EOG's 1928 Model A Pickup

[Eccentric Old Guy]

I'll probably be bugging you guys with "newbie" questions from time to time. Hope you can put up with dumb "new guy" kind of stuff!

I purchased this 1928 Model A Pickup last month, and still waiting to see it in person. The shipping is dragging out for now.

I purchased from Vintage Motors of Glendale, CA on eBay. In the description, it lists this Model A as an older restoration in good mechanical and cosmetic condition, with a "B" engine.

What does "B" engine mean?

Also, I'm looking for any tips you might want to pass along for inspecting this vehicle, once it's finally here.

Thank you for any comments you might have.

Sincerely, odie, the eccentric old guy!

[john charlton]

Looks like a nice truck you will have to master the dark art of "double de clutching" My son has the same truck but not as pretty !!! The model "B" engine came into production in 1932 and is a direct bolt in swap . It is a better engine with a heavier crank which is pressure fed with oil not gravity like an "A" engine .Has more power as well .

John in lovely sunny lockdown Suffolk County England .

[rer_239]

Nice truck. Best advice join a local club!

[David R.]

If you are lucky enough to have a local club. I am in a model A desert.

[Joe K]

Model B intake manifold. Model A derived Tillotson X carburetor.

The difference between the Tilly X and an actual Model B carburetor would be noticeable in power. (The difference between 50 and 40) Since you're half way there (manifold) I would spring the $180 for a rebuilt B and put that one on.

Joe K

[daren007]

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I bought a A with B engine thinking I had the best of both worlds. By time it was over I was thousands poorer and the B went to the scrap. Just a heads up.

[walls]

Subscribe to the the monthly “banger” thread over on the H.A.M.B. for some interesting model A/B discussions.
There’s some knowledgeable guys who post on it, me not being one of them(knowledgeable).

The B engine has a slight advantage over the A in performance, better cam, intake,carb, maybe higher compression head??
Hopefully you have the B transmission as well, it would have synchronized 2nd and 3rd.

1.My recommendation is to purchase the Les Andrews book Vol. 1
That will help you get started with maintenance and getting familiar with your new pickup.

2.Go through the brakes, adjust them properly.
They can work well despite what a lot of people may say.

3.My opinion only and can understand if many disagree, put LED bulbs in your taillights.
They’re much brighter running and when braking, especially if you’re still 6v.
Also, if you have one taillight, add another on the passenger side.

Good luck

[chrs1961815]

Looks great!

B blocks are an advantage, but the problem is that many of them were and are cracked. But if yours runs fine, do not worry about it. But keep it in the back of your head.

Engine compartment looks great - looks like yoh have an original fan belt too.

[1930artdeco]

Welcome to the club! Here are my thoughts:


-Watch the seepage on the left side of the engine from the head gasket. Maybe a warped head/block or the gasket may be toast.


-I am assuming the front motor mount is a stock B mount. If not, then I am not sure what it is.


-If the fan is original-pull it. They have a habit of coming apart and damaging radiators/hoods and heads (yours)! New ones are aluminum original are steel.


-Change fluids drive her and get used to her idiosyncrasies.


Mike

[Eccentric Old Guy]

Thanks for the responses, gentlemen.....

Ahhh, I see......the "B" engine is a direct bolt up of a 1932 engine.....

At this point, I have no idea if I have a 1932 transmission to go with it. Would be nice to have that synchromesh in 2nd and 3rd gears, but I can get by with re-learning the double clutch thing. I actually had a 1930 Model A sport coupe almost 50 years ago, but for only 2-3 years before I sold it......I'm re-familiarizing myself on them now, as I find I have a great lapse of memory on driving the model A. I've been without a Model A since that time......although I've had several other antique cars over the years.

Unknown if it's been converted to 12v......whatever it is, I'll probably keep it that way.

I'm assuming the original bed had a wood floor, and this one looks like all metal.....that's fine with me. I'm not really a purist.....just someone who wants to enjoy a nice model A once in awhile. I believe I'll need a tool box for the bed.....are there any original reproductions available?.....If not, I'll just get one from a local supplier and bolt it on.

What's the best publication for general maintenance of the model A?.....and, where is it available?

Thanks for your help.......it is most appreciated!
odie, the eccentric old guy!

