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Old 01-12-2016, 07:55 AM   #1
roccaas
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Default How to read the Light switch diagram??

Looking at the schematics of the light switch at the bottom of the steering column (either in Les Andrew's book or the Lincoln Publishing cardboard schematic of the entire wiring system) ('30 with Cowl Light circuit)....

As I look down on the schematic, am I also looking DOWN onto the black bakelite light switch (from the perspective of the 3 button spider rotating across the dimples), OR am I looking UP at the bakelite black piece from the perspective of where the wires and female connectors lock into the male connectors as they cross into the light switch body?

I've got the headlamps all miswired, as well as the cowl light circuit (which I use to power a pair of aftermarket Cat Eye driving lamps). The cowls are used for turn signals (and they work fine) as do the brake/tail lights that light up at every position of: Driving, Low Beam, and High Beam.

I keep the lever on the steering wheel pointed South, and:

7:00 = Driving Lights
5:00 = Low Beam
4:00 = High Beam

(when the work correctly, which they are NOT doing now!) I feel like that old "Chico and the Man" episode where the older mechanic was trying to fix a Porsche and the light switch turned on the wipers, and the wiper switch sounded the horn.

I just can't figure out if I'm looking down at the diagram from the North Pole, or up from the South Pole?

Thanks
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Old 01-12-2016, 09:52 AM   #2
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Default Re: How to read the Light switch diagram??

looking at the schematic will get some of us confused. the light switch itself, and the wiring plate therein that the wires attach to, all have various index slots and tabs that give you only one correct position to put them in. you have to be sure, though, that the little bracket at the base of the steering column is installed in its correct position.
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Old 01-12-2016, 09:57 AM   #3
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Default Re: How to read the Light switch diagram??

ps my guess might be you have an assortment of repro parts at this junction and typically, repro parts have less-defined tabs, detents, slots, indents, etc.
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Old 01-12-2016, 10:01 AM   #4
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Default Re: How to read the Light switch diagram??

Actually, an original plate from Berts as well as a vintage housing. Only the wiring is newer.

Also, the bracket is in the correct position.
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Old 01-12-2016, 11:08 AM   #5
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Default Re: How to read the Light switch diagram??

Disconnect the 3 wires at the switch, driving, high and low. Use a test light to see which terminal is live in each position and reconnect the wires accordingly. Simples.
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Old 01-12-2016, 11:12 AM   #6
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Default Re: How to read the Light switch diagram??

your high/low beams are reversed, I assume those wires that hook up to the headlamp are backwards. are you using the original-type connection or did you wire them straight through?
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Old 01-12-2016, 12:20 PM   #7
BILL WILLIAMSON
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Default Re: How to read the Light switch diagram??

On '30's & '31's, remember that there are 2 different lighting looms, depending on whether the car came originally with COWL lights or not.
Minerva came with the WRONG loom & it took a lot of diddling around to get all the lights working proper, without changing to the PROPER loom.
Some Mickey Mouse Electrician had even strung EXTRA wires, to "try" to fix it!!! In the beginning, The lever positions were: PARK, OFF, LOW & LOW. "they" even strung EXTRA wires from the cowl light take off wire, clean up to BOTH headlights & loomed it up nicely with PLASTIC tape---WHAT A MESS!
Bill Fixed It
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Old 01-12-2016, 03:37 PM   #8
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Default Re: How to read the Light switch diagram??

Do these help any?
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Light Switch positions.jpg (33.9 KB, 77 views)
File Type: jpg Light Switch wiring.jpg (48.2 KB, 78 views)
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Old 01-12-2016, 05:13 PM   #9
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Default Re: How to read the Light switch diagram??

Thanks for the Marco pictures~~worth their weight in castle nuts!

Every wire is in its correct location~~ HOWEVER; the dimple that activates the Cowl lights (Driving Lights on my car) has pushed down into the bakelite as the bakelite has gotten older and developed minor cracks. The "pimples" on the switch were not able to contact that particular dimple, hence the circuit wouldn't get power.

JB PlasticWeld to the rescue, and the dimple is now co-planar with the rest of the surface.

Thank you folks!
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