towards the top to allow any trapped air to get through. some modern cars have air bleeds in the thermostat as they are usually mounted more horizontal then a stat in the model A hose which has more of an incline up to the radiator neck.

Tom Wesenberg · 12-23-2010, 07:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pooch

Save starting a new thread.

I want to install a thermostat.

Do aftermarket ones fit inside the hose only?

If so, where on west coast USA can I get one?

Could a band be soldered on to any one that I may be able to buy here that is the right diameter to locate it inside hose.

I presume it would fit down against head outlet neck?

I bought my 160* stat at a swap meet for $1. It's the common size and fits tight in the hose. It would probably be fine by itself, but to make sure it didn't turn sideways or slip up the hose, I stuck a 2" long piece of hose inside the top hose. Now the stat is pinched tight between the tight fitting inner hose and top of the outlet casting. As mentioned I drilled two 1/8" holes for some circulation so the hot water gets to the stat better.

PC/SR · 12-23-2010, 11:25 PM

I am not so sure that the stat stay in place, at least it did not for me. My car started overheating, would cool, overheat, etc cyclically after about 100 miles and I could not figure out why. Tore into the system, found the stat at the top of the hose. I theorize it overheated because the hot water in the head would not move up to the stat as fast as water in the block heated up then would open the stat as the hot water finally made it to the stat, then closed it, overheat, etc. Drilling bigger holes would have helped hot water circulation. I may do that next time it is down because I still get temp fluctuations but not bad. (Temp probe at rear of head, which will be more sensitive to the cool radiator water coming in.) I hold it in place at the outlet with a clamp but Tom's interior hose obviously works and looks original. Did not think of that. I only wonder if the smaller interior hose would be a problem on a system that was marginal to start with.

pooch · 12-24-2010, 01:01 AM

Bought a 160 today.

Will use Tom's idea and jam it in.

Will future post if the motometer shows.

Tom Wesenberg · 12-24-2010, 01:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PC/SR

I am not so sure that the stat stay in place, at least it did not for me. My car started overheating, would cool, overheat, etc cyclically after about 100 miles and I could not figure out why. Tore into the system, found the stat at the top of the hose. I theorize it overheated because the hot water in the head would not move up to the stat as fast as water in the block heated up then would open the stat as the hot water finally made it to the stat, then closed it, overheat, etc. Drilling bigger holes would have helped hot water circulation. I may do that next time it is down because I still get temp fluctuations but not bad. (Temp probe at rear of head, which will be more sensitive to the cool radiator water coming in.) I hold it in place at the outlet with a clamp but Tom's interior hose obviously works and looks original. Did not think of that. I only wonder if the smaller interior hose would be a problem on a system that was marginal to start with.

Not a problem at all.

I'm using an original radiator, shroud, and fan. I'd loose 2 or 3 quarts of coolant every 50 mile trip I made, until I installed the thermostat. That solved the coolant loss problem, but my car was still running very hot, like about 210*. After I did the cleaning and flushing this summer, now it runs at least 20* cooler. The inner hose is no restriction, as it's larger than the thermostat opening. I first used a 4" piece of inner hose, but that made slipping the hose into place very difficult without moving the radiator forward. When I removed the thermostat during the cleaning and flushing this summer I cut the inner hose back to 2" and that works fine. Now I can easily install or remove the top hose without removing the supports rods.

Tom Wesenberg · 03-25-2011, 03:27 PM

PC/SR was correct. I just removed the top hose on Mark's 31 and found the thermostat with the skirt welded on had slipped to the top of the hose. So, it either needs a clamp over the thermostat, or I'll find a short length of hose that fits tight inside the upper radiator hose and jam it in to pinch the thermostat against the water outlet on top of the head.

TinCup · 03-25-2011, 04:50 PM

I just did this for a friend of mine this week. We had to replace a blown head gastket (Brand New Premium Gasket) Ha!.
It was an off the shelf unit from Napa. We had to grind it down to fit the ID of the hose. I also drilled a hole at the top and the bottom. I was going to put a wire clamp over the area but my friend who is 85 and use to install these before his health mandated he quit used another piece of hose whose OD was the same as the top hose ID. He cut it to be short enough for both of the necks to fit. Holds the tstat in place. First time I had seen this method.

Jim Parker Toronto · 03-25-2011, 06:27 PM

I just bought and installed a thermostat housing from Vintage. It takes a regular thermostat (Chevy, I think). It also has provisions for a guage coupling and a larger port to put in a heater inside the car. Very satisfied......

Mitch//pa · 03-25-2011, 06:53 PM

i just put a t stat in and held it in place with an old lower hose. it fit inside the upper hose perfectly and used about half the lenght of the original one.

TinCup · 03-25-2011, 07:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mitch//pa

i just put a t stat in and held it in place with an old lower hose. it fit inside the upper hose perfectly and used about half the lenght of the original one.

Exactly what I did for my buddy.

AKsportcoupe · 03-25-2011, 10:38 PM

Snyders has thermostats. they are welded to a short piece of stainless pipe and fit perfectly within the upper hose. It is supposed to fit up against the upper end of the hose next to the radiator pipe. No need for any extra clamp.

I installed one a couple of weeks ago... I should have done it years ago. Quick warmup, steady temp at 160. Really nice.

Tom

CarlG · 03-26-2011, 01:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jim Parker Toronto

I just bought and installed a thermostat housing from Vintage. It takes a regular thermostat (Chevy, I think). It also has provisions for a guage coupling and a larger port to put in a heater inside the car. Very satisfied......

I am putting mine in this morning.

925DiabloA · 03-28-2011, 11:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jim Parker Toronto

I just bought and installed a thermostat housing from Vintage. It takes a regular thermostat (Chevy, I think). It also has provisions for a guage coupling and a larger port to put in a heater inside the car. Very satisfied......

Here is some more info on the Vintage Precision thermostat housing. The kit includes a 160 degree thermostat, the base with ports (1/2" NPT, 1/4" NPT) and plugs for temp gauge senders / heater option, 45 bent neck for standard 2" hose, O-ring and bolts, instructions, painted ready to install. - $92.50 ea. - In Stock

www.VintagePrecision.com

Jim Parker Toronto · 03-28-2011, 06:53 PM

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

925DiabloA, thats twice now you have used me for advertising, your product is great and looks really good! Well made and machined and buying was easy. Delievery was great, only 4 days from your place to mine in Toronto. (You have my address to send my commissions!) (haha) Jim

steve s · 03-28-2011, 08:25 PM

The Vintage Precision product is indeed slick and well made, but it does look a bit goofy, for the info of those who still cling to an illusion of authenticity, which clearly the owner of this car has let go.

Steve

CarlG · 03-28-2011, 10:21 PM

Looks great, along with the alternator, plug wires, and down draft carb.

10-20-2010, 09:25 PM	#1
dan Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: McPherson, KS Posts: 197	T-stat install I've seen the answer to this before, but a search didn't find the thread I remember. So, does it matter which direction the t-stat faces in the hose? I'm about to put my new radiator on and need to figure this out before I put the hoses back on.

10-20-2010, 10:05 PM	#2
brokenspoke Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Anderson, Texas Posts: 275	Re: T-stat install yes.....the box it came in will say which way..or it should

10-20-2010, 10:53 PM	#3
dan Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: McPherson, KS Posts: 197	Re: T-stat install Unfortunately, it came in a bag--which means no directions. Maybe ill post a picture and someone who has done it before and remembers can advise.

10-20-2010, 11:15 PM	#4
Tom Wesenberg Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Mpls, MN Posts: 27,582	Re: T-stat install The wax pellet faces the head. In other words the shallowest (flatest) side faces the radiator. I drilled two 1/8" holes in my thermostat and installed it so the holes were on top (the highest location as mounted).

10-20-2010, 11:29 PM	#5
30Tudor Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Calgary, Alberta, Canada Posts: 211	Re: T-stat install I might also suggest securing it in the hose with a hose clamp so it doesn't get pushed up towards the radiator.

12-23-2010, 04:27 PM	#6
pooch Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: South Coast NSW Australia Posts: 2,596	Re: T-stat install Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) Save starting a new thread. I want to install a thermostat. Do aftermarket ones fit inside the hose only? If so, where on west coast USA can I get one? Could a band be soldered on to any one that I may be able to buy here that is the right diameter to locate it inside hose. I presume it would fit down against head outlet neck?

12-23-2010, 04:46 PM	#7
Special Coupe Frank Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Northeast Penna Posts: 2,108	Re: T-stat install Outside of getting a custom two-piece water-outlet neck that is cast to hold a regular poppet-type thermostat, the hose type is the only(?) option. I haven't measured mine, but it sure looks like a Stant S 335-160 (small-block chevy V-8) with a stainless-steel collar welded to it, and two 1/8" bleed holes drilled in the flange for bypass. Most modern stats I've seen have stainless bodies, so I don't know if soldering is an option. As far as West-Coast suppliers go, there must be an A-supplier in California somewhere; if not, then there's Bert's in Colorado... I put a 160* F hose-stat in my '28 this fall and it is great. If I were going to run the car through the whole winter, I would use a 180. It does not have* to fit down against the outlet neck, as long as there are by-pass holes for water to circulate. I have a clamp around the hose to keep mine about 1/2-way between the outlet neck and the radiator inlet.

12-23-2010, 05:46 PM	#10
Larry Seemann Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Spokane, WA. Posts: 496	Re: T-stat install I use chainlink fence post pipe because it's thin walled and galvanized and cut about 2 inches and weld the thermostat to it with about 3 or 4 spots with the wirefeed. __________________ Larry Seemann

12-23-2010, 07:24 PM	#11
pooch Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: South Coast NSW Australia Posts: 2,596	Re: T-stat install Thanks for all ideas. Are the 2 bypass holes to stop any impeller friction and maybe stopping the belt from turning when thermostat is cold? I note that fan belt is run loose to make it easier on the fan/pump bearing. I thought it would be best fitted down near neck, as it would sense head temperature quicker and open when needed. I want to fit a thermostat for 2 reasons. First is because of short runs this car is liable to do. Second is so I can see my motometer WORK.