[Joe K]

Originally Posted by Eccentric Old Guy

I'm assuming the original bed had a wood floor, and this one looks like all metal.....that's fine with me. I'm not really a purist.....just someone who wants to enjoy a nice model A once in awhile.

My comments elsewhere on the bed wood floor:

The "bed boards" (those hardwood boards which make up the rear bed surface and are held by unusual metal "keeper strips" and unusual square bolts and washers) are shown in "The Ford Model A as Henry Built It" by DeAngelis on page 177. Mostly seen varnished today for appearance, they were usually painted quickly along with the bed - and the same color usually (but not always) green.

The bed boards are available from suppliers - I consider the price a little steep but they are hardwood. Ford used various woods including beech and birch, but probably maple would be strongest.

The keeper strips and center metal pan are available too - both in carbon steel and stainless. Also the unusual bolts with shallow carriage type heads and large square washers (one corner turned for alignment.)

Many use oak and stain/poly for appearance. As you say you're no prisoner to accuracy so you can do as you wish. An all metal floor does have advantage in that at least it is durable - the original floors mostly "gone" now.

Joe K
March '29 CC Pickup - type "H" lights, powerhouse generator, speedo escutcheon painted black - Henry didn't waste ANYTHING.

[Russ/40]

Congratulations on a very handsome looking truck. And a big Yayyyy on the color. Don't see many black ones. The B engine isn't a negative thing. It's only negative if terminally cracked, and the same holds true for A engines. Keep us up to date after it arrives, would love to know more.

[Jim Brierley]

Your front motor mount is a '34, much wider than '32 and a little wider than '33. The B does bolt in, with some modifications at the rear. e-mail me at jimb4e4@gmail and I'll send you the chapter in my book about installing a Bee in your A.

[CC-Mo]

Man that's a clean looking truck, congrats.

[30 Closed Cab PU]

Originally Posted by 1930artdeco

Welcome to the club! Here are my thoughts:


-Watch the seepage on the left side of the engine from the head gasket. Maybe a warped head/block or the gasket may be toast.


-I am assuming the front motor mount is a stock B mount. If not, then I am not sure what it is.


-If the fan is original-pull it. They have a habit of coming apart and damaging radiators/hoods and heads (yours)! New ones are aluminum original are steel.


-Change fluids drive her and get used to her idiosyncrasies.


Mike

Could try a re-torque of the head .


Am not familiar with using acorn head nuts, any chance they are bottoming out affecting the head torque?

[30 Closed Cab PU]

And welcome to the Barn, nice truck.


I also just noticed the gas in the fuel bowl looks iffy, red/orange.


If so, do not turn it over/start it till you clean out the tank and carb. Or if in a hurry to get it started, you can hang a small container with fresh gas from the hood rod and supply gas to that carb that way. You do not want to suck a bunch of varnish crud into the carb.


The operators manual is great, here is a link where you can down load a copy. Chocked full of info including how to start, maintenance, etc.
http://www.motormayhem.net/model-a-f...owners-manual/

[J Franklin]

My advice is not to start changing or adding things with maybe the exception of the fan blade if it is an original due to safety. make sure the gas and oil are fresh and buy an owners manual. Drive it like you love it and want it to last and it will give good service.
The head seepage should not be a worry as most do that due to capillary action through the gasket. you can make sure the head bolts have proper torque for peace of mind.

[CHuDWah]

Good looking truck - I always liked the "square" cab. FYI, pickups didn't come with rear bumpers. It's a sensible addition but if it was mine, I'd change to a full-width one to match the front - the split bumper was to clear a rear-mounted spare.

As for a toolbox, another option is one mounted on the running board - those were available as aftermarket "back in the day". Or some vendors used to sell one that mounted between the front frame horns. AFAIK, neither is currently available new but used ones can be found. Some folks have made their own.

[Joe K]

I have seen "tool boxes" that plug into the bed pockets and straddle the length of the bed above each side fender. A very practical arrangement thought I, sort of along the lines of a service body truck.

I thought I would make some in wood - with tilted tops to shed rain that hinge up to expose the "till." And hasp locks to keep the tools where you want them.

The pickups, more especially the 28-29 Closed Cab tend to benefit visually from "stake boards" on either side - the tool boxes would emulate this with a purpose.

Joe K

[GerryAllen]

1.My recommendation is to purchase the Les Andrews book Vol. 1, it is a must for a newby.
Gerry Birch Bay WA