The Ford Barn

A-Man · 07-26-2010, 10:39 PM

Since I experienced a problem in the rear end & differential on my 1930 Deluxe Coupe, necessitating the replacement of parts, and since I had the rear end pulled out from under the Model A, I decided to replace all the internal parts(bearings, gears, shafts, etc.)in the transmission. I have now installed all the parts, using RESTORER'S MODEL A SHOP MANUAL by Jim Schild and MODEL A FORD MECHANICS HANDBOOK by Les Andrews as my reference sources. I did use the "sealed" bearings, "baffles", "shafts with O-rings" and the "transmission shaft seal kit".
As I was assembling the transmission, I continually checked to make sure that everything turned freely in the case. However, after installing the front bearing retainer and rear bearing retainer, and torqued per the references, it became more difficult to turn the main shaft and main drive gear. At first I thought I had installed the "baffles" incorrectly, but that was not the case.
I should mention that I did install all the parts "dry", with very little lubricant used. Also, no "cluster gear thrust washers" were used.
Any ideas as to what the problem could be would be appreciated. Will the tight transmission loosen up after adding transmission oil and running it?
I earlier rebuilt the transmission in my 1930 Model A Pickup, again with all new internal parts, with no problems.
Thanks in advance for any and all suggestions.

Doug in NJ · 07-27-2010, 12:14 AM

Something is probably messed up. Without a modern lip-type seal at either end, everything should turn very easily. Put it in neutral and see whether the friction is in the input shaft or output shaft.

It's not like an engine with piston rings: there is nothing to be "tight" when it is freshly assembled.

Doug

pat in Santa Cruz · 07-27-2010, 12:47 AM

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are you sure you used the short needle bearing on the main shaft pilot?

If the baffles are installed backwards, they will rub the outer race of the bearings and could jam it somewhat.

Check the spacer to be sure it is pressed all the way up to the shoulder.

And finally, the latest batch of main shafts has the fillet radius at the pilot ground too large. The round spacer ring will not seat all the way against the shoulder of the main shaft. Even the short needle bearing will press against it when assembled and push the ring up the radius, causing it to bind. If you drive it, the clatter will sound like the whole thing is going to self destruct. I had this problem with 2 of them recently. I called Walt and he said the entire batch was made that way. We had to have the radius ground to match an original.

07-26-2010, 10:39 PM	#1
A-Man Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: NE Posts: 166	Tight Newly Rebuilt Transmission Since I experienced a problem in the rear end & differential on my 1930 Deluxe Coupe, necessitating the replacement of parts, and since I had the rear end pulled out from under the Model A, I decided to replace all the internal parts(bearings, gears, shafts, etc.)in the transmission. I have now installed all the parts, using RESTORER'S MODEL A SHOP MANUAL by Jim Schild and MODEL A FORD MECHANICS HANDBOOK by Les Andrews as my reference sources. I did use the "sealed" bearings, "baffles", "shafts with O-rings" and the "transmission shaft seal kit". As I was assembling the transmission, I continually checked to make sure that everything turned freely in the case. However, after installing the front bearing retainer and rear bearing retainer, and torqued per the references, it became more difficult to turn the main shaft and main drive gear. At first I thought I had installed the "baffles" incorrectly, but that was not the case. I should mention that I did install all the parts "dry", with very little lubricant used. Also, no "cluster gear thrust washers" were used. Any ideas as to what the problem could be would be appreciated. Will the tight transmission loosen up after adding transmission oil and running it? I earlier rebuilt the transmission in my 1930 Model A Pickup, again with all new internal parts, with no problems. Thanks in advance for any and all suggestions.

07-27-2010, 12:14 AM	#2
Doug in NJ Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Princeton, NJ Posts: 965	Re: Tight Newly Rebuilt Transmission Something is probably messed up. Without a modern lip-type seal at either end, everything should turn very easily. Put it in neutral and see whether the friction is in the input shaft or output shaft. It's not like an engine with piston rings: there is nothing to be "tight" when it is freshly assembled. Doug __________________ My '31 S/W sedan project:http://31ford.dougbraun.com My restoration diary: http://dougbraun.com/blog

07-27-2010, 12:47 AM	#3
pat in Santa Cruz Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: santa cruz, calif Posts: 2,011	Re: Tight Newly Rebuilt Transmission Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) are you sure you used the short needle bearing on the main shaft pilot? If the baffles are installed backwards, they will rub the outer race of the bearings and could jam it somewhat. Check the spacer to be sure it is pressed all the way up to the shoulder. And finally, the latest batch of main shafts has the fillet radius at the pilot ground too large. The round spacer ring will not seat all the way against the shoulder of the main shaft. Even the short needle bearing will press against it when assembled and push the ring up the radius, causing it to bind. If you drive it, the clatter will sound like the whole thing is going to self destruct. I had this problem with 2 of them recently. I called Walt and he said the entire batch was made that way. We had to have the radius ground to match an original.