The Ford Barn

Forder · 04-27-2020, 06:15 PM

I had a quarter panel replaced on my 1966 mustang fastback. Since that happened I've had issues with the tire rubbing the quarter if I hit a large bump. I'm trying to determine the source so I can fix it. It does not rub on the side with the original quarter panel, only the side with the new quarter panel.

There is a flat lip that runs all around the opening for the rear wheel. This flat lip on the reproduction quarter panel is 1 1/4" That same lip on the other quarter panel, which is a original quarter panel is 7/8". Can someone measure their mustang that has original quarters and tell me which is correct ? Attached are pictures.

Also that lip on the original quarter panel is flat/parallel to the ground/tire. The lip on the new quarter has a slight angle to it. Which is correct ? Attached are pictures

I'm also trying to determine if my rear springs are sagging. Measuring from the middle of the wheel. From the ground straight up to that lip I referred to earlier is 25" on my car. Does anybody know what that measurement would have been on a brand new stock 1966 v8 mustang ?

If my rear springs are a issue, where is the best place for replacements ?

KULTULZ · 04-27-2020, 06:44 PM

Quote:

I'm also trying to determine if my rear springs are sagging. Measuring from the middle of the wheel. From the ground straight up to that lip I referred to earlier is 25" on my car. Does anybody know what that measurement would have been on a brand new stock 1966 v8 mustang ?

You are referring to TRIM HEIGHT. Without a frame machine, measure off a perfectly level concrete slab/floor. Measure the distance(s) between the floor and a spot on the bottom frame rail before and after the rear axle housing. Both rear sides should measure the same height.

Bad rear leafs, a twisted frame, sagging front suspension and/or front aprons can also throw this off.

Lanny · 04-28-2020, 04:41 PM

I had a quarter panel replaced on my 1966 mustang fastback. Since that happened I've had issues with the tire rubbing the quarter if I hit a large bump. I'm trying to determine the source so I can fix it. It does not rub on the side with the original quarter panel, only the side with the new quarter panel.

There is a flat lip that runs all around the opening for the rear wheel. This flat lip on the reproduction quarter panel is 1 1/4" That same lip on the other quarter panel, which is a original quarter panel is 7/8". Can someone measure their mustang that has original quarters and tell me which is correct ? Attached are pictures.

Also that lip on the original quarter panel is flat/parallel to the ground/tire. The lip on the new quarter has a slight angle to it. Which is correct ? Attached are pictures
================================================== ====

Well, your original 1/4 panel is correct, 7/8" wide lip, and is parallel to the tire.
The wheel opening lip on your aftermarket 1/4 panel is just plain wrong, with
a 1 1/4" lip and should NOT be at an angle, it's no wonder it rubs your tire.

.

flatrod · 04-29-2020, 01:26 PM

I have a factory Ford nos fastback quarter panel hanging on the wall, the lip on it measures 3/4 and of course is not angled down. I know you have paint on it but it can be ground back to meet the inter wheel tub lip, may not be anything you can do about the angle now.

rotorwrench · 04-29-2020, 05:39 PM

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Sheet metal parts generally always need some work to get them to be "like original" and many times it can be very difficult to fit some of the crap that's out there. The installer should have checked this stuff and adjusted it (if possible) prior to paint work. I always make sure everything fits before I paint anything.

If the adjustment would mean just grinding an edge to match OEM then it can be sanded or ground to that spec but it will have to be done so as not to burn or damage the finish you want to keep. The edge can be touched up with a brush if it's not where it can be easily seen. The main thing is to keep corrosion at bay. If the part can't be adjusted then you have a real problem. I can't tell much by the photos.

04-28-2020, 04:41 PM	#3
Lanny Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Mn Posts: 2,410	Re: 1966 Mustang quarter panel issue I had a quarter panel replaced on my 1966 mustang fastback. Since that happened I've had issues with the tire rubbing the quarter if I hit a large bump. I'm trying to determine the source so I can fix it. It does not rub on the side with the original quarter panel, only the side with the new quarter panel. There is a flat lip that runs all around the opening for the rear wheel. This flat lip on the reproduction quarter panel is 1 1/4" That same lip on the other quarter panel, which is a original quarter panel is 7/8". Can someone measure their mustang that has original quarters and tell me which is correct ? Attached are pictures. Also that lip on the original quarter panel is flat/parallel to the ground/tire. The lip on the new quarter has a slight angle to it. Which is correct ? Attached are pictures ================================================== ==== Well, your original 1/4 panel is correct, 7/8" wide lip, and is parallel to the tire. The wheel opening lip on your aftermarket 1/4 panel is just plain wrong, with a 1 1/4" lip and should NOT be at an angle, it's no wonder it rubs your tire. . __________________ If mama ain't happy, ain't nobody happy. But if daddy ain't happy...RUN

04-29-2020, 01:26 PM	#4
flatrod Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2012 Location: Anchorage Alaska Posts: 290	Re: 1966 Mustang quarter panel issue I have a factory Ford nos fastback quarter panel hanging on the wall, the lip on it measures 3/4 and of course is not angled down. I know you have paint on it but it can be ground back to meet the inter wheel tub lip, may not be anything you can do about the angle now.

04-29-2020, 05:39 PM	#5
rotorwrench Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: San Antonio, Texas Posts: 16,422	Re: 1966 Mustang quarter panel issue Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) Sheet metal parts generally always need some work to get them to be "like original" and many times it can be very difficult to fit some of the crap that's out there. The installer should have checked this stuff and adjusted it (if possible) prior to paint work. I always make sure everything fits before I paint anything. If the adjustment would mean just grinding an edge to match OEM then it can be sanded or ground to that spec but it will have to be done so as not to burn or damage the finish you want to keep. The edge can be touched up with a brush if it's not where it can be easily seen. The main thing is to keep corrosion at bay. If the part can't be adjusted then you have a real problem. I can't tell much by the photos.