12-23-2010, 07:38 PM	#12
PC/SR Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Santa Rosa, CA Posts: 1,279	Re: T-stat install Sacramento Vintage Ford is in Calif and has the collar type Tstats. The holes are primarily an air bleed to prevent a bubble, and allow a little circulation when cold. No need to run the belt loose. It should be down near the neck as you say for early sensing, secured by a hose clamp.

12-23-2010, 07:46 PM	#13
Mitch//pa BANNED Join Date: May 2010 Location: Bucks County, PA Posts: 11,454	Re: T-stat install the bypass holes are for allowing some circulation for when the stat is closed. the bypass holes are usually positioned towards the top to allow any trapped air to get through. some modern cars have air bleeds in the thermostat as they are usually mounted more horizontal then a stat in the model A hose which has more of an incline up to the radiator neck. Last edited by Mitch//pa; 12-23-2010 at 07:58 PM.

12-23-2010, 11:25 PM	#15
PC/SR Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Santa Rosa, CA Posts: 1,279	Re: T-stat install I am not so sure that the stat stay in place, at least it did not for me. My car started overheating, would cool, overheat, etc cyclically after about 100 miles and I could not figure out why. Tore into the system, found the stat at the top of the hose. I theorize it overheated because the hot water in the head would not move up to the stat as fast as water in the block heated up then would open the stat as the hot water finally made it to the stat, then closed it, overheat, etc. Drilling bigger holes would have helped hot water circulation. I may do that next time it is down because I still get temp fluctuations but not bad. (Temp probe at rear of head, which will be more sensitive to the cool radiator water coming in.) I hold it in place at the outlet with a clamp but Tom's interior hose obviously works and looks original. Did not think of that. I only wonder if the smaller interior hose would be a problem on a system that was marginal to start with. Last edited by PC/SR; 12-23-2010 at 11:33 PM.

12-24-2010, 01:01 AM	#16
pooch Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: South Coast NSW Australia Posts: 2,596	Re: T-stat install Bought a 160 today. Will use Tom's idea and jam it in. Will future post if the motometer shows.

03-25-2011, 03:27 PM	#18
Tom Wesenberg Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Mpls, MN Posts: 27,582	Re: T-stat install PC/SR was correct. I just removed the top hose on Mark's 31 and found the thermostat with the skirt welded on had slipped to the top of the hose. So, it either needs a clamp over the thermostat, or I'll find a short length of hose that fits tight inside the upper radiator hose and jam it in to pinch the thermostat against the water outlet on top of the head.

03-25-2011, 04:50 PM	#19
TinCup Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: OKC / Tonkawa, Ok. Posts: 1,977	Re: T-stat install I just did this for a friend of mine this week. We had to replace a blown head gastket (Brand New Premium Gasket) Ha!. It was an off the shelf unit from Napa. We had to grind it down to fit the ID of the hose. I also drilled a hole at the top and the bottom. I was going to put a wire clamp over the area but my friend who is 85 and use to install these before his health mandated he quit used another piece of hose whose OD was the same as the top hose ID. He cut it to be short enough for both of the necks to fit. Holds the tstat in place. First time I had seen this method. __________________ Oklahoma City Model A Restorers Group.

03-25-2011, 06:27 PM	#20
Jim Parker Toronto Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada Posts: 1,289	Re: T-stat install I just bought and installed a thermostat housing from Vintage. It takes a regular thermostat (Chevy, I think). It also has provisions for a guage coupling and a larger port to put in a heater inside the car. Very satisfied......

03-25-2011, 06:53 PM	#21
Mitch//pa BANNED Join Date: May 2010 Location: Bucks County, PA Posts: 11,454	Re: T-stat install i just put a t stat in and held it in place with an old lower hose. it fit inside the upper hose perfectly and used about half the lenght of the original one.

03-25-2011, 10:38 PM	#23
AKsportcoupe Member Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Gustavus, Alaska Posts: 48	Re: T-stat install Snyders has thermostats. they are welded to a short piece of stainless pipe and fit perfectly within the upper hose. It is supposed to fit up against the upper end of the hose next to the radiator pipe. No need for any extra clamp. I installed one a couple of weeks ago... I should have done it years ago. Quick warmup, steady temp at 160. Really nice. Tom

03-28-2011, 06:53 PM	#26
Jim Parker Toronto Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada Posts: 1,289	Re: T-stat install Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) 925DiabloA, thats twice now you have used me for advertising, your product is great and looks really good! Well made and machined and buying was easy. Delievery was great, only 4 days from your place to mine in Toronto. (You have my address to send my commissions!) (haha) Jim

03-28-2011, 10:21 PM	#28
CarlG Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Anchorage, Alaska Posts: 9,115	Re: T-stat install Looks great, along with the alternator, plug wires, and down draft carb.