'32 toeboard ?

[Lazy Jake]

What did Henry do to plug/cover the two large gaps that are on the left and right side of the stock toeboard? I can come up with something but, curious as to what was there.

[Kahuna]

Lazy Jake
I have wondered the same.
At one time, I believe that Bruce Lancaster posted what was originally put there, but I can't remember what it was?
Maybe he will see this and comment, or, Davig G may respond, as he is one of the 32 experts.
Jim

[DavidG]

Felt strips tacked to the ends.

[Lazy Jake]

Thanks, David. I have a metal (United Pacific) toeboard and the gap there is big enough to let water off the front wheels through. A lot of water. I'm thinking a piece of sheet metal screwed to the toeboard will do the trick.

[jerseyboy]

Here is a PDF of an old article, regarding floor boards, from the V-8 Times by Mr Cole.

Keep V-8ing and 4 banging!

[glennpm]

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Thanks David and jerseyboy!

Great info. Wonderful that we have such an informed and helpful group.

[rbullockv8]

Originally Posted by jerseyboy

Here is a PDF of an old article, regarding floor boards, from the V-8 Times by Mr Cole.

Keep V-8ing and 4 banging!

Thanks, jerseyboy! I haven't seen this article before. Wish I'd had it for reference when I made a new #1 board, and especially when I tried to fit those metal plates without a good floorboard as a template. Man, that took me hours! I used a metal nibbler to expand the pedal slots as needed--and they needed quite a bit. Also, one of the metal plate holes didn't line up with the firewall floor screw holes, so I had to move it over about 1/2". Of course, my pickup is different from a passenger car, so maybe that was part of the problem.

Regardless, it's super interesting to read this now that I've gone through the experience. I know exactly what he's talking about! And...I have gaps on each side of my footboard, too. Hoping the mat or carpet used will seal these somewhat.

[jerseyboy]

The felt strips and tacks are sold buy Roy Nacwicz:

http://www.fordscript.com/

Keep V-8ing and 4-banging!

[Lazy Jake]

Thanks for all the replys. I down loaded the PDF, jerseyboy. And, even though I am running a steel #1 and #2 floorboard, I can use the plans as a guide for filling the gaps.

[PeteVS]

Some of the reproduction floor boards have the reliefs in the back put in by use of a router. The original boards that were in my brother's '32 appear to have been cut by a very large "dado" blade. I was able to approximate that look by using a common hand held circular saw. I set the saw to the depth of the recess and measure the distance from the blade to the four edges of the saw's shoe. Next, I drew an outline of the recess and then built a small fence on the four sides, each side away from the outline by the various blade to shoe dimensions. Next, I positioned the saw at each of the sides of the fence and made a full depth cut from the rear fence to the front fence. Next, I set the blade about 1/16" deep and was able to move the saw back and forth and side to side until I had made a cut that covered the entire outline. I then set the cut deeper, made another cut and repeated until the I had the entire recess cut out. This is a not quite the use for which the saw was intended, so I'd recommend that the utmost in eye, face and other body part protection be employed.

[Bored&Stroked]

That PDF article was a good read! I have original floor boards in my 32 Cabriolet - the #1 board has the larger round hole, with a cover plate, and the steel support brackets for the #2 board underneath . . . guess that was early 32. Kind of fun to have original stuff - gives me something to look at and ponder. (And they're in the car.).

[jerseyboy]

Originally Posted by PeteVS

Some of the reproduction floor boards have the reliefs in the back put in by use of a router. The original boards that were in my brother's '32 appear to have been cut by a very large "dado" blade. I was able to approximate that look by using a common hand held circular saw. I set the saw to the depth of the recess and measure the distance from the blade to the four edges of the saw's shoe. Next, I drew an outline of the recess and then built a small fence on the four sides, each side away from the outline by the various blade to shoe dimensions. Next, I positioned the saw at each of the sides of the fence and made a full depth cut from the rear fence to the front fence. Next, I set the blade about 1/16" deep and was able to move the saw back and forth and side to side until I had made a cut that covered the entire outline. I then set the cut deeper, made another cut and repeated until the I had the entire recess cut out. This is a not quite the use for which the saw was intended, so I'd recommend that the utmost in eye, face and other body part protection be employed.

Pete,

I had thought about doing it this way, but a friend had a dado setup and It went pretty quick. I recall the radius of the cut being 8".

Keep V8ing and 4 banging